Knitted Camera Sock
�2005 Nicole's Crochet Bistro
This design was inspired by the first knitted sock that I had made. The night I had taken the sock with me to show a few friends, I took my digital camera with me also. Well, I didn't have a camera case for it yet and when I looked at the sock and then the camera... VOILA!!! it fit perfectly inside the sock... camera was protected... I wouldn't forget the sock at home {or while out!!!}... and a new idea for me was born!
The "sock" looks stretched out in this photo because I used my 35 mm camera for the display photo instead of my digital camera {that's what was taking the pics! *lol*}. The digital camera fits inside very nicely without the sock being too loose or too tight. I have an average-sized Kodak digicam, but if you have a very small model, you can try using a thinner weight of yarn and smaller needles.
This project whips up really quick {I got mine done in less than a day} and is a great project to get used to dpns on. I used a set of 4 US 6/ 4.00 mm dpns, but you could use 5 to make the shaping at the bottom easier. I added a quick little crocheted edging to dress the top edge up, but you could just as easily use a crab stitch, sc or just leave it plain.
Close up of top edging
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Close up of bottom decrease
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What Do I Need?
Small amount worsted weight yarn {I used RH Soft Touch in #4609}
Set of 4 (or 5) 4.00 mm/ US 8 dpns
4.50 mm (G/7) crochet hook
Yarn needle
Cast on 48 sts. loosely. Divide into 16 sts on each needle. Join in rnd and place marker on first st.
Rows 1-5: Work in (K1, P1) ribbing.
Row 6: (Yo, k2tog) around.
Rows 7-13: Work in (K1, P1) ribbing.
Rows 8-32: Knit until work measures approx. ??? from beginning.
Redistribute stitches on needles as follows: 24 sts on 1st needle, 12 sts on 2nd and 3rd needles. Continue for bottom shaping.
Row 32: 1st needle: K6, K2tog, K8, Sl1, K1, psso, K6; 2nd needle: K6, K2tog, K4; 3rd needle: K4, Sl1, K1, psso, K6.
Row 33: 1st needle: K5, K2tog, K8, Sl1, K1, psso, K5; 2nd needle: K5, K2tog, K4; 3rd needle: K4, Sl1, K1, psso, K5.
Row 34: 1st needle: K4, K2tog, K8, Sl1, K1, psso, K4; 2nd needle: K4, K2tog, K4; 3rd needle: K4, Sl1, K1, psso, K4.
Row 35: 1st needle: K3, K2tog, K8, Sl1, K1, psso, K3; 2nd needle: K3, K2tog, K4; 3rd needle: K4, Sl1, K1, psso, K3.
Row 36: 1st needle: K2, K2tog, K8, Sl1, K1, psso, K2; 2nd needle: K2, K2tog, K4; 3rd needle: K4, Sl1, K1, psso, K2.
Row 37: 1st needle: K1, K2tog, K8, Sl1, K1, psso, K1; 2nd needle: K1, K2tog, K4; 3rd needle: K4, Sl1, K1, psso, K1.
Row 38: 1st needle: K2tog, K8, Sl1, K1, psso; 2nd needle: K2tog, K4; 3rd needle: K4, Sl1, K1, psso.
Cast off and seam remaining stitches using your favourite method. I used a three needle cast-off, but you could graft the seam or simply cast off the stitches normally and sew the bottom up.
Designers Note: If you wish to use four working needles for the bottom shaping instead of just three, divide the stitches for the first needle on to two {12 sts per needle}; and instead of following the directions for the 1st needle, simply repeat the instructions for the 2nd and 3rd needles twice.
...and now your digicam has its own hand-knit sock!
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�2002-2005 Nicole's Crochet Bistro
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