Pilot Log Version 4.0

Question:
What year did ... Citizen start using non-radioactive lume material?

Answer:
Citizen ceased the use of radioactive materials on the dials and hands September 1998. Any timepiece produced after that time would have non radioactive luminous deployed.

Dials with radiactive luminous can be identified with a 'P' preceeding the dial number at the 6:00 position, while an 'N' will indicate non radioactive luminous. Any other letter would also indicate non radioactive luminous.

While cased in the watch, no radioactivity can be traced outside the watch using regulatory agency approved testing methods. Even if exposed directly to the dials and/or hands, such as through disassembly of the watch, you would have to literally be exposed to hundreds of dials and hands all at the same time in order to have any exposure concerns at all.

Sincerely
Customer Service
COA [Citizen Watches of America]

I got there early at 7:15am and a race was starting at 7:30am. So I got myself ready, go to the start line. During the whole time, nobody mentioned anything about whats the distance for the race ...

So the race started, and I followed, keeping my own 10k pace. At about half of my target time, I saw the start/finish line again and I thought to myself that we are going to 2 loops of the same route ... but I felt weird seeing people stopped at the finish line, nobody continue to run ... After a bit of confusion, finally somebody told me that it was the 5k race that I was running, and the 10k race start right after the 5k ... -_-'

As a result, I had a nice 5k warm up before my 10k race began. Luckily, I got a nice ~15 min break before the 10k start (and I gotta change my running gears and shoes to adapt to the running surface and condition!). Long story short, I finished the 10k race after my 5k warm up, but I blew my target time of 1hr. I finished the 10k in 1:00:17 (1hr, 0 min and 17 sec). And I finished my 5k "warm up" in less than 25 min (I didn't stop my stopwatch cause I wasn't expect myself to stop at the time). The winning time for the male 10k race was 40 minutes and change. I ranked 14th over all (14/40 some runners) and 3rd in my everybody-win-something group ... ops, i meant my age group.

The race was mostly trail/semi-muddy surface (it rained the night before) and was slightly hilly. It was still fun, and I am glad that I made it home in one piece. And it was a good run (despite my total of 15k race and was being slightly sick) and I wasn't far away from a half-marathon (15k is about 3/4 of a half-marathon). :p

I am looking forward for more fun race/run (some are already in the planning). :-)

Quotes from Randy Pausch's last lecture:

• "Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted"
• "Brick walls are there for a reason: they let us prove how badly we want things"
• "We can't change the cards that we are dealt, just how we play it"
• "When you screw up and nobody is saying anything to you anymore, that means they gave up"
• "Luck is preparation meets opportunity"

I am wearing my G9000-1V Mudman today, and as usual, I am throwing in my $0.02 (since I haven't done so)

+ dual illuminator is bright and nice to read
+ dual 1000hr chronograph (1000hr is more than i need but having 2 chronograph can be handy some time)
+ buttons are easy to press for a mud resist bezel (much better than the old ones)
+ comfortable to wear (good ventilation)

- current time not shown in chronograph mode (once the chrono starts, but the current time will appear if the chrono is reset)
- not really negative but just being picky (i wished the buttons are grey instead of red, the tail of the strap is slightly long, being tough solar would have been nice, wished the red/blue section of the LCD is a difference color)

I finally receive my G-Shock GW810D-1V from a seller on ebay. The watch was in worse condition than the seller described on the auction. The bracelet has plenty of scratches and far from "being gentlely used". The rest of watch is in decent shape. And of course, the "scratch free" crystal has some marks on it. Anyway, for the price that I paid for, I guess I couldn't ask for more. Afterall, its a G-Shock. Its meant to be beaten up. And the watch works 100% (just as I expect from a G-Shock), I just wished the outside is in a little better condition. But I digress ("you get what you paid for" is true ... at least most of time :p ). I will use it as a beater and continue its life of hardship. :p Nonetheless, I can still commend on the design and the functionality of the watch:

