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The Princes of Gwynedd
Eight hundred years ago, men of great vision ruled in Gwynedd. Their ambition was to create a modern feudal Welsh state, uniting all the lesser Welsh kingdoms and able to resist the expansionist plans of their English neighbours. They very nearly succeeded, and their dreams and aspirations live on, providing an inspiration to those who have inherited this land.
You are invited to take a journey back in time to their world, to medieval Wales and the Gwynedd of the Princes. Follow in their footsteps and as you explore the various trails, imagine the joys and sorrow of their lives, seven centuries and more ago, before the English conquest.
It begins with a summary of the history of Gwynedd from the departure of the Romans to the accession of Owain Glyndwr, self styled� King of Gwynedd"; from the dramatic developments in the principality during the rule of Llywelyn Fawr (The Great) and his successors to the death of Llywelyn ap Gruffydd in 1282 and its tragic consequences.
The main focus is on the sites, all of which formed a backdrop to the epic drama, which took place some 700-800 years ago in thirteenth century Gwynedd.
Take a journey back in time and discover for yourself the Gwynedd of the Princes.
Birth of a Kingdom
Gwynedd, 400-1200

Around the year
400, after more than 300 years of rule in North Wales, the Romans left for the last time. Their main base at Segontium (Caernarfon) had already been abandoned and local rulers whose successors were to claim legitimacy by alleging they�re decent from Magnus Maximus, the Macsen Wledig of Welsh legend, took their place. Magnus Maximus had been the Roman governor of Britain and in 383 he had led the garrison across the channel in a bid, successful for a time, to become emperor.
Gwynedd Emerges
Between about 400 and 600 the kingdom of Gwynedd emerged. Its dynasty was later to claim decent from a certain Cunedda who it was said had been brought down from what is now the south of Scotland by the Romans to deal with Irish raiders.
The first half of the sixth century is associated with Maelgwyn Gwynedd whose court was at Deganwy and whose sins brought the wrath of the monk and writer Gildas down on his head.
This was also the "age of the saints", leaders of a religious revival particularly associated with the monastic life.
Struggle
The first half of the seventh century saw a struggle between the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Northumbria and Gwynedd for the mastery of the former province of Britain. Cadwallon of Gwynedd allied himself with Penda, the pagan Anglo-Saxon king of Mercia, against Edwin of Northumbria. In 633 the allies defeated and killed Edwin and Cadwallon became the dominant ruler north of the Trent but he was killed a year later near Hadrian�s Wall. The struggle continued for some time but Northumbria emerged victorious and Gwynedd�s bid for supremacy came to an end.
Attack
In the eighth century Mercia, the former ally emerged as the new threat and became the leading Anglo-Saxon power. Several Mercian attacks on Gwynedd followed. At the end of the century, Offa of Mercia built the dyke which bears his name and this marked the final boundary between Wales and England. Mercian attacks continued however and in 822 Deganwy, Maelgwn Gwynedd�s former stronghold was destroyed.
Dynasty
In
825 a new dynasty came to power in Gwynedd following a civil war. The new ruler, Merfyn Frych (the Freckled), founded the royal house, which was to rule until 1283. His court was an important cultural centre, which welcomed Irish scholars on their way to the continent. Merfyn was succeeded in 844 by his son Rhodri Mawr (the great) who brought much of Wales under his rule although this did not survive him. He was regarded as a powerful ruler who succeeded in the face of threats from both Saxons and Vikings. It was during the ninth century that Viking raids on Wales began. The first recorded raid was in 853. Gwynedd, being so near to one of the centres of Viking power in Dublin, was particularly vulnerable, but Rhodri was usually able to hold his own.
Power Struggles
In England the kings of Wessex were emerging as the most powerful rulers and the beginnings of a single English kingdom is usually dated to
954. Athelstan of Wessex was able to impose a kind of over lordship on the Welsh rulers and to exact tribute from them, and Gwynedd came under the rule of the south Wales king, Hywel Dda (the Good), grandson of Rhodri Mawr. Like his grandfather before him Hywel also succeeded in creating a degree of unity within Wales.
After Hywel`s death in
950 all the Welsh kingdoms saw a succession of power struggles and the Vikings came back. In Gwynedd, Penmon was raided in 971 and Clynnog in 978.
Gruffydd ap Llywelyn
In
1039 Gruffydd ap Llywelyn, whose father Llywelyn ap Seisyll had ruled Gwynedd for a time, (1018-1023), came to power in Gwynedd and Powys. Gruffydd brought more of Wales under his rule than any other Welsh ruler before or after him. But Gruffydd became involved in English politics and was seen as a major threat by Harold Godwinson, earl of Wessex, the most powerful man in England, who was seeking to succeed the childless Edward the Confessor. He led two campaigns against Gruffydd. In 1063 or 1064 his own men killed Gruffydd and his head sent to Harold.
Conquest
1066 saw the Norman Conquest of England, within a few years the Normans had reached the Anglo-Welsh border and William the Conqueror established three earldoms there. Hugh of Avranches or Huw Fras (the Fat) became Earl of Chester and, following the capture and imprisonment of Gruffydd ap Cynan, the king of Gwynedd, Hugh�s cousin Robert of Rhuddlan began to move into North Wales. When the Doomsday book was compiled in 1086 Robert appears to have been recognised by King William as ruler of Gwynedd.
Gruffydd escaped in
1094 and the Welsh killed Robert. Earl Hugh now advanced into Gwynedd, buildings castles at Bangor, Caernarfon and Anglesey, but the Welsh hit back. William Rufus led two abortive invasions and in 1098 a massive campaign against Gruffydd, led by the earls of Chester and Shrewsbury, ended when a Norwegian fleet appeared on the scene and Earl Hugh of Shrewsbury was killed.
