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   Paraty  Ilha Grande  |  Brazil

Latin America's largest country, the size of the lower 48 United States, Brazil has a booming developing economy. The capital is Brasília, specifically built to this purpose in the early 60s. São Paulo is one of the largest cities in the world, while Rio de Janeiro is by far Brazil's most famous.

Inflation has been a major economic problem for many years, but in the past decade this problem apparently became under control. Political and corruption issues every now and then still remind us of the old motto "Brazil is the country of the future - and will always be", but the economy is now very solid when compared to other South American nations.  

Initially known only for the coffee, Bossa Nova, Carnaval, beaches, soccer, and F-1 pilots, Brazil is nowadays also globally recognized for its aerospace industry, architecture, oil prospection, genetic research, and of course, for some of the world's most beautiful top models. 

One may find wealthy condominiums, fancy imported cars, and the world's third largest biz-jet and private helicopter fleet, right next to very poor neighborhoods, and villages with little electricity, inadequate sanitation, and illiteracy - but with satellite TV and cell phones !

What makes Brazil so attractive ?  Try to understand what an American visiting Ilha Grande recently told us: "The U.S. and Europe are so good, everything is so organized and clean, but at the same time, things are sooooo bad. On the other hand, Brazil is so disorganized, sometimes things are really bad, but at the same time, it is soooooo god !".  So, whaterver may your personal interpretation be...

Welcome to Brazil, the exotic country of beautiful landscapes, warm hospitality, and big contrasts !

 

ENTRY  REQUIREMENTS...

A passport and visa are required for foreigners traveling to Brazil for any purpose. Brazilian visas must be obtained in advance from the Brazilian Embassy or consulate nearest to the traveler's place of residence. There are no "airport visas," and immigration authorities will refuse entry to Brazil to anyone not possessing a valid visa. Paraty from the air... All Brazilian visas, regardless of the length of validity, must initially be used within 90 days of the issuance date or will no longer be valid.  Additionally, visitors must present an inoculation card indicating they had a yellow fever inoculation or they may not be allowed to board the plane or enter the country. Minors (under 18) traveling alone, with one parent or with a third party, must present written authorization by the absent parent(s) or legal guardian, specifically granting permission to travel alone, with one parent or with a third party. The authorization (in Portuguese) must be notarized and then authenticated by the Brazilian Embassy or Consulate. 

For current entry and customs requirements, travelers may contact the Brazilian Embassy through e-mail, and consulates jurisdictions may be found at the Brazilian Embassy website.

Foreign citizens also possessing Brazilian nationality will not be issued Brazilian visas and must obtain a Brazilian passport (from the Brazilian Embassy or Consulate nearest to their place of residence) to enter and depart Brazil. In addition to being subject to all Brazilian laws affecting foreign citizens, dual nationals may also be subject to other laws that impose special obligations on Brazilian citizens. For additional information, please contact the nearest Brazilian embassy or consulate. 

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS:  Brazilian customs authorities may enforce strict regulations concerning temporary importation into or export from Brazil of items such as firearms, antiquities, tropical plants, medications, and business equipment. It is advisable to contact one of Brazil's consulates for specific information regarding customs requirements.

 

DRIVING IN BRAZIL...

Rio-Santos (SP-55/BR-101) highway, near PicinguabaRenting a car in Brazil is fairly easy, but then driving is another story... Although some people tend to compare Brazil to Italy when it comes to driver's behaviour, driving in Brazil can be challenging mainly due to road conditions. 

There are occasional stretches of modern divided highway (especially in São Paulo State), but signs, shoulders, exits and merge lanes tend to be haphazard. There are many potholes, sometimes marked with a tree branch protruding from the hole, and asphalt is frequently uneven and bumpy. Many cities and towns have erected speed bumps ("lombadas"), which are sometimes severe and may be unpainted and unmarked. Pedestrians, bicyclists, and horse-drawn vehicles all can be encountered (e.g. Rod. Rio-Santos BR-101), and can pose hazards even on major routes. 

Most traffic accidents in Brazil are attributable to driver error, so great care should be taken by drivers and pedestrians alike. The fastest way to summon assistance in an emergency anywhere in the country is to dial 193, a universal number staffed by local fire departments (this service is in Portuguese only). Many drivers in major urban areas and more developed parts of the country carry cellular phones, and can be asked to assist in calling for help.

