The Scottish sun streamed in the hotel window, gently nudging my eyes awake. I got out of bed and looked out the window as the sun rose over Edinburgh Castle. Normally at 6:30 a.m. my eyes would be sealed shut, but the castle, set on a massive bed of volcanic rock, is as inviting at daybreak as it is forbidding at night. I watched the sun rise for about 15 minutes before a car horn from the street below jolted me from my reverie.

After breakfast on The Royal Mile at
Always Sunday--Scottish smoked salmon (which I can never have enough of), scrambled eggs, walnut bread, and tea--I walked over to
St. Mary's RC Cathedral, where my great-grandparents James Boyle and Mary O'Donnell were married in the year 1900. When it was built in 1886 the cathedral was a sign that times had changed. Earlier Catholic chapels had had been attacked and burned down by anti-Irish, anti-Catholic mobs. With the erection of St. Mary's, Catholics could finally practice without fear of reprisal.

Cousin John picked me up at the hotel and we drove out the M8, which travels due west to Broxburn and Uphall. Broxburn is known for two things:
Glenmorangie whiskey and mining, specifically, coal, iron, and shale. As we approached Broxburn, what look like a series of reddish hills rose in the distance. Those hills are called shale bings. Although they are pretty, they are nothing but a heap of waste. Before the US oil boom, in the mid-19th century Glaswegian chemist James "Paraffin" Young found a way to extract oil, or paraffin, from shale and use it in products ranging from lighting and heating to industrial lubricants. As a result of his discovery, the shale mining industry sprang up in Broxburn, and where virtually nothing existed before, a company town now lay. Rigs were installed and row upon row of miners' cottages were built. That boom was the impetus for the emigration of my grandmother's farming family, the Boyles, from Donegal to Scotland in the 1880s.

Almost all of my male Boyle relatives who left Glenties, Donegal, at that time moved to Broxburn or neighboring Bathgate. My great-grandfather James Boyle was a shale miner, as was his twin brother Neal and his other brothers Dennis and Patrick, also twins. My grandmother, Nanny M, was born there in 1904. Her family and all the Boyle brothers lived in a miners' community called Holygate. Nanny attended the local church, SS John Cantius and Nicholas, and school across from her house. Shale mining was hard work, but the men earned a good living. The good times, however, didn't last forever. By the late 1920s the boom was over, falling victim to the lower cost of petroleum, and many of the Boyle men went to America to look for work. Unfortunately, their arrival coincided with the onset of the Great Depression.
Before mining, shale is blue. Once the oil is extracted, all that remains is rock, which turns reddish from the high concentration of sulfur beneath it. Ecologists have found the bings valuable as study sites for wildlife habitats and vegetation, but there are also environmental hazards. Waste materials seep into the groundwater and have the potential to ignite. Following the European trend of greening--at which Europeans are light years ahead of the US in that area--the Scots have begun reclaiming the bings. The rock, which is useful in road laying, is being blasted and shipped to countries like Germany.
As we drove down the main street into Broxburn, which stretches about half a mile, John said the area is undergoing a period of rapid growth and even expansion, as Edinburgh becomes larger and the surrounding areas become bedroom communities. Broxburn is only about 12 miles west of the city and lies on the main road into town. That makes it attractive to commuters, and since the road continues west to Glasgow, even those who work there find it a viable place to live.

"That's the house your grandmother was born in," John said. John has a strong Scottish burr that sounds just like my grandmother's. John is my mother's first cousin (or my first cousin once removed, if you like), now in his 60s and retired. He was an engineer for British Petroleum for many years and lived 10 years in Saudi Arabia. "It used to be One Society Place," he said, "but now it's a completely different road and house number." I tried to picture Nanny M and her 7 brothers and sisters living in this one modest cottage in Holygate. "See that shed?" said John, pointing to a row of recycling bins. "That was my father's garden at one time."

Without John I wouldn't have had a clue where to look. SS John Cantius and Nicholas Church is still standing after more than 100 years. Everyone in the family was baptized or married there. We went inside and had a look around. Compared with other Catholic churches it's simple.
"The school where your gran went used to be right behind the church," said John. "But that's all gone. It's all row houses now."

"Could we go to the cemetery?" I asked. I wanted to see where my great-grandfather was buried.
"Of course," he said, "but I have to tell you...there's no headstone."
"Really?" I said. "What kind of marker is there?"
"Well," he said, "there's nothing. I only discovered it recently because I got a space in the family plot and went to check it out. I'd never visited before."
At Uphall Cemetery, off East Main Street, indeed there was no headstone, only dirt.
"I don't know why there's no headstone," John said. "I just think there was no money."
Broxburn is named after a canal (Brock's Burn) that runs parallel to the main road. It's still there to this day.
John asked what else I'd like to see.
"Nanny always used to joke that she was the
other Mary, Queen of Scots. Is Linlithgow Palace far?"
"Oh not at all," he said. "It's just a wee bit up the road."
We drove through Winchburgh, which also has shale bings, to Linlithgow. For many years Linlithgow was the county town. Now all the government buildings are being moved to
Livingston, a new town (or planned community as it's known in the US), about 15 miles south of Broxburn.
Linlithgow Palace, where Mary, Queen of Scots was born to King James V and Marie de Guise in 1542, is a modest building for a royal residence. It now lies in ruins. Mary never saw her father, as he was across the Firth of Forth in Fyfe at the time of her birth and died 6 days later, at which time she became queen (with a regent, of course).

After Linlithgow we drove to South Queensferry, which overlooks the
Firth of Forth, and is spanned by the spectacular Victorian
Forth Bridge. We ate at the Hawes Inn, where Robert Louis Stevenson was inspired to write the novel
Kidnapped. The inn still had the character of an 18th-century public house but is clearly a modern inn. I had a ploughman's lunch of ham, cheese, apple, tomato, and chutney.

John drove me back to Edinburgh along the busy motorway. When I was a wee lad, Nanny M always told me stories of Scotland. In my mind it was romantic, misty valleys and tall green hills with fortresses and, of course, the Loch Ness Monster. And it is, in some ways, romantic. Now, though, as elsewhere, history is being paved over. But, as Nanny M always used to say, "What's afore ye canny go past ye."
Labels: ancestry, Europe, family, food, genealogy, photos, pubs, scotland, travel, vacation, water
Continue reading...