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(Does Grace look familiar? She should! She's the Flattops logo.)

For many women, there's something about a rag doll that brings back fond memories and perhaps is comforting in a way. I wanted to take a doll for my mastectomies surgery, but was informed that people at the hospital would think it strange--so self-consciousness set in and I didn't. And guess what? Once there, I wished I had. For a subsequent surgery, I did take along a rag doll. From across the room, I could see her and she reminded me of the comforts of home.

Even though I've always collected and liked dolls, one thing that helped me feel normal after my surgeries was noticing they were as flat-chested as I was, and yet still wore smiles. Grace is the special doll I created for women to make for other women; especially for women with upcoming surgeries, chemotherapy, radiation, or other medical treatments. There's something special about having something made for you, a special "bosom buddy" that someone lovingly made.

Grace is a simple, old-fashioned cloth doll with "little girl" proportions (an oversized head and hands that can't touch above it). You can make her look like your friend (or yourself). Please don't make her in pink just because of the symbolism . . . unless your friend loves pink.

A note on printing: Make sure your printer is not scaling the images up or down. Print them exactly as they appear.

What You'll Need for the Doll

Supplies

The stiches used to make Grace are:

Finally, use blush (just normal people blush) to color the cheeks. This may be touched up after completing Grace.

1) Cut out all the pieces, following the quantity needed and fabric recommended on the pattern piece.

2) Sew center back seam of center back head. This more rounded back head (a bit different than the traditional rag doll) allows for wigs and chemo caps and is important for Grace. Although it may look a little intimidating compared to the traditional rag doll, it's just one extra step and is not difficult to do.

3) Sew head neck seam to torso neck seam for front and back of doll.

4) Beginning on one bottom edge of torso and leaving entire bottom of torso open, sew torso/head front to torso/head back.

5) Sew arms together, leaving top straight edge open.

6) For all four leg sets, sew foot to sock, and then sock to leg. Be careful to sew two pairs--two pieces should have the feet going one way, two the other.

7) Leaving top straight edge open, sew legs together.

8) Clip corners (not to stitching--muslin frays easily) and turn all pieces right side out. Stuff legs up to seam of sock. Manipulate the leg so that the seam runs down the middle front, and (by hand) sew (with doubled thread) leg front to leg back to make leg "knee" to make leg flop at the knee.

9) Do the same for the arms at about mid-point--be sure to factor in the seam allowance (you may wish to turn in 1/4" first before measuring the mid-point). Drawing on (with pencil) the mid-point before stuffing the arm makes it easier to see where it is after stuffing is added.

10) Finish stuffing all pieces. I have made dolls from professional patterns only to be disappointed as the neck weakened and ultimately became floppy. It's important to stuff the neck as well as possible. If you're at all in doubt about your ability to do this, many people like to insert reinforcement for the neck in rag dolls. This could be a craft stick or wood dowel, and is optional and not recommended for play dolls. Stuff the tops of arms and legs lightly so that they are more floppy than the rest of the doll (this is important to remember so the doll can be moved).

11) Turn in 1/4" the top of legs. The torso bottom gets folded in a full 1".

12) Hand-sew, using doubled thread, legs on using a whipstitch. When sewing on the legs, hold torso upside down, put legs with toes pointing toward face, and sew through all layers, helping to make a "crease" in this area so Grace will sit easily. This is easier to do if you pin the legs and torso closed first.

13) On each arm, turn in 1/4" seam allowance and, keeping the arm open, use a running stitch all the way around and cinch it up.

14) Hand-sew arms on with doubled thread, using a ladder stitch and going around just the very tip. Arms are sewn with the thumbs pointing down, and should be sewn in a way that they are floppy at the shoulder area. This is why they are gathered, rather than being sewn directly on.

Grace is all done! Although she would likely like some clothing.

Chain 4. Join with slip stitch, creating a ring.

You will be crocheting "in the round." It helps to mark your current row with a homemade yarn marker.

Round 1: Into the center of the ring, double crochet 9 stitches.

Round 2: 2DC (double crochet two stitches) into the first stitch, 1DC in next 2; repeat around. (12 stitches total.)

Round 3: 2DC around. (24 stitches total.)

Round 4: DC around. (24 stitches total.)

Round 5: 2DC into first stitch, DC in next 2; repeat. (32 stitches total.)

Round 6: DC around. (32 stitches total.)

Round 7: DC in next 3 stitches, 2DC in next 1; repeat around.

Round 8: DC around.

Round 9: SC (single crochet) in first 3 stitches, SC2tog (decrease); repeat to end.

Round 10 (adds scallops): SC5 in first stitch, skip 1, repeat around.

Cut yarn, loop through, and weave in ends.

Note: All the following wigs can be affixed permanently for a doll with attached hair. Use the yarn and a sharp tapestry needle, going around the outside circumference and sewing it to the doll's head. It also helps to tack it down in a few random places.

Chain 4. Join with slip stitch, creating a ring.

You will be crocheting "in the round." It helps to mark your current row with a homemade yarn marker.

Round 1: Into the center of the ring, double crochet 9 stitches.