+ easy to read for a negative LCD (under most light condition)
+ accept atomic signal from any available tower (i.e. Japan 40 & 60, USA 60, UK 60, Germany 77.5)
+ 1000hr chronograph
+ low profile, comfortable and easy to wear for normal size wrist

- the thickness of the end link of the bracelet and the lugs doesn't really match up (bracelet being too thin)
- the lugs look a little too "plasticy"
- only 60 min CDT
- still not convinced on the "4-eye" (use of dial space) to display successful atomic signal information
- doesn't show date and day of the week at the same time in current time mode
- doesn't show current time in chronograph mode

+ thinnest (low profile) G-Shock so far (11mm thick)
+ easy to read digits
+ EL duration can be set for either 1.5 sec or 3 sec (mine is always on 3 sec auto EL)

- only 60 min STW & CDT
- buttons too recessed and can be hard to press sometimes
- doesn't show date and day of the week at the same time in current time mode
- doesn't show current time in STW & CDT modes

+ light weight & rust resistant titanium caseback and strap screws
+ 24hr STW & CDT
+ big and easy to press buttons
+ bright dual illuminator that light up the whole dial
+ nice size + soft strap for normal wrist size
+ factory claimed 7 yr battery life (CR2025)

- knobs on the strap dig into the size of the wrist
- moon phase graph recessed and can be hard to see
- can't tell if the watch is on 24hr or am/pm mode until after 13:00/1:00pm
- it takes a brief pause for the next watch mode to be ready when changing modes
- doesn't show current time in STW and CDT mode

I thought Sinn U1 1000m was a keeper. I liked it, but I guess I didn't like it enough to keep it. :p I can't find much complain about the Sinn U1 and I still think its a good deal for a dive watch with all the technology that has been put into the watch (submarine steel case, super hardened bezel, super hardened AR coating on crystal, etc). And I like tool/mil style diver. Unfortuniately, all these didn't helped me keep the watch. It may also be all the talks about the upcoming U chronograph, black U2, black 757 & 857, etc. There's already a special limited edition black U1, but I would wait for a black 22mm bracelet to go with the watch, and I don't want to pay for the extra $$$ for a special edition (when there are more black edition coming). :p A black 857 would be interesting, and I hope Sinn will change the 24hr marking on the dial to a lighter color to distinquish them from the normal hour markers (just like U2).

2 more Casio G-Shock gone to make room for 3 new ones :p. GW530A & DW8700 are gone and G9100-1 Gulfman (Titanium bits w/ tide graph and moonphase), GL7000-RF (basically a black metal G2310) and GW400J-1 (atomic solar w/ vibration alarm, tide graph and moonphase).

I have finally found a now-out-of-stock Leef C-C 2 x 18650 body + SF C2 bezel + SF SW02 tail cap. And also, I got myself a Leef Fenix P1D CE clicky body and turn my P1D CE into one of my favourite light (put in a RCR123 and you got over 100 lumen in a small package).

I think I will continue to sell off some watches and light parts ... to fund new incoming new ones :D

The G-Shock G9000 Mudman has become one of my favourite latesly. Its just comfortable to wear, full of userful function, buttons are easy to press for a mud resistant case, etc.

The G-Shock G9000-1V Mudman can be called a space watch! A Casio G-Shock G9000-1V Mudman was worn by Astronaut Charlie Hobaugh aboard Space Shuttle Endeavour (STS 118) during the August 2007 mission to the International Space Station. (STS-118 Shuttle Mission Imagery by NASA)

I bought a new Nikon 12-24mm f4 (Nikon 12-24mm f/4G IF-ED AF-S DX Zoom) lens. There's also a 77mm UV filter/protector is incoming for it. Sometimes I find the 18mm wide kit lens of my D80 doesn't give me the "whole" picture. Hopefully, this new lens will give me some new [wide] "angle".

