FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:

Q: How do you get your mowers to go so fast?
A: The speed is achieved by removing your blades, changing belts and pulleys to alter your drive ratio, removing your governor, and adding a throttle.

Q: Is there a brand or style of mower that is preferred?
A: It is all up to the driver's preference. Some people prefer a tractor style, while others prefer the rear-engine rider style mower. Both styles are bringing home the hardware!

Q: Can you tell me what pulley set-up to use?
A: There isn't a specific set-up we could recommend (SORRY!). All mowers perform differently. There are also a lot of variables: What size engine, what type of mower, the weight of mower, driver's weight, tires, etc. We do recommend that you start out with a 1-to-1 gear ratio and work from there. It's a good place to start.

Q: Do you need a big-time sponsor to be able to compete?
A: No, you do not need a big time sponsor to compete, but it doesn't hurt. Most racers in our group are self-sponsored (or minimally sponsored) and I must say we have the most National Champions out of all other states in the great United States of America since the US Lawnmower Racing Association started in 1992!!

Q: How can I race?
A: For grass racing, you must be able to pass technical inspection, be a member of the racing organization you are racing with (USLMRA or OMR, etc.), and depending on the venue your race fees range from FREE to around $30.00. You must also purchase the liability insurance for $5.00. (Sorry, but since the Dewberry Mudboggers currently hold their mudbogs at someone's residence, we cannot invite new racers or spectators.)

GENERAL TIPS:

1) First remove your blades but keep your blade deck on. You will want to bolt it solid so that it will hold your weight as well as not sway when you drive it. You will want at least a 2" clearance from underneath the blade deck. This will also give you a lower center of gravity.

2) Remove the governor linkage which is the linkage that your stock throttle is originally connected to the carb (which restricts the RPMS) and install a hand or a foot throttle. It is all up to your driving style and preferences on which you choose.

3) Add a tethered kill switch (in case you get bucked off it will kill your motor). You can purchase these at most motorcycle shops for around $30.

4) You will want to bolt your front end solid (where it pivots). This improves your handling tremendously (SAFETY).

5) Drill and tap your axles so that you can put locking devices on your axle to keep your tires from coming off. E-rings or "C" clips are not enough (SAFETY).

6) You will change your belts and pulleys to achieve a different final drive ratio (we recommend to start out -- a 1-to-1 ratio -- same size pulleys on the front and back to begin with and then experiment with different sizes pulleys (going smaller on the back pulley) to increase your speeds. A small change in size can make all the difference -- a 1/2 inch or a 1/4 inch is sometimes all you will need in between changes. We cannot specify which pulleys will work best because every mower is different and there are a lot of variables -- such as weight of the mower, the driver, etc.

7) You will want to put tubes in your tires. They tend to roll off the rims on cornering with speeds (SAFETY).

Then you can always do engine work -- like you would traditionally with an automobile (port & polish). PLEASE NOTE: If you do this to your engine, you will not be eligible for some racing classes with the USLMRA -- such as the stock class and IMOW clss. What type of engine is up to you and the class division you intend on running. All seem to have their pros and cons! As far as where to get parts, you can visit our "Products/Services" web page and there is contact information for our gurus for parts (or visit your local flea markets and lawnmower shops).

Regarding brakes, some (including ourselves) are currently running standard lawnmower brakes and some are using go-cart brakes. The way the speeds are increasing, you should seriously consider going to some sort of go-cart braking system or something more substantial than stock brakes. The stock brakes work pretty good but burn the pads pretty easily so you will want fresh brake pads every race (usually about $6.00 a piece). IMPORTANT NOTE: You will want to remove the brake locking mechanism which holds the brake in the locked position like when you are parked. This is a SERIOUS safety hazard because it could cause the brake to lock on you. It is easy to remove (SAFETY).

Always make sure that you have on safety gear when practicing (helmet, neck brace, gloves, long pants and sleeves, etc.). If your budget allows you can purchase the protective gear used by dirt bikers. Lawnmower racing is fun but it can also be dangerous. Also make sure that you get as much seat time as possible because YOU CAN BUILD THE FASTEST MOWER, BUT YOU STILL GOTTA STAY IN THE SEAT!! You will be a hazard to yourself (and others) if you cannot maintain control of your vehicle at all times!! Make sure that you practice going around corners because lawnmowers are prone to flip and you must either slow down or use your Body English to help maintain the machine (SAFETY, SAFETY, SAFETY!)