Power
Gruffydd ap Cynan and his sons were able to extend the borders of Gwynedd and under one of these sons, Owain Gwynedd, who succeeded in
1137; the foundations were laid for the emergence of Gwynedd as the leading Welsh power. Owain led Gwynedd on a course of expansion and by 1166, for the first time in 100 years; Gwynedd�s eastern boundary had reached the Dee estuary. In 1165 Owain and his fellow rulers had successfully withstood a massive invasion by Henry II.
Following Owain`s death in
1170 the leadership of native Wales passed to Ragweed (Lord) Rhys of the southern kingdom of Deheubarth who developed a successful working relationship with Henry II. When he died in 1197, Llywelyn ap Iorwerth, Owain`s grandson, had already begun his rise to power and Gwynedd soon resumed that predominant position in Wales which it would retain until the Edwardian Conquest.
During the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, the Princes of Gwynedd forged the core of a vigorous Welsh community, preserving its own laws, customs, culture and language.
The Princes had clear objectives-to unite the Welsh lordships and princedoms under one leader and to preserve their way of life against the encroaching power of the English kings and Marcher lords. Gwynedd was regarded as the most powerful of the independent principalities.
Although protective of their ancient culture and their community the princes were not provincial and backward looking, their courts (Llysoedd) were places of culture and vibrancy, with regular contact with other European countries.
The age of the princes has been described as one of the most dramatic periods in the history of Wales. Who were these dynamic leaders? How successful were they in achieving their objectives?
Five princes ruled Gwynedd over a period of some 120 years,
they were:
Owain Gwynedd -- 1137 - 1170
Llywelyn Fawr. -- 1201 - 1240
Dafydd ap Llywelyn-- 1240 - 1246
Llywelyn ap Gruffydd-- 1255 - 1282
Dafydd ap Gruffydd-- Dec 1282 - June 1283
From Triumph to Disaster
Gwynedd in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries
Owain Gwynedd
Gwynedd had been severely tested in the 1090`s by determined Norman attacks. Their intention was to secure a total conquest of the principality, But the Welsh fought back and Gwynedd became a strong base under the dynamic leadership of Owain Gwynedd, son of Gruffydd ap Cynan.
"1170-At the close of that year, in the month of November, died Owain Gwynedd ap Gruffydd ap Cynan, Prince of Gwynedd, a man of great renown and of infinite prudence and nobility, the bulwark and the strength of Wales, unconquered from his youth, after victories beyond number".
Brut y Tywysogyn
As well as strengthening Gwynedd, Owain also extended his power to other parts of Wales and his kingdom reached as far as the outskirts of Chester.
Henry II was keenly aware of Owain`s power and sought to extinguish it but although Owain was forced to yield to the king and obliged to pay homage to him in
1157 he succeeded in retaining his hold on most of the land he had consolidated.
Henry again tried to weaken Owain`s power and influence in
1165 but his onslaught proved a failure and he was forced to return to England empty handed.
Owain built on his success during the following years and by the time of his death in
1170 he controlled all of North Wales, and most of the west and south.
He called himself "Rex", King of Wales, during his leadership but during his final years referred to himself as "prince Wallensium", prince of the Welsh people, a title that suggests he considered himself leader of the country as a whole.
Owain Gwynedd paved the way for the thirteenth century Princes of Gwynedd who were able to build on the solid foundation he laid. They were to go on to develop and maintain a large measure of independence from England.
Llywelyn Fawr 1201 - 1240
Llywelyn, grandson of Owain Gwynedd, was born in 1173, probably at Dolwyddelan. In 1194 Llywelyn defeated his uncle, Dafydd, whom the English authorities regarded as Owain Gwynedd�s successor. He went on to claim the rest of Gwynedd following the death of his cousin, Gruffydd, in 1200. By the following year, he was master of the principality.
Llywelyn swore an oath of allegiance to King John in
1201 and at first their relationship was a cordial one, Llywelyn marrying King John�s daughter, Joan, in 1205.
During the following years, Llywelyn extended his authority in Wales by gaining land in various parts of the country. But although he was careful not to antagonise his father-in-law he faced a ferocious attack by him in
1211 when he stormed across the Conwy to Aber and Bangor which was burned, Llywelyn was forced to surrender and his authority severely curtailed.
But he quickly recovered, exploiting King John�s struggle with his barons and regained and increased his power. In
1215 he even captured the important town of Shrewsbury.
After King John�s death in
1216, Llywelyn faced a less formidable English king, his brother-in-law, Henry III, and during the following quarter of a century both remained on generally friendly terms.
During the last 20 years of his life, Llywelyn dominated and led most of native Wales (Pura Wallia), dealing without too much difficulty with Henry III`s somewhat half hearted attempts to assert his authority.
Llywelyn`s ability to develop and increase the military and economic strength within Wales is considered to be a key factor in his success.
Llywelyn died in April
1240 having succeeded 20 years earlier in gaining Henry III`s support for he feudal rule of succession. This stated that a single heir should inherit his father�s estate rather than dividing it among the sons of the deceased ruler. Llywelyn and Joan�s son, Dafydd, therefore succeeded him
End of 1211 after the battle with King John
"1211- and after that, about the Calends of August, the king (John) returned to Wales in fiercer mood and with a larger host, and he built many castles in Gwynedd. And across the river Conwy he went towards the mountains of Eryri. And he incited some of his host to burn Bangor...
And then Llywelyn, being unable to suffer the oppression of the king, by the council of his leading men, sent to the king his wife, who was daughter to the king, to make peace between him and the king on whatsoever terms she could".

Brut y Tywysogyn
"1215 - And then Llywelyn ap Iorwerth and the Welsh made for Shrewsbury; and without resistance the town and castle were surrendered to him".
Brut y Tywysogyon
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