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roman blind


project:   roman blinds

room:      jane and katie's room

date:       april 16-17, 2005

labor:      approx 12 hours plus 8 hours of research on the internet

budget:

place purchased       item quantity price total cost
Fabricana Fabric (meters) 2.5 12.98 32.45
  Blackout Material (meters) 2.2 7.98 17.56
  Cording (by the foot) 40 0.10 4.00
  Rings 20 0.19 3.80
  Thread 1 3.89 3.89
  Sewing Machine Needles 1 4.99 4.99
  Velcro (meters) 1.3 7.98 10.37
  Cleat 1 2.98 2.98
Home Depot 1" x 3" Board 1 6.98 6.98
  Doweling 5 0.78 3.90
  Weight Rod 1 1.47 1.47
Borrowed Drill     0.00
  Screws     0.00
  Sewing Machine     0.00
         
      Subtotal 92.39
      Taxes 12.93
      TOTAL 105.32

comments:

  • NOT A PROJECT FOR INEXPERIENCED SEWERS (like me)!!!! 

  • It took me about 8 hours of looking at different patterns and ways of constructing the blind on the internet.  These are the sites that I read in detail and based my plan on:

            http://www.hutchal.clara.net/curtains/roman.htm

            http://www.terrelldesigns.com/plain_shades.htm

  • The Terrell Designs website had the most explicit information and you can also order the supplies from there if you don't have easy access to them.  It goes into great detail about how to design your blind, do all the measurements, and make the mounting fixture.  The only part I didn't like was gluing the doweling to the shade.  I decided to sew mine in instead. 

  • After reading everything and deciding that I could do a better job myself, I decided to make my own pattern and develop my own sewing techniques.

  • I made a very detailed drawing of the shade with all the measurements, took that to the fabric store and got everything I needed with the assistance of a VERY helpful store clerk.

  • I started by cutting the outside material with a 1 inch seam allowance.  I was doing an outside mount, so the blind was to extend 1 inch on either side of the window frame and was 4 inches taller than the window frame. 

  • Then, I carefully measured the blackout material so that I could sew the doweling pockets directly into the blackout material before I attached it to the outer material.  I wanted to skip the step of sewing the front material and the blackout material together and then sewing separate doweling pockets and attaching them later, and I also didn't want to have stitching showing on the front side of the blind.  This proved to be a fatal error. 

  • I then sewed one side and the bottom of the blind together.  I inserted the doweling into the pockets and then sewed the other side shut.  I decided to sew the doweling right into the blind because in my research I saw some blinds that were constructed with the doweling in unclosed pockets, and I thought it was ugly to expose them.

  • Then I dropped the weight rod down to the bottom of the blind, and sewed up the top, attaching 2" Velcro along the entire width.

  • I hand sewed three columns of rings to each of the dowels.

  • The mounting system was easy to construct and install.  I really have no experience in this department either, but it was straight forward.  I simply stuck the Velcro onto the board, screwed the eye screws to the underside so that they lined up with the rings sewn on the back of the blind and then screwed the board into the studs about 4 inches above the window frame.

  • I attached the cleat about a meter from the top of the window.

  • Then I hung the blind using the Velcro.  As I tested the raising the blind for the first time, it became very apparent why you need to sew the front material and the lining together at every dowel.  The blind raised beautifully along the edges, but sagged and drooped in the center.  I ended up taking the blind down and sewing the two materials together, which was no easy feat, seeing as I had sewn the doweling into the blind and now had to sew with them inside.  It worked, but what a pain

 

notes for future reference:

  • The fabric I chose was pretty stiff and the addition of the blackout lining, made for a really stiff blind.  I really was making the blind for light control, so I'm happy with the end result, but it was difficult to handle and sew, and it doesn't fold well when raised.  I end up straightening it all time as I raise it.  Apparently, the blind will improve in this regard as it is "trained".  We'll see.

  • I didn't realize that light would come so easily through EVERY single hole I made in the blackout material.  When it is light outside, you can see every stitch hole as well as anywhere that I pinned.  I’m trying to think of a way to reduce this - maybe I'll glue strips of left over blackout material over the stitch lines.

  • I need to take some sewing lessons, or fool around with the machine a little before my next project.  I could never get the tension quite right and the stitching looks terrible.

  • I saw two ways of mounting a blind - one with Velcro and the other with staples or upholstery tacks.  I would definitely recommend the Velcro.  It is nice to be able to easily adjust it at any time without a hassle, and it makes it easier to remove for cleaning, recording etc.

 

final verdict:

  • The finished product was really nice.  Looking back, it was worth the stressful weekend (maybe Ian wouldn't agree!).  I would try in again, but use my new found respect for taking other people's advice on how to construct a blind.

  • I now need to redo their entire room to match the blind.  I'm thinking bead board wainscoting painted in a nice cream and a fresh pretty green on top…then new bedding and maybe a little window seat/reading alcove.

 

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