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Cutting the pieces... |
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Note the jig to the right on the table saw (pardon the photo -- it was late!). For a diagram of the jig, click here. I like a table saw for cutting this kind of thing because once set-up repeated cuts tend to remain accurate -- unlike my experience with most radial arm or mitre cut saws. This jig is nothing more than a piece of plywood with two oak strips on the bottom that fit the mitre grooves in the saw table top. The two pieces (fences) you can see on the top are set to the angles from the diagram you just made. You can pick-up the angles from the drawing, or you can actually cut the drawing to transfer the angles to the jig. If you do, save all the pieces to that you can tape the diagram back together to use later (see below). Note that the guides are held down with a screw in the end closest to the blade, while there is a fender washer under the screw on the outside end. That's because the hole on the outside end is oversized, and the washer allows for some fine tuning adjustement. Also note the guide stop C-clamped to the fence.
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This jig is a prototype. I will build a much more substantial and finished tool for the banjos to come. The settings here are critical to getting good, tight glue joints. Rip some scrap to the appropriate width, then cut eight pieces using the jig. Fit the eight pieces together on top of your diagram, and check for fit and finished diameter. Make adustments in the angle of cut and the length stop until you get perfect joints. Speaking of the length stop, it's dimension is critical to get the rim diameter you want. Remember there are 15 cuts made here -- if each cut is just 1/32" off that's a total of nearly 1/2 inch -- that's one reason to check everything with a trial run of scrapwood!
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On to the next step! -- Back Home |
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Planning the cuts -- The cutting jig -- The gluing jig -- Routing the diameter -- Gluing the stack |
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