Driving in big cities, especially in São Paulo's rush hour, will probably require a lot more attention than in your hometown. This is due to motorbike couriers, the so called "motoboys" or "motoqueiros", who drive in a dangerous and aggressive manner, risking their own lives and other people's property. Very sadly, reports say that one or two of these "motoboys" die each day in São Paulo.

But passenger car travel will be reasonably safe in most areas if one takes into account the prevailing conditions described above and exercises due prudence and caution.  In other words: careful and defensive driving is all you will need for a safe trip.

 

DIRECTIONS:  

The Brazilian Federal Government maintains a (Portuguese) website with up-to-date information on road conditions throughout the country. It also has downloadable state roadmaps. 

When driving from São Paulo to Paraty, for example, you will be driving on safe, first-world class, divided, toll highways like Rodovia Ayrton Senna and Rodovia Carvalho Pinto (SP-070)*. Then, after some 6 km of usually heavy traffic on Dutra (BR-116)*, you will arrive in Taubaté. From Taubaté to Ubatuba, the undivided, windy Rodovia Oswaldo Cruz (SP-125)* will require extra attention. From Ubatuba to Paraty, the undivided scenic Rodovia Rio-Santos (BR-101)* is fairly well maintained - at least until you enter Rio de Janeiro State: the ca. 25 km from that point until Paraty can, especially in rainy seasons, offer bad surprises, from fallen rocks to potholes in the pavement.

   1 - Rod. Anchieta (SP-150)
   2 - Rod. Mogi-Bertioga (SP-160)
   3 - Rod. Ayrton Senna (SP-070) *
   4 - Rod. Carvalho Pinto (SP-070) *
   5 - Rod. Presidente Dutra (BR-116) *
   6 - Rod. dos Tamoios (SP-099)
   7 - Rod. Oswaldo Cruz (SP-125) *
   8 - Rod. Paraty-Cunha (SP-171)
        (9.6 km dirt road - to be avoided in rain !)

   9 - Rod. Barra Mansa - Angra dos Reis
  10 - Rod. Rio-Santos (SP-55/BR-101)*
      
* indicate roads you'll take from SP to Paraty.


DRIVING IN BRAZIL BASICS:

A new Brazilian highway code strengthening and consolidating Brazilian traffic laws entered into force on January 22, 1998. While the law establishes a system of sometimes severe penalties for a number of old and new traffic offenses, enforcement varies, and highway officers can be corrupt, so drivers should not assume that others will necessarily follow even the most fundamental and widely accepted rules of the road. Some important local rules and customs include the following:

  • Minimum age: 18 years.

  • Seat Belts: law enforced.

  • International and U.S. driver's licenses are accepted.

  • Highway speed limits varies, and are widely ignored, although there is enforcement. Unmarked electronic/photographic devices to verify speed and take photos of violators' cars and license plates as a basis for issuing speeding tickets are very common on highways. Basic limits:

    • SP-070: 120 km/h

    • BR-116: 110 km/h

    • SP-125 and BR-101: 100 km/h

  • City speed limits are variable, depending on the road and the nature of the neighborhood. Many towns and cities have marked electronic/photographic devices ("Fiscalização Eletrônica"), which verify speed and snap photos of violators' cars and license plates as a basis for issuing speeding tickets, so keep an eye on speed signs all the time !

  • Saco do Diogo and Ilha da Cotia from the air...Driving Under the Influence: Drivers are in violation of the law if blood/alcohol level reaches 0.6 percent.

  • City traffic in SP and RJ can be huge, especially at rush hour.

  • Left lane is for passing.

  • Turns on Red Lights: Not permitted, except for right turns where there is a sign with an arrow pointing right and the words "Livre à Direita".

  • Yielding the Right of Way: drivers must yield the right of way to cars on their right. Stop signs are rarely enforced, so many drivers simply take them for yield signs.

  • Penalties for Drivers Involved in an Accident Resulting in Injury or Death: In addition to possible criminal charges and penalties, compensatory and punitive damages may also apply.