And I finally located a Leef clicky body for my Fenix P1D CE. P1D CE is a great little light, and the clicky switch should make it even more user friendly (especially with one-hand operation)

On a sad note, I blew out my SSC tower for Surefire KT turbo head. I was running it with 2 x protected RCR123 for maybe about 15 min (or less). I guess heat has gotten the LED and it just gave out. I can see a crack across the LED. Now I have to face the decision of either selling it as it or do a DIY LED replacement (which I have never done before and I don't even know if I have time to do it).

on a brighter note, more of my "exchange" of watches ... :

• Sold Stowa Seatime Prodiver (really liked it, but proven to be slightly too big) and G-Shock DW8600 Fisherman.
• Bought Casio Pathfinder PAG40 (just for the heck of it cause its a big watch), G-Shock GW056 (thin and not bulky) and G-Shock G9000 Mudman (had one before, sold it by mistake, bought another back, still a JDM version with WR20BAR marking on the dial)
• Looking to buy, G91000 Gulfman? GW810D Multi Band 5 Atomic Solar? G77x0 1/1000 sec chronograph? and maybe some watch cases/boxes to organize my collection. :)

In exchange, I got a bunch of flashlight LEGO parts)

• Surefire E1E body + McClickie tailcap + Leef E-C adapter (mated with my SF C2 bezel + Creed drop-in to create a pocket rocket)
• Leef 18650 E head C body tube + Leef E-C adapter (too bad the Leef 18650 C-C body is sold out :( my alternative is the E head C tail body + E-C adapter to create a Leef C-C body for slightly more money ... ) + SSC P4 tower for Surefire KT turbo head (mated with my Surefire KT1 + Z48 tailcap to create a SSC P4 Surefire with turbo head)

Pro Trek Triple Sensor Direction, Altitude, Barometric Pressure, and Temperature Readings (PRT-40C)

• Electro-luminescent backlight
• Auto light switch
• Digital compass Measures and displays the direction in 16 directions.
  Measuring range: 0° to 359°
  Measuring unit: 1°
  Memory capacity: 5 sets of measurement
  data with direction, month, date and measurement time.
  Abnormal magnetic field detect function
  Bidirectional calibration and northerly calibration function
• Altimeter
  Measuring range: 0m to 4,000m (0 ft to 13,120 ft)
  Display unit: 5 m (20 ft)
  Auto-memory function (up to 50 sets of altitude memory with month, date, time and temperature)
  Target altitude alarm
  Graph display for the target altitude.
  Altitude tendency graph
  Changeover between meters (m) and feet (ft)
• Barometer
  Measuring range: 610 hPa to 1,100 hPa (18.00inHg to 32.45inHg) Display unit: 1hPa (0.05 inHg)
  Tendency graph display of atmospheric pressure
  Changeover between hPa and inHg
• Thermometer
  Measuring range: -10°C to 60°C (14°F to 140°F)
  Display unit: 0.1°C (0.2°F)
  Changeover between Celsius (°C) and Fahrenheit (°F)
• 1/100 sec. stopwatch Measuring capacity: 23:59'59.99"
  Measuring mode: Net time, split time, 1st-2nd place times
• 5 daily alarm
• Hourly Time signal
• Regular timekeeping: Hr, min, sec, pm, yr, month, date, day
• Auto calendar (Pre-programmed until the year 2039)
• 12/24-hour formats
• Accuracy: ±15 seconds per month
• Battery: Appr. 18 months on SR927W x 2
• Size of case 51.5x56.3x15.9mm/55g

+ looks great as a mil style UTC watch, I really like the big numbers and 4 o'clock date.
+ low[er] profile [than Sinn U1]
+ copper sulfate absorbing capsules to stay dry inside of the watch
+ lume triangle (I like this better than lume dot) on the bezel
+ Tegimented case that's highly scratch resistant

- the dial is too busy with the 24hr UTC and the 12hr markers being the same color (at least U2 has red 24hr UTC markers and white 12hr markers). Its less easy to read than a clean dial (like the U1)
- the shorter bezel is [more] difficult to turn [than an U1's bezel]
- lume is not diver standard (I know the 857 is not a diver, but I find diver's good lume more to my liking)

So far, the Stowa Seatime Prodiver has given no surprised. Its big and heavy. And its too big for my wrist by just a bit (which I don't care cause its such a great watch :p ). Next, I want to source some thick 22mm leather strap for it.

