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Volume
2, Number 1
May
2001
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Road
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Photos 1 Boil
Photos 2 B2
off a Waltzin' Butt
Wait...There's More Ratchet Biker
Betty Billy
Street National Events Editorial
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Big
Sky in Montana... Part 4
by
Lauranne Bailey
It’s
early April and the temperatures are creeping just above 50 degrees. My
husband has been zipping around on his KZ1000 since last weekend while my
chaps are in the shop being repaired. For once I can say they are being
reduced rather than expanded! As for my bike, I can only stare out the
window at it resting in the garage as I tend to my spring cold. That’s
what I get for bragging about being healthy all winter. When I finally
feel better and crank the Triumph over, the battery gives little
cooperation. It will have to wait until I return from a trip out east to
visit family in Maryland. In the meantime, I bring you the second to last
segment of last summer’s trip from Wisconsin, to Canada, to Montana and
back.
Day
7
Monday,
July 31, Troy, Montana (day 7)
I
am one of the first to awake, and luxuriate as my eyes open, feeling the
softness of the fur beneath me, the featherlight sleeping bag on top and I
can feel my body purring for the first time since Tuesday. Cindy wakes up
and I tell her this is my best night of sleep yet. I make some mention of
not giving up the bed and she vehemently exclaims, "You promised I'd
get it tonight!" I mumble, "Oh, that's right." So then I
rave about the kitty blanket and say, "You know, I wonder what this
is made of, cougar? lynx? wait, aren't the big cats endangered?"
Cindy says, "Didn't you hear the explanation last night? I tell her,
"No, I went out like a light." She says, "Look closer, it's
a patchwork of tabbies and greys and…" I am really trying not to
hurl at this point. She says, "Yeah, Al says he told all his
neighbors if your cat is over here terrorizing my birds or fox, it's going
to meet up with the rifle." Most were wild cats, I am told, but
STILL…the thought of sleeping on domestic cats was a little more than
this muskrat trapping, deer hunting, motorcycle touring woman could
stomach.
Trying
to put that behind me, I prepare myself for a shower. But this takes me
awhile. I am drinking caffeinated coffee on this trip, something I gave up
years ago. While I'm rearranging my packs, Cindy hits the shower; then
Peggy. I am the third to go in and have hot water for about 10 seconds. At
this point I search my imagination, close my eyes and believe that I am
really taking a shower in an ice cold waterfall spilling from some
gorgeous Montana mountain spring.
The
other two guests on Al and Dave's porch from the evening before are
Clarence and Val, Peggy's dad and sister from Washington State. Clarence
offers to take us all out for breakfast in town. Three of us pile into
Al's truck and three into Clarence's car and we're off to Troy for
standard eggs, bacon, hash browns and whole wheat toast (no more brown
toast) feast. We chat a lot, and have fun with Clarence and Val. As we
prepare to leave, I am put into my little girl mode as Clarence says,
"Aren't you going to eat all the bacon? Geez, looks like your eyes
were bigger than your stomach when someone else foots the bill." I
quickly retorted, "I am full. In Wisconsin you get three slices of
skinny bacon, not this four slices of thick, long bacon. I am not used to
this size portion being served." He groans a little and I add,
"Can I give bacon to your dog?" (Weiner dog) He says,
"Sure." So I packed up the two slices into a napkin and feed his
dog treats throughout the day.
As
we're driving back to Al's, Peggy announces we're going to the old growth
cedar forest. I say to her why didn't you tell us before breakfast so we
could have brought cameras? She says I don't know, it just seems a good
time to go see it. Well, it is one of two attractions we wanted to explore
that day based on previous conversations. The other is a swinging bridge
over the Kootenai River.
We
arrive into this mystical forest with childlike anticipation, where it
takes four of us linking arms to circle some of the larger trees. The
forest floor is bog-like with some springs, other dried streams (drought),
but spongy in places, solid in others. The bird twitters are muted by the
100 or more feet of canopy above us. And just for a moment, I am in
Tolkien's forest of Ents, where the trees are talking to me, and their
branches are arms that welcome me and tell me I am protected in this
space.
Throughout
our walk, Clarence takes pictures as he has his camera along. We enjoy the
various poses, and tree caves, and walking the tree planks. It is so fun
to feel 12-years-old and safe. It is only when we return to Al's that
Clarence discovers his film was not forwarding on the reel, so our only
pictures remain in our mind.
It
is time for Cindy, Mariann, Peggy and I to gather our laundry as this is
how we were able to pack so lightly (we chuckle to ourselves). Karen, Al's
sister-in-law across the road has agreed to let us use her washer and
dryer for the day. Peggy mentions that Karen's husband always begins new
projects and never finishes the old. One is building a house, and not
finishing the interior, so when we walk in there, we see racks and racks
of clothes in the living room because we are told the bedroom is not
finished.
We
figure we can make it through three loads of laundry among the four of us,
and we start one load, understanding it's going to take some time as the
cold water barely makes a trickle into the washer. We will later finish
the laundry by 6 a.m. the following day, and yes, it was only three loads.