  • Local Driving Customs: Drivers often use flashes or wave a hand out of the window to signal other drivers to slow down. Drivers will often break suddenly to slow down for the electronic speed traps mentioned above. On the other hand, most drivers think they have right-of-way over pedestrians, even on pedestrian "zebra" crossings.

  • Rental car companies offer automatic transmission car only on request; most cars have manual transmission.

  • Major rental companies: Herz, Avis, Unidas, Localiza.

       

MONEY  MATTERS...
 
Ilha das Couves After many decades of huge inflation, Brazilian economy is fairly stable nowadays. Brazilian currency is the Real (R$), pronounced "hay-ahl", and Reais ("hay-ice") for the plural. Newspapers usually inform the official exchange rate, and what you have to look for is the "DOLAR TURISMO" rate.  For todays rate, follow this LINK.

Bank notes in circulation are: R$1 - R$2 - R$5 - R$10 - R$20 - R$50 - R$100 
Coins in circulation are: R$0,01 - R$0,05 - R$0,10 - R$0,25 - R$0,50 - R$1,00

U.S dollars can easily be exchanged at hotels, banks, travel agencies and currency exchange offices. As a rule of thumb, you will get a lower exchange rate for traveller's cheques than for cash.

Credit cards are widely accepted throughout Brazil (except in very small towns), VISA being the most popular. 

Most Brazilian banks offer ATMs, but it is advisable to check your card's acceptance in advance. 

A few useful tips:

  • Airports: porters may charge as much as $1 per bag

  • Taxis: Tipping is not expected, yet many people choose to round up the fare. Drivers in some cities charge for help with baggage

  • Hotels and pousadas: a $1 tip is OK for chambermaids and bellboys

  • Restaurants: a 10% gratuity will often be included in the bill

  • Sales Taxes: advertised prices on store windows and bills will always include sales taxes.

  • The usual taxi fare between Paraty and our base (PPYC) is R$ 20,00 (ca. US$7), never more than that.

 

LANGUAGE...

Portuguese is the official language. Except for the languages spoken by Indian tribes living in remote areas, Portuguese is the only language the majority of the population speaks. Don't expect to find English-speaking people outside hotels, although in certain pousadas, restaurants, and shops in Paraty, Spanish, English, and sometimes French, is spoken as well. 

There are no dialects, but depending on the regional accent, it may be hard to understand what people are saying, even for other Brazilians. Brazil is the only Portuguese-speaking country in South America.

 

ELECTRICITY...
 
Voltage throughout Brazil is either 110/127V or 220V, 60 Hz, so it is advisable to check your appliance's manual before you plug anything in. Wall power outlets will usually accept American-standard plugs, but you may eventually need an easily available conversion plug, depending on your equipment. 

Our yacht is equipped with a 110V inverter, so it is possible to recharge camcorder and cellphone batteries if you can adapt to this voltage.

 

  WATER  &  FOOD...

Water in Brazil is usually safe and treated in public plants, although drinking non-filtered tap water is not recommended. Drinking only filtered or mineral water is a good idea if you want to avoid any risks.

Brazilian typical cuisine varies according to the region you will be visiting, and can sometimes be spicy, heavy and strong, depending on the menu. Worth of interest is São Paulo's international reputation for the quality of its restaurants - one can find from pizzas to sushi, or from Italian to Arabian restaurants, many times much better than the original ones in their homelands.

A complete experience in Brazil should include a tasty feijoada, seafood, and churrasco.

 

YOUR  HEALTH...

Rule #1: do not understimate sunburn consequences !  Sunshine, in Brazil, can be extremely strong, especially during summertime and near the sea - and the ozone layer isn't getting thicker. Some important tips:

  • Avoid oily tan lotions, and use only SPF 30+ sunblock. 

  • Cloudy weather can be tricky - you will get burned the same way !

  • The wind, while sailing, burns and dehydrates too !

  • Don't forget your sunblock lip balm and sunglasses.

  • Avoid sun exposure between 10:00 and 15:00.

  • Avoid dehydration: drink as much water as possible. You may also try coconut water.