• Sold my Casio G-Shock GW200RB "Black spot" Frogman. Just not enough wrist time to keep the huge capacity rechargeable battery filled. Currently I am GW200-Frogman-less. Since Casio has been updating some of the Master (Mudman and Gulfman) recently, maybe Frogman will get a make over later on as well.
• a Doxa SUB 750T Sharkhunter edition come and gone very quickly. Though I like the deep black dial and retro style, I find myself drawn to mil or tool style (i.e. Marathon, Sinn, Stowa, etc) more so that the retro Doxa style. On top of that, the mis-match of lume brightness on dial markers and hands turned me away from the watch. The sharkhunter was a nice watch, just not my style.
• Bought a Timex trail runner GPS + HRM (T5C391). Its a good toy for riding bikes and running outside, especially now that I am want to get some info on my heard rate during exercise.
• Bought a Sinn 857 UTC (currently wearing on 22mm NATO). Its still under my "evaluation period" to see if I will keep it. But the lower profile (12.x mm) and slightly smaller top to bottom (lug to lug) size are nice change from the big and tall U1.
• Bought a Stowa Seatime Prodiver melon dial with black hands. I haven't sized it to fit yet but this watch is huge and heavy! I will determine is the size will work after I've sized and worn it. I think the construction is great. I can't wait to try it on.
• Bought a Casio G-Shock GW530A-1V
• Bought a Casio G-Shock GW330A-1V both have same module but different style. I can't decide on which one, so I got both. :p
• RCR123 + 18650 rechargeable batteries should be here, so i can enjoy guilt-free lumen :)
• Bought a Dexlight X.V Cree 5-Mode 1xAA Flashlight, I thought it would be fun to try this one, it look good on paper :p

• "The indication "T Swiss made T" means that the watch is Swiss and contains a certain quantity of tritium that emits less than 227 MBq (7,5 mCi).The indication "Swiss T<25" means that the watch is Swiss and contains a certain quantity of tritium that emits less than 925 MBq (25 mCi)." (http://www.fhs.ch/en/faq.php)
• Nuclide Safety Data Sheet on Hydrogen-3 by Environmental Health & Safety - Emory University

• Case: 316L steel, 41mm (diameter) x 48mm (length) x 14mm (height including bezel)
• Lug: 20mm, drilled
• Bezel: 316L steel, 120-click, lume triangle
• Bracelet: 316L steel, links secured by floating double screw and include 14 full links with diver extension
• Crystal: 2.8mm sapphire, flat
• movement: ETA-2824, 25 jeweled, automatic movement with "MARATHON WATCH CO." signed rotor, hacking, handwindable, quick-set date and 28,800 bph.
• Dial: 27.7mm
• Lume: non-radioactive "Maraglo" (Marathon's term for Luminova)
• WR: 30ATM (~300m/1000ft, 1 ATM=33 ft/10.06 m).
• caseback engraving:
  • Watch, Wrist, Dive 30ATM = Nomenclature/noun-item identification system, waterproof (water resistance) depth rating measured in atmospheres (1 ATM=33 ft/10.06 m).
  • ISO 6425 = International Standards Organization (ISO) 1996 standard for diver’s watches.
  • 6645-21-558-0133 = NATO Stock Number; 66 indicates designation group, 45 indicates Class of material, 21 - country code for Canada, 558-0133 is the NATO Item Identification Number.
  • WW 194006 = Manufacture's Part Number.
  • 38776 = NATO Commercial and Government Entity code; here indicating Marathon Watch Company.
  • W8482-xxxxxxxxxx = Procurement Instrument Identification Number
  • MAY 2006 = Date of Contract Award.
  • SER: xxxx = Instrument Serial Number.

