Day 2

Hike to Waratuk Falls - [portage of our gear and personal effects with the boat around falls: camp at Waratuk Falls]

     
Saturday, March 30th, 2002 - Sunrise. We all slowly awake to the roosters crowing and walking under our hammocks. Boy are they annoying!

Some of my fellow travellers throw on their wet bathing suits for a morning bath while the rest of us opt to change into our hiking gear for the long day head. I figure that I'm going to get dirty again anyway, why bathe now? Plus, the water was cold and it was still raining. Any excuse would do, just pick one.

 

Once our breakfast was thoroughly digested, we took down our hammocks and packed up our gear. We then carried all of our personal effects and gear to the other side of the river. Here, we placed all the items on a speedboat and readied ourselves to trudge into the forest via foot.

 

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Before we enter the forest, Frank outlines the 2 rules he has for us: (1) walk in a single-file line and (2) help and communicate the information he passes down the line to the person behind you. These are very important rules because we're trudging over areas where there are anacondas, leeches, and other creatures who might not be too happy to see us. Before we take off, we all douse ourselves with deet in strategically important places. Grass louse itches like mad and for some reason, they really like getting under your underwear lines! Our adventure begins!

 

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WATER CROSSINGS

It wasn't but 15 minutes to an hour into the hike when we hit our first water crossing. Remember, during this whole hike, it was still raining.

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I actually didn't mind the water crossings that much. We'd walked so fast and so far by the time that we reached them taking a dunk in full gear was completely refreshing. It was only after I returned from the trip that Russell (VSO I work with) asked me if anyone in the group had gotten leeches. It didn't even occur to me to be afraid of anything in the water though someone did remind me during the hike that anacondas can swim! ACK!

 

 

Still, I remember the first time I placed my foot down in mud and said to myself, "COOL. I'm dirty!" It was down hill from there baby! It didn't matter anymore how dirty I got because I'd end up in water anyways.

 

In fact, I remember thinking as I was hiking/speed-walking through the forest, "Wow, if they could only see me now! This is such a change from my picture/interview I did for Cosmopolitan Magazine" right out of Reed College.

 

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I have to admit though that some of the water crossings were rather hazardous and they seemed to increase in hazard as we got closer and closer to Waratuk Falls.

 

As you can see from the pictures to the right and below, we crossed some streams with more than a trickle of water. In fact, there was one stream/river that caught both myself and Pat in its current. Initially, it looked rather serene and I didn't think much of it. Unfortunately, it was deeper than I'd anticipated and I lost my footing. It was touch and go there for a while as I floated down the stream trying to find something to hang onto. If it wasn't for Travis who had also previously lost his footing and regained it again a little ways down the river, both Pat and myself would have been swept into the larger Essequibo to join the fishes and the Cayman. Oh my gosh, Caymen!

 

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Ironically, you don't think of the possibility of loosing your life when you're just trying to cross a stream.

 

BALANCING ACT

Besides the water works, there were other challenges on our trek through the rainforest. Essentially, Frank had to blaze our trail and so much of our 'path' lay along trees that had fallen. They provided 'bridges' for us to cross over some of the water hazards and ravines.

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The picture on the right shows me balancing while attempting to walk across a fallen tree to the other side. The picture to the right below shows Angela attempting to balance while crossing a small ravine. To the left below, Brian is doing a high-wire act. The thing is, ravines might LOOK small and not menacing but they can be deep and contain nasty things like leeches because of the standing water.

 

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THE RAINFOREST VIEW

Don't get me wrong, I was definitely enjoying myself through the entire experience. The foliage was gorgeous and except for the razor grass cuts I received on both my forearms as I passed through some of the swamp areas, I was in surprisingly good shape! The picture below to the right shows one of the amazing vistas we sat upon once we climbed up the side of one of the mountains. You can't tell too much but the trees in front of Travis cover up a sheer drop of several hundred feet. It was beautiful and I was SO GLAD that I'd cut all my nails and tossed my manicure behind me! I had algae and dirt under my nails for weeks afterwards. Still, there's nothing more rewarding than looking back after having climbed up the face of something that seemed impossible at first. Oh, did I mention that there is this spiky tree that likes to grow near the razor grass? So, when you're reaching for something to balance your hike through the water, you have to make sure you aren't reaching for one of these deceivingly spiky trees. Liz cut herself rather badly on one of them. Nasty plants.


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TIME TO REST

There were moments when we got a chance to sit down, catch our breadth, examine any new cuts or abrasions, and for some (like Brian in the picture to the right) wring out our socks.

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The rest area we're using in these pictures is actually a mining camp. The miners erect these poles on which they hang their hammocks to sleep. Gold and diamonds are mined in the deep forests of Guyana. We passed through several mining camps and sites on our way to Kaieteur.

 

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The picture to the far right below shows Monica and Jeff resting on one of the many large fallen trees we came upon in the forest. Click to Enlarge

After we'd walked as far up and along the river as we could walk, a speedboat came to pick us up and take us to Waratuk Falls where we'd make camp for the night.

 

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MAKING CAMP AT WARATUK FALLS

After a long day of hiking, bathing in the river near the falls was absolute heaven! Frank makes dinner to the left in our make-shift accommodations. Again, wooden beams hold up the tarps over our heads while we sleep suspended in mid-air by some cloth and string.

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We all attempted to dry out our clothes, and check our bodies for leeches, bugs, and blisters. It is STILL raining and the downpour picks up as we all climb into our hammocks for a good night's sleep. This time, I made sure that my hammock was closer to the middle of the tents so I wouldn't get soaked as I slept.

 

 
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