Saco do Mamanguá, Paraty MirimA yellow fever vaccination certificate may be required only if, within the last 90 days, you have travelled to any of the following countries: Angola, Bolivia, Benin, Burkina, Cameroon, Colombia, Democratic Republic of Congo, Ecuador, French Guyana, Gabon, Ghana, Gambia, Republic of Guinea, Liberia, Nigeria, Peru, Sierra Leone, Sudan or Venezuela. Yellow fever vaccination is advisable if your destinations in Brazil will also include any of the following Brazilian states: Acre, Amapá, Amazonas, Federal District of Brasilia, Goiás, Maranhão, Mato Grosso, Mato Grosso do Sul, Pará, Rondônia, Roraima and/or Tocantins.

Quality medical service and well equipped hospitals can be found in São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, Albert Einstein Hospital in São Paulo being regularly used by U.S. Government personnel. Smaller towns, like Paraty and Angra dos Reis offer only limited public hospitals. 

In case of major emergencies, quick evacuation to São Paulo, either by helicopter or by aircraft is possible, as both Paraty and Angra dos Reis have local airports. But do not forget to check if your medical insurance covers medical care overseas, emergency expenses such as medical evacuation included. 

Many travel agents and private companies offer insurance plans that will cover health care expenses incurred overseas, including medical evacuations. When making a decision regarding health insurance, consider that many doctors and private hospitals require payment in cash prior to providing service and that a medical evacuation to the United States, for example, may cost well in excess of US$50,000. Uninsured travelers who require medical care overseas often face extreme difficulties. When consulting with your insurer prior to your trip, please ascertain whether payment will be made to the overseas healthcare provider or if you will be reimbursed later for expenses that you may incur.

The bottomline here is: avoid hurting yourself badly !

 

  CRIMINAL  PENALITIES...

While in a foreign country, tourists are always subject to that country's laws and regulations, which sometimes differ significantly from those in their homeland and may not afford the protections available to the individual under their country's laws.  Penalties for breaking the law can eventually be more severe than in your homeland for similar offenses. 

Persons violating Brazilian laws, even unknowingly, may be expelled, arrested or imprisoned. Penalties for possession, use, or trafficking in illegal drugs in Brazil are very strict, and convicted offenders can expect jail sentences and heavy fines.

 

  PIRACY...

Pirates ?Sometimes people ask us about piracy in Brazilian waters and the safety of our cruising grounds, especially after America's Cup and Withbread/Volvo Round-the-World champion, Sir Peter Blake, was killed in 2001 during a round-the-world expedition, in Belém, Pará State. Although piracy reports worldwide are on the rise, we can testify that Paraty, Angra dos Reis and Ilha Grande are very safe cruising grounds, with no piracy reports so far.

In the specific case of Sir Peter Blake, "port rats" (as these armed bandits are known), from nearby poor neighborhoods, boarded his yacht, and demanded money, valuables, etc. Peter Blake reacted, and the very sad result is known to everyone. These "port rats" also act in Santos and Rio de Janeiro ports, but they basically target cargo ships, not cruising sailboats.

Another specific case was reported against a German sailor, anchored in Iguape Bay near Maragogipe, Bahia State. But then again, the yacht was anchored near poor areas. 

So, differently from the Caribbean, piracy, dinghy & outboard theft, as well as unauthorized boardings, are extremely rare situations in our selected cruising areas.

    

  SAFETY  ISSUES...

There is no need to be over-apprehensive about your personal safety in Brazil, but common-sense and attention should never be left at home !  Unfortunately, however, petty crimes occur everywhere: as in any major city around the world, you do need to be careful when walking in the streets or talking to strangers, so here is some information that will make your trip a safe and pleasant one...

Political and labor strikes and demonstrations can occur sporadically in metropolitan areas and may cause temporary disruption to public transportation. All protests have the potential to turn violent. While it is unlikely that foreign citizens would be targeted during such events, tourists are advised to take common-sense precautions and avoid any large gatherings or any other event where crowds have congregated to demonstrate or protest. 

Crime rates throughout Brazil have increased, but remain highest in the larger cities of São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. The incidence of crime against tourists is greater in metropolitan areas surrounding beaches, hotels, discotheques, bars, nightclubs, and other similar establishments that cater to visitors and is especially prevalent during Carnaval. Occasionally, crime against tourists has been violent and has led to some deaths. While the risk is greater at dusk and during the evening hours, street crime can occur during both the day and night, and safer areas of these cities are not immune. Incidents of theft on city buses do exist, and such transportation should better be avoided. Several Brazilian cities have established specialized tourist police units to patrol areas frequented by tourists. 