• Seiko Brightz SAGN007 (too dressy since I wear sports watch almost all the times)
• Seiko SBBN007 300M Marinemaster Quartz Diver Tuna (I bought this because i thought I would like it with 20mm monster bracelet, but I ended up don't like it that much)
• Casio G-Shock G5700L (not enough wrist time)

Casio G-Shock DW6100CF (white/grey camouflage) is off to the new owner. Great looking G-Shock, I just never find myself wanting to wear it.

Machine translation of the design theme behind the "Rock & Native"

Through the psychedelic lock, the flower movement which spread. LOVE & PEACE as for the message which appeals “love and peace”, those which are learned from Indian mother nature. Making such psychedelic lock and American native motif, Rock & Native. The design which designates the leather which symbolizes the American lock as accent. The feather which is symbol of Indian peace is treated in the band. of the alligator which

• MSRP: Yen$19,000
• Production Year: 1997
• Shock Resistant and WR 20BAR
• Tele memo: 30 records (8 characters & 12 numbers)
• Chronograph: 24 hr, 1/100 sec, splite
• Countdown Timer: 24 hr, 1/10 sec
• Alarm & Sig
• Fully auto calender
• Dual time
• 12/24 hr mode
• Low temperature resistant (-20 °C)
• Auto EL with after glow
• Dimension: 48.5×47.0×15.8mm / 60g

well, big watches certainly caught on and I am at no exception. Ever since I got my Sinn U1 (@ 44mm bezel diameter, 34mm crystal diameter) my Marathon SAR seemed a little under-size (@ slight less than or just 42mm bezel diameter, 31mm crystal diameter). Snd the Sinn U1 quickly gained the most wrist time.SInn U1 is already pressing the watch size (lug to lug/top to bottom @ ~50mm) that my wrist can handle. anything bigger is just scary. But at the same time, that didn't stop me from getting a Seiko Sumo (SBDC001) 200m automatic diver with the new 6R15 hackable and handwindable movement (@ ~52mm lug to lug size with slightly curved lugs). So hopefully the curved lugs will makes the 52mm lug to lug size case fit my wrist.

I've gotten a Sinn rubber strap for my Sinn U1, but within the first 5 min of sizing it and wearing it. I found that I like the bracelet so much that I switched back to bracelet. And within the next several hours, I have the rubber strap. That was a quick turn around, but at least I've got to try the rubber strap on and figure out its not for me. So next will be trying to see if I can find some good thick leather strap that works well with the U1.

I have missed the Seiko 300m tuna (SBBN007) quartz diver ever since I sold it. There's something about the 300m tuna that I can't forget. I came around some great pic of the 300m Tuna with Seiko monster (SKX779) bracelet (20mm at the lugs for monster bracelet and it needs two (2) 1mm spacer to make it work with the 22m lugs of 300m tuna). I was pushed over the edge by those pic and I am getting another one back. :D

I have not given up on G-Shocks! (Never!) Even though I have gotten rid of a few G-Shocks (DW6100CF G-Python (Jungle Green camouflage) & Casio G-Shock DW6600 GTR edition). I got another one back (DW003RB-5T Rock Native with a brown leather strap and metals strap retaining ring (band loop))

I just can't say enough good things about the Casio Pathfinder triple sensor PAW1300T titanium band. The watch is nice, light and comfortable despite the huge size, has a serious watch looks with the titanium band, its feature rich and it sync with atomic signal very well. Its true an all-in-one package.