Round 2: 2DC (double crochet two stitches) into the first stitch, DC1 in next 2; repeat around. (12 stitches total.)

Round 3: 2DC around. (24 stitches total.)

Round 4: DC around. (24 stitches total.)

Round 5: 2DC into first stitch, DC in next 2; repeat. (32 stitches total.)

Round 6: DC around. (32 stitches total.)

Round 7: DC in next 3 stitches, 2DC in next 1; repeat around.

Round 8: SC (single crochet) around.

Round 9: SC in first 3 stitches, SC2tog (decrease); repeat to end.

Round 10: SC around.

Cut yarn, loop through, and weave in ends.

You can keep it like this for a short wig or to represent hair just growing in. However, it's fun to create other styles as well. Below are a couple of ideas to get you started.

Making a doll wig is easy. All you do is "rug loops" (see image at right)--with the desired length of yarn--through the various holes left in the crocheted wig cap. A crochet hook helps. You can put hair in sparsely since this is a rag doll. After getting as much yarn on as desired, you can trim the hair to a specific style . . . although the tousled various-length look fits nicely with a rag doll. The wig pictured here only had bangs cut. This style can have so many different looks! Here is another one:

Make the wig cap as above. With a ponytail wig, yarn is added strategically. Put very long strands of yarn all along the outside stitches around the circumference of the wig (with the "stitch" outlined above) and a line about 2" wide down the entire direct center. Do this more densely than with the wig style above.

Divide the "hair" down the center, drawing half over to one side and toward the neck. Right by the neck, pull hair straight and then tie it all together with a piece of like-colored yarn.

Do the same for the other side. Clip pieces to be somewhat even; but clip only up to about three pieces at a time (otherwise, the yarn looks too bluntly cut).

If desired, add some decorative ribbons, which you can change to match the outfit.

1) Draw on lines for elastic on lower legs. Then, sew center front.

2) Open pantaloons and press seam open with an iron.

3) To create waistband, iron in 1/8", then a bit over 1/4".

4) Sew close to first fold to create an elastic casing.

5) Hem legs by ironing up 1/8" and then 1/4" and sewing close to first fold.

6) Sew elastic directly to legs on the elastic placement lines (on the wrong side of the fabric, of course). Pull elastic as you stitch.

7) Attach 6" of elastic to a safety pin and use the safety pin to guide the elastic through the waistband. Sew each edge of the casing to hold elastic in place.

8) Sew center back.

9) Re-fold pantaloons and sew leg/crotch seam.

This very simple dress design is especially for people (like me) who don't like making buttonholes! It's very easy to make.

1) Begin by preparing the sleeves. Draw on the line for elastic (for step 2). On bottom of sleeve, turn up 1/8" and then 1/4", iron, and sew close to first fold.

2) Sew elastic directly to wrong side of sleeves, stretching as you go.

3) You will now make a long line: sleeve curve to dress curve to sleeve curve to dress curve. Do not connect all of these--keep them as a long line.

4) On neck edge, turn in 1/8" and then a bit more than 1/4", and sew, creating a casing for elastic.

5) Cut 4 1/2" of elastic. Attach a safety pin and use it to guide the elastic through the casing. Tack on both edges to secure the elastic.

6) Sew last sleeve curve to dress curve.

7) Fold dress, wrong sides out, together, and sew one arm and one side seam. Leave other side unsewn for now.

7) For bottom hem, fold up 1/8" and then 1/4". Iron.

8) Unfold hem and sew second arm/side seam.

9) Fold hem back up, and stitch by machine or by hand.

The dress goes on the doll feet first.

1) After cutting out the apron piece, transfer the embroidery guide markings ("Grace" and the flowers) with a pencil.

2) You will also need an apron tie. Cut a piece of fabric that measures 1 1/4" x 22".

3) On bottom of apron, turn under 1/8" and then 1/8". Iron. Do the same on the sides of apron.

4) Sew over the turned in edges (do not sew the top of the apron).

5) Gather the top raw edge of the apron piece until it measures 3" across.

6) Center the apron on the tie piece. The tie works as seen in the image at right. Sew right side to right side (front of apron) with a 1/4" seam allowance.

7) Fold the apron tie in half the long way so that the right sides face one another, and sew both ends and the raw edge of the tie (right sides together), except for the area where the apron piece is. This will be hand sewn next.

8) Clip corners. Turn the apron tie right side out and iron it flat, ironing in the seam allowance where the apron piece is.

9) Sandwiching the apron top edge inside of the tie, hand ladder stitch the back part of the apron to the tie.

10) Using hand stitches, add the embroidered design to Grace's apron. Two threads are used; the flowers are a stem stitch, and the letters in the word "GRACE" are a small running stitch. You may, of course, change this to a favorite saying, Bible verse, or other message of love.

Who can make Grace?

Note: Dolls may only be given away (or kept). The patterns and dolls cannot be sold. Because of construction, this doll is not for small children.

+ To make an extra special doll, you may wish to use all natural materials. The doll featured here was made completely with cotton (thread, fabric, embroidery floss) and wool (hair and stuffing). However, be sure to inquire first, because some people are allergic to wool.