The Budget Twitcher's Guide
to Birdwatching in Sumatra


Introduction

General Information

Trip Planning Resources &
Contacts


Padang

Keresik Tua

Letter "W" Waterfall

Sungei Sangir

Sungei Penuh

Tapan Road

GENERAL INFORMATION


Beyond the top hotels and the Padang’s Tabing Airport, little English is spoken or understood so it is important to learn the important Bahasa Indonesia phrases before your arrival.

The Internet is available in cafes at most of the larger towns. The going rate at most cafes was 5,000Rp per hour. Handphones are a common sight in towns and not unusual in villages. Getting a signal at populated areas should not be a problem.

In Padang, there are ATMs with PLUS. In the larger banks, you can withdraw rupiah using your VISA card. Keep in mind that some of the larger towns have Western Union outlets for you to receive money in the event of  an emergency.

market at sungei penuhAs in most countries in Asia, expect to bargain for many products and services. Foreigners are expected to pay more so don’t be surprised that the opening offer to you is up to 10x that of the one given to local standing right beside you. Keep your cool when that happens  - It will happen a lot! – and negotiate with a smile. Don’t get offended or plussed as they expect you to bargain. It always helps to know what the locals would pay before before you begin bargaining. The initial price frequently comes down quickly if you persist a little.

After using the toilet, it is an established local practice to “wash up” instead of using toilet paper. So, don’t be surprised if your accommodation does not have toilet paper. A separate hose or scoop will be provided instead. Those who find this way of cleaning up awkward should stock up on toilet paper before staying at mid to budget level accommodation.

Water right out of the tap is not potable. Bottled drinking water is cheap & easily available.

The hygiene standard in Sumatra is different from most parts of the developed world. If one does not take precautions when consuming one’s food, it is easy to fall ill. I subscribe to the BOIL IT, COOK IT, PEEL IT, FORGET IT rule. If any food does not fit either of the first three criteria, just forget about eating it. This simple, yet effective, rule has kept me from getting any sort of stomach upset.

inter-city minibusBudget birders will come to rely on minibuses a lot. They are cheap and convenient. You can flag the minibus down or ask to alight anywhere along its route. There is no need to find a bus-stop. The minibus will leave the terminal when there are enough passengers. Be warned that the drivers love to play techno music at ear-splitting levels. They do this to keep them awake on long drives and also to let potential passengers know that they are arriving. Use earplugs if you value your hearing. Most of the time, when the bus is not full, the ride can be quite pleasant. However, I was once squashed with 25 people in a 12 seater minibus!  That was possible only because the locals were incredibly cooperative and good-natured. They contorted their bodies to make way for the next passenger. Those who boarded later had to sit on other passengers’ laps with their heads pressed against the roof. Also, don’t be surprised to find live chickens wandering under your seat or to be seated next to large sacks of vegetables. To ensure a better chance of getting a comfortable ride, avoid taking trips during peak hours or peak days (eg. eves of public holidays or weekends)

My fieldguide of choice is “Birds of Sumatra, Kalimantan and Java” by John McKinnon, Karen Phillips and Bas Van Balen. Unfortunately, it has been out of print for several years. I had to settle for an Indonesian version of this book, entitled “Burung-Burung di Sumatera, Kalimatan dan Jawa”. Even though the text and descriptions are in Bahasa Indonesia, each bird’s English name is available inside.







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