And I am hooked on the Sinn U1. It's heavy and at 44mm, a huge presence. The strange thing is that after wearing the U1, anything smaller than 44mm seems small to me. E.g., I used to think my Marathon SAR is on the slightly large side of watches. But now, I think the SAR is on the slightly small side of [big] watches?! SAR still makes more sense of being a complete package (easy to read, comfy, great lume, well built). But the U1 just more on the sense on a emotional level :p (easy to read, tough U-boat steel, huge and heavy, due AR coated). The lume on U1 does last all nights, but it lacks the fire power of either SAR or Seiko diver on the initial brightness. And the U1 on bracelet does get so heavy sometimes that I have to take the watch off to give my wrist a rest. :p

I finally got my Cree XE-R powered drop-in replacement for Surefire P series lamp assembly. The fit and finish was ok. Its not pretty but it gets the job done. The output is bright and have decent sidespill. My guest would be the output is right around that of a P61 HOLA (120 lumen). Since I have had P61 for a while, the output doesn't "wow" me in the sense of the amount of output. But its nice to know that the output will be relatively constant for about an hour, instead of the 20 min of decreasing output in the case of P61 HOLA. To really makes me "wow", I need something around 200 lumen in a small package. :D The other good thing about the Cree drop-in is that I have use different battery setup with it, since the input voltage is 3V - 9V. This works well for my future rechargeable purchase plan (18650 and 3.7V RCR123A).

Big change in my life coming up soon. Things are not going to be the same ... in a good way. :)

Then what came in is a Sinn U1 1000m diver's watch (with bracelet and rubber), Casio Pathfinder triple sensor PAW1300T (with titanium bracelet), and a Casio G-Shock MRG1100 Frogman (with all titanium construction, the only frogman with metal bracelet as of the time of writing).

So net changes in number of watch is: zero :D

• SEIKO Automatic Alpinist SARB017 is sold pending funds (I can't love with the timing bezel or chronograph :p )
• Sad but true, I will probably let go of the Seiko Landmaster Kinetic (SBDW005) as well cause I just don't wear it enough to justify keeping it. I *might* wish I didn't sell it later on though.
• Casio G-Shock AWG-500BJ-4AJF is sold.
• Got a Damasko DC-66 but its too big (the bezel and dial is even bigger than then Seiko Flightmaster (SBDS001), which is pretty much the upper limit in size of what my wrist can handle. So I have to let it go.
• SureFire A2 is sold cause not putting it into good use
• Surefire should go too cause of the next item
• I bought a Surefire C2 HA body bored to 18mm to accept 18650 Li Ion rechargeable Cell
• I will probably sell of the Surefire C3 body (I need to bezel and tail cap for the bored C2 body).
• As usual, I have a couple of watches and flashlights on my watch list ... :p

Then the G-Shock DW9100 Riseman (black with red letter) is off to the new rightful owner, which is expected to see some good use.

I have been keeping my eye on the Omega Planet Ocean lately. I am still reading up on it, I don't know if that would be my next watch. :p

I am also considering cleaning up/reorganizing my flashlight collection. I have a few ideas on what I am going to do with them. So we'll see.

I've bought a G-Shock "GIEZ" GS-1000BJ-1AJF (all black all analog atomic solar with rubber strap) and a G-SHock DW8600 Fisherman (cause its a Master of G and I never had one before, it has moon phase, tide graph and themometer).

And as a result, I let go of my Seiko Orange Monster SKX781 (for the n-th time, more times than I could remember, lol :D Great lume, unfortuniately I just got spoiled by the hackable and hand windable movements and couldn't live with the 7S series movement anymore :p ) and then sold my G-Shock DW6600B and DW6000 1/1000 chronograph (both doesn't have much wrist time at all).