As in any major city, there can be pickpocketing at airports, hotel lobbies, bus stations and other public places . Carry-on luggage, briefcases, and laptop computers are particularly targeted. Travelers should "dress down" when outside and avoid carrying valuables or wearing jewelry or expensive watches.

"Good Samaritan" scams are common. If a tourist looks lost or seems to be having trouble communicating, he or she may be victimized by a seemingly innocent and helpful bystander. Care should be taken at and around banks and internationally connected automatic teller machines that take U.S. credit or debit cards.

Brazil's advanced developing economy has created huge social contrasts: very poor neighborhoods, known as "favelas" (in Rio de Janeiro often located on steep hillsides), are found right next to luxury condominums, throughout Brazilian cities. "Favelas" are sites of uncontrolled criminal activity, and are often not patrolled by police. Tourists are advised to avoid these unsafe areas.

While the ability of Brazilian police to help recover stolen property is limited, it is nevertheless strongly advised to obtain a "boletin de ocorrência", or "B.O." (police report) at a "delegacia" (police station) whenever any possessions are lost or stolen. This will facilitate the traveler's exit from Brazil and insurance claims.

The loss or theft of a foreign passport should be reported immediately to the local police and your country's nearest embassy or consulate.

SÃO PAULO: While similar incidents may occur elsewhere, all areas of São Paulo have a high rate of armed robbery of pedestrians at stoplights. There is a particularly high incidence of robberies and pickpocketing in the Praça da Sé, downtown section of São Paulo, and in the eastern part of the city. If renting a car, ask for an air-conditioned one, and keep windows closed and doors locked all times. Extra attention should be paid at stoplights, and eventually treat stoplights as mere stop signs at night. 

RIO DE JANEIRO: The city continues to experience a high incidence of crime. Tourists are particularly vulnerable to street thefts and robberies on and in areas adjacent to all the main beaches in the city. Walking on the beaches can be very dangerous at night. Recent efforts of incarcerated drug lords to exert their power outside of their jail cells occasionally result in serious disruptions in the city, violence directed at the authorities and incidents of crimes against property, including after-hours shootings and explosions set off outside hotels and restaurants frequented by tourists. While these occurrences have so far not resulted in any injuries, visitors and residents alike should be aware that inconveniences such as closed shops and disrupted municipal services are likely. In Rio de Janeiro City, drivers are allowed to treat stoplights as mere stop signs between the hours of 10 p.m. and 6 a.m. to protect against holdups at intersections. All incidents should be reported to the tourist police.

 

But, on the other hand...

The areas we cruise are normally safe and friendly, and Paraty's major business is tourism - so they need to keep it safe - and that's the way you will feel there !  Since common-sense and attention are key factors to a happy and safe stay in any country - Brazil being no exception - remember:

Do: 

  • ask your hotel for safety information about the areas you plan to visit;

  • leave valuable items, including jewelry, travel documents and most of your money in a safe at your hotel;

  • travel in group whenever possible, and especially at night;

  • ask police for help if necessary;

  • take only what is necessary to the beach;

  • behave like an experienced traveller as opposed to a tourist;

  • remember that you represent your homeland;

  • hide your wallet and other valuable items in an inaccessible place inside your bag - and watch it at all times;

  • if renting a car, ask for one with air conditioning, and keep the windows closed all times;

  • have the time of your life !

Do Not:

  • keep valuable items in your back pockets or in the outside pockets of your purse or bag;

  • wear flashy jewelry (or expensive items, such as designer glasses and valuable watches) in the streets;

  • travel by yourself in unfamiliar or dangerous areas;

  • display your money;

  • leave your personal belongings unattended;

  • keep your car's windows open, especially at stop lights;

  • think it can't happen to you;

  • get involved in illegal activities (anything illegal in your homeland is probably illegal in Brazil too !)

  • react, if robbed at gunpoint; while your belongings are replaceable, your life is not !

 

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