Then
we are off again, this time to visit the Kootenai Falls County Park. Well
in Wisconsin, a County Park is a small thing. Usually a little stream or
water wheel to visit, perhaps a lake or two. Here in Montana, their County
Park is akin to a Wisconsin State Park, in terms of scenery. The path
takes us to different rock cairns overlooking the river and various falls.
Another path bridges across the railroad tracks and onto a genuine
swinging bridge (only four people allowed on it at a time).
The
walk was too far for Clarence and the bridge too high for Mariann, so only
Cindy, Peggy, Val and I ventured to the cable and wood bridge. We are even
told Meryl Streep was here filming "The River Wild".
Afterwards
we drop Clarence off at Al's and head out to Troy for groceries,
refreshments, and banking. We bring home the bounty and divide chores to
prepare a feast of butterflied pork chops for the grill, steamed broccoli
and cauliflower in a yogurt cheese sauce, bountiful salad greens, grilled
potatoes, and pies for dessert. My job is to prepare the veggies, and I
have lots of spare time to journal. I broke into a bottle of 1997 Columbia
Crest Merlot (can't get this fine year anymore in Madison!) and began
writing of my travels. Val is the only other one to help me out…everyone
else sticks with water or beer.
Dinner
is served, and Al, Dave and Clarence, we can tell, are happy they didn't
have to cook (yes it was another scorcher out in the sun. And here we are,
all eight of us sitting on the porch, on the old couch and overstuffed
chair, 50's kitchen chairs, enjoying the evening, the food the company,
and difficult to say how it all began, but it's one of those things, when
one's comment feeds off another’s, and a giggle here and there turns
into a louder laugh the next time, side splitting laughter the next
minute, and this continued until 2 a.m. This is the latest any of us four
riders had stayed up the entire trip.
There
is something magical about allowing the endorphin flowage, letting the
jokes and laughter fly, and releasing a week's worth of road tension into
the Montana night, which gladly envelopes our cacophony as it echos from
one mountain to the next. It is in this moment that what matters is the
twilight of falling stars, the bugless air, the mountain wildflower show,
and the connection of human souls on a level that may never be replicated
again. Gone are the boundaries of vacuum cleaners, kitty blankets, leather
coats, dust rags, hot water heaters, sleeping motorcycles. Connected, are
eight jubilant souls, dancing in the starlight.
Day
8
Tuesday,
August 1 Troy MT to Big Timber MT 447 miles
Today
we leave Peggy behind. She has some business to take care of with the
house she and her husband, Rolf, are building in the property adjacent to
Al’s. Mariann decides to come with us. She has a new man back in
Wisconsin and is anxious to be home before Sunday. I wake up fairly early,
7 a.m. and lament I only get five hours sleep until someone reminds me the
time I was looking at was in Central Time, not Mountain, so I actually get
six hours of sleep.
I
jump in the shower before anyone else gets half a chance. I need to have
some warm water flowing across my body. We finish drying our laundry, pack
our bags, our bikes, say some long good-byes and we are off by 9:30 a.m..
This
time I lead the three of us through the mountains. I mention to Mariann
that Cindy and I have reservations in a National Forest south of Bozeman
down a mile of gravel road. She says she will most likely find a motel.
When I add that our stop in Sturgis is down a 4-1/2 mile gravel road, she
says she'll definitely be leaving us behind once we pass through the
mountains. Our ride through Montana has little traffic, but much road
construction. I realize I didn't miss that in Canada because there wasn't
any to speak of. Mariann and Cindy have difficulties with the grooved
pavement, where the first 1/2" of pavement is ground off for
refinishing, and their bike tires dance in the grooves while their
knuckles turn white gripping the handlebars for steering. For some very
odd reason, Penelope’s (the name I decide to give my bike) tires are
different or wider as the grooved pavement does not affect my riding
ability. For that I am thankful, but it is difficult to watch the two
behind me suffer as we move east.
We
meet up with a large stocky fellow and his partner from Washington State,
riding on their Harley with trailer attached, heading to Sturgis. It is by
chance we see each other at two different gas stops, and he is as
terrified of the grooved pavement as are Mariann and Cindy. I have
memories of that terror from other bikes, but am not part of this pow wow
this trip. It is interesting and heartening to share these fears with
others on the road, and especially with men, because men aren't always so
vocal about things like this.
At
our late afternoon lunch stop, again, the heat becoming unbearable, we
cancel the campground reservation in Bozeman and agree to ride to Big
Timber with Mariann for a stay in a motel. We close in on Big Timber close
to 8 p.m., when I lead us to an off the beaten path motel, only to find it
full. We all nearly lose our bikes in the three inch loose rock driveway,
then head back to the Super-8 only to get the absolutely last room there.
We're feeling rather fortunate. Since we had a rather large lunch, we're
happy to settle for some snack sandwiches and hanging out in the room. And
we're pleasantly surprised to see three women and one man (husband of
Laura) who are from the Milwaukee Area Women in the Wind chapter, the same
chapter Mariann is from. We chat, catch up on stories, and return to our
respective rooms for a good night's sleep.
Biker
Betty
Join
us next month for Part 5
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