I didn't really pay much attention to this costume when I (finally) saw the movie, but after seeing it in person at the FIDM Dressing A Galaxy exhibit, I decided I just had to have it. :D I've done some extensive research on her embroidered flower buckle, which you can find [here].

[Skip to in-progress costume.]

To have the correct shape for this costume, I'll wear a Victorian corset and a corded petticoat. The black corset is modified from Simplicity 9764, the same pattern used for my CanCan Ensemble corset except extended to go over the bust. It is made from duckcloth and black dupioni silk, and features a front metal busk and steel boning from CorsetMaking.com. The edges are bound with matching self-made bias tape. The corded ruffled petticoat is made from black cotton and 1/2" rope cording from Joanns. I used black grosgrain ribbon for the waistband to help reduce bulk. My hope is that the corded ruffled petticoat will help support the weight of the underskirt and overcoat without the harsh lines of a hoopskirt. I added cording to the top of each ruffle before stitching the ruffles onto the A-line skirt base. The ruffles give the skirt some 'poof' while the cording holds the skirt outward and keeps it from wrapping around my legs as I walk. I somewhat followed the Recipe For a Corded Petticoat and took inspiration from other examples 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, and 07. I'm debating whether or not I want to starch the petticoat, but I won't know for sure until I see the effect of the non-starched petticoat under the skirt. It may not be necessary and I doubt I'll want to deal with it when the time comes.

COMING SOON

Left to Right: -
[up]   [finished costume]

The bodice features a high mandarin collar and comes to a gentle point at the front waist. In pictures, we see that the hem of the bodice rolls forward a bit - it looks like there may be piping in the seam, but we don't know for sure. The high collar comes to a 'V' in the center front and has two vertical front seams (probably four total, though we can't see the back collar due to the overcoat). This helps shape the collar to the neck. Since we don't see this costume without the overcoat, we don't know if the bodice has any stylines for shaping. I'll make my recreation with princess seams, as these will be hidden by the coat anyway and will be easier to fit on me. Simplicity 9466 should do the trick. The collar will be draped on my dressform to get an idea of the general shape and then the bodice pattern modified appropriately. I'm making my bodice sleeveless, since the sleeves for the overcoat are tight-fitting and I want to reduce the number of layers I'm wearing. It will close in back with a row of buttons - Padme's costumes tend to have back lacing (i.e. the EP2 Picnic Dress, the EP2 Purple Senate Gown), but I fear this will be too bulky under the form-fitting overcoat. For fabric, I'll use diagonal doubleweave habotai from Thai Silks dyed silver with Jacquard Acid Dyes from DharmaTradingCo. I'll flatline it with gray cotton, and possibly line it with silver habotai or gray charmeuse from Thai Silks.

COMING SOON

Left to Right: -
[up]   [finished costume]

The gray skirt is a simple A-line shape, made from the same fabric as the bodice. I'll use diagonal doubleweave habotai from Thai Silks dyed silver with Jacquard Acid Dyes from DharmaTradingCo. I'll probably have to line it - either with a gray cotton or perhaps silver habotai or gray charmeuse from Thai Silks. The overcoat is trained, but we don't know if the underskirt has a train too. I'm not going to include one on my recreation, for ease of wearing (less fabric to dye too!). My skirt will close with a side invisible zipper and have a small 1" waistband.

COMING SOON

Left to Right: -
[up]   [finished costume]

The overcoat is made from a herringbone weave fabric, probably a suit-weight wool. On screen the overcoat looks dark blue, almost black, but exhibit pictures from FIDM show the coat is actually a gray-purple color. The coat has princess seams in the back, and most likely the front too (though any front stylelines are hidden by the large collar/pockets). A 2" wide belt cuts the waist and probably hides a waist seam. The overcoat is floor-length and has a train. The sleeves fit tight to the arm and flare slightly at the hem to cup the hand. The edges are piped in bright blue taffeta, the same that lines the collar/pockets. The collar/pockets start as a large rolled collar that form into hanging pockets with knots on the end. For my recreation, I'll use herringbone weave wool from Fashion Fabrics Club or maybe from Denver Fabrics. The coat will be lined in gray cotton and piped with blue silk taffeta from Denver Fabrics. I'll cut the belt from the wool fashion fabric and then use duck cloth and cotton as interlining and lining, respectively. The belt will thread through the collar/pockets and run around the back. I haven't decided yet if I'll sew it in place to keep it from shifting. The belt will close with two trouser hooks-and-eyes, and I'll attach my decorative embroidered buckle to the belt with a safety pin for easy removal.

COMING SOON

Left to Right: -
[up]   [finished costume]

My buckle was made from layers of black cotton, duck cloth, and quilters batting, quilted together with black thread and then trimmed close to the outer edge. I mainly used a satin stitch to fill in all of the shapes, cutting the interior cutouts with an exacto knife before finishing the edges like I did the outside ones. To finish the back of the buckle once all of the embroidery was done, I hand-stitched on black wool felt to which I attached a safety pin so that the buckle can be easily removed for cleaning. The last picture shows me modeling the just-finished buckle over my Harry Potter sweater and skirt with a quick approximation of the belt. The color is slightly off due to crappy bathroom lighting.

To see more pictures of the in-progress buckle, including a list of thread colors that I used, step by step embroidery progress, and finishing, click [here].

       

   

Left to Right: quilted base; finished buckle front, back; on me, comparison with original
[up]   [finished costume]

To see more pictures of the finished costume on me and on a dressform, click [here].

COMING SOON

Left to Right: -
[up]

To see the reference images used to make this costume,
check out my Dorme EP2 Goodbye Gown Research.