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The Choro Trek Canyon Palca |
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The Choro Trek
A Three-Day Hike To Los Yugas
By Patricia Muse
Although long and rigorous, the Choro trek, stretching from Bolivia's mountain peaks to the steaming Yungas, allows hikers to view stone houses in the Altiplano, crystalline rivers nestled in lush, green valleys, monkeys swinging from one tree to another and eagles soaring above forest covered mountains. For the three-day journey, most carry both winter and summer clothing, medical supplies and a good camera not only to capture breathtaking sites, but also to prove to friends and relatives that you survived the jarring descents and exhausting climbs.
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It is almost certain that La Paz will be your starting point. The highest capital in the world is an amazing sight: a metropolis sprawling across a 5km-wide bowl etched into the Altiplano, surrounded by the peaks of the Cordillera Real. Like a sentinel, snow-covered Mount Illimani (20,998 ft/6,402 m) rises imperiously in the distance. As with most large cities, La Paz is affected by horn-honking traffic, jostling people and poverty. But there is an escape for the city-weary - one that takes you out of the conurbation and into an unspoilt canyon connecting rural villages.
This hike takes a little planning. You will need transport to Huni and back from Palca as both villages have little accommodation for travelers. The cheapest option is to catch a bus but be sure to check the running times back from Palca. A more expensive but easier option is to hire a taxi for the day: it will cost around US$50. If you don't speak much Spanish, the simplest way is to book one through the tourist office. They can arrange for the driver to take you on the 1 hour journey from the center of La Paz to Huni, then wait for you in Palca for the journey back to the city.
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The Choro trek, Bolivia's premiere hike, climbs to the Chucura pass at 4,650 meters above sea level and descends to the village of Chairo in Los Yungas at 1.400m. Along the way, the hike offers a rare opportunity to absorb Bolivia's vast differences in climate and culture in just three days.
Day One
To begin, a large fruit truck from Villa Fatima will leave you at the cumbre which is the highest point on the La Paz - Coroico Highway. When you see the statue of Christ, that's your signal to get off the truck and begin your walk with the traditional Bolivian challa - offering the statue a silent
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Huni is a small collection of houses surrounded by fields and wandering sheep and donkeys. After confirming the pick-up arrangements with the taxi driver, simply take the main track through the village. Although it is hard to get lost, there are no signs or information boards. This is not a National Park, which also means no entrance fees, no parking lots and no crowds. In fact, it would be extremely surprising if you see another Westerner here. You pass traditional Indian houses among a patchwork of green fields and clumps of whispering trees as the track meanders and descends. Imposing Illimani forms a fantastic backdrop, a few clouds clinging to its summit like white candy-floss |
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Continue along the stony floor of the canyon. Eventually, an unmade track appears on your left near some mud houses. It leads away from the riverbed and into picturesque scenes from the past. The villagers tend their fields of crops and livestock, surrounded by the imposing canyon (see main photograph). A few huts are scattered among the trees. There is no machinery to be seen. No telephone or power lines. No clue that this is the 21st century. |
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After breakfast drive from La Paz to San Fransisco Mine passing trough the beautiful Palca Canyon. After the animals are packed, star the up hill walk to the mountain pass at 4630m/15187ft reached in 1 � hours. From the pass you will see the Mururata mountain. Reach the Estancia Takesi after 2 � hours and the campsite at Kakapi after another 3 hours. Along the way you might see the hukumari spectabled bear and condors. (B,L,D) Hike down towards the abandoned Chojlla mine (in 3 hours) and head into the painteresque village of Yanacachi, our final destination. Overnight at Hotel Panorama.(B,L,) Yanachaci ligt boven Chulumani. Soon you will approach the small community of Palca, but there's no need to rush. Take your time, stop and admire the incredible scenery. Your driver will be waiting for you, possibly slumped over his wheel asleep as ours was! Driving along twisting roads, you pass Huni, and a bit later the outskirts of La Paz. The modern world will be waiting, its gateway the golden arches of a McDonald's restaurant. |
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Although the descent along colored stones stings the toes and rattles the knees, fresh mountain air and the view of rushing rivers lift the spirits and give you energy to continue as do the occasional chats with campesinos who almost always ask for either a piece of candy or a bit of change. The small village of Chucura 3,900 meters above sea a level is easily recognizable by the stone houses with straw roofs. In the rainy season from |
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Protesters Oust President
A week of protests and violent repression in Bolivia ended on October 17 with the resignation of President Gonzalo S�nchez de Lozada. The repression left some 70 people dead between October 12 and 17 in a fifth straight week of protests against a plan to export Bolivian gas to the United States and other economic policies.
At least 26 people were killed and nearly 100 people were wounded in El Alto on October 12 as military troops used tanks, tear gas, rubber bullets and gunfire in an effort to disperse protesters and allow fuel trucks from the nearby Senkata fuel refinery to get through to El Alto and La Paz. The dead included one soldier, who according to witnesses was executed by his commanding officer for refusing orders to fire on demonstrators. More than 100 people were arrested. In Caracollo, Oruro department, troops fired tear gas and bullets at a peaceful campesino march along the highway that links the departmental capital, Oruro, to La Paz. A young girl was wounded by a bullet in the leg. (El Diario (La Paz) 10/13/03; Permanent Assembly for Human Rights of Bolivia (APDHB) 10/12/03; Washington Office on Latin America (WOLA) 10/15/03)
On the evening of October 12, Bolivian Workers Central (COB) executive secretary Jaime Solares and Only Union Confederation of Bolivian Campesino Workers (
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The small village of Chucura 3,900 meters above sea a level is easily recognizable by the stone houses with straw roofs. In the rainy season from November to April you may find the air a bit chilling and the ground in Chucura a bit too wet for camping: the option of spending the night in the school there for l.5bs may become more inviting. Whatever your decision, the river is close by for drink and for cooking. Some recommend taking water purification tablets as human and animal life does exist throughout the length of the trail and contamination of rivers and streams can occur. |
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