I am still waiting for the release of Casio Pathfinder PAW1300 .. :drool:

Busy is not an excuse for not buying new toys, so here they are :D

• Bought a Fenix P1D CE in black HA, its great with 3 multi output level, along with strobe and SOS function. The max output level have about 130 lumen (with about 40 min to 50% brightness) in a tiny package, how good is that! :) and the normal output has the same (maybe slightly brighter) output as (than) the Fenix P1 but twice the run time! The P1D CE will be my primary EDC light. I still keep my P1 so that I can lend it to people (and not having to worry too much about losing it). The CE is not the perfect light (close but no). The gap between the head and the body when its off is little more than I would like to see, also the beam is just a big "ring-y". Well these doesn't bother me too much, but I do have to pick on something. :p
• A bunch of Surefire turbo head lamp assembly arrived. Now I am waiting for a turbo head (KT? for C series or M3T head with M2C adapter) and some Li Ion rechargeables to play plug and play light LEGO. :D
• I like the Marathon SAR so much that I had to do a "upgrade" when the right opportuniate present itself. I end up with a May 2006 contract Marathon SAR and sold my early 2004 contract one. For sure the 2006 contract SAR has metal movement retention ring, 120 click on the bezel, and better lume. The lume seems to be either double coated or they put in white blackground under the painted lume, cause they look more solid on the dial. But as a result, the lume on the hands doesn't quite match up with the white board color. It doesn't really bother me cause the lume is just fantastic! The 2004 SAR is great and the 2006 SAR is GREAT(!!). :D One thing that I don't like about the 2006 SAR is the font on the date wheel. Its now more Roman than Arial (on the 2004 SAR). That's a small complain. Also the watch is running at about +15 sec / day now. Hopefully, it will settle down a little bit after its broken in. But no biggie, I can always get the watch regulated, change the date wheel and stuff.
• Also bought a SEIKO Automatic Alpinist SARB017. The green dial changes shade with different lighting and the gold markers and hand is a great contrast. It looks great with dark brown strap, and I am still hoping that I can find a bracelet for it. The new 6R15 movement can be hand winded and hacked (which is nice) but it doesn't *feel* as nice as the upper end Seiko hand windable Movement (e.g. 8L35, 6S37, etc). Also the hour lume dot on the dial are all the same, so you won't be able to tell which dot is 12 o'clock in complete darkness with watch away from you. And I wish they have drilled lugs. It may not looks as nice, but it makes it so much easier to do strap change. :)
• I also sold the Casio Triple Sensor PAW1200. Why you may ask? Cause Casio just announced the new PAW1300, with all the function of PAW1200 in a smaller case, and also includes 24 hr in stopwatch and countdown timer. That's the 2 main complain from me about the PAW1200. Glad to see that Casio step up and make some great improvement on the atomic solar triple sensor. I only hope that Casio will do the same for the atomic solar G-Shocks.

In order to brighten up my light collection, I have incoming a Surefire C3 HA with both P90 and P91 lamp assemblies, and a SC1 spare carrier. And why stop there? I've also bought the lamp assemblies from M3T (both low and high output) and M6 (both low and high output), and a SC2 spare carrier so that I can play "LEGO" light later on. I am also planning some protected Li Ion batteries (18650, 17670, 17550, R123 etc), 18mm body for 2 x 18650 batteries (hopefully I can fire up the M6 LA with this configuration), KT1/2 turbo head to use the LA's in the C series body. And a new Cree XR-E module for P series SF LA. Maybe also other bits for LEGO. :)

I've the Marathon SAR to be a real surprise, surprisingly good that is. Though I've heard great things about them before, but I didn't really buy into them until I got one for my own. The SAR is just so easy to read, easy to use, comfortable to wear and everything just makes sense (ok, maybe not cyclopes, I found that in most cases, the cyclopes made reading the date more difficult when I am not looking down from straight). The dial is big and the markers are easy to read, the lume works for 8 hrs plus, the bezel is easy to operation, hand windable and hackable is a major plus. What surprises me the most is how comfortable it is when wearing SAR with bracelet. Its probably just my odd wrist size (which changes as the weather gets hot or cold), but the SAR on bracelet is just a joy to wear any time regardless of weather (and I never have to take the watch off for a "break"). Owning a SAR makes me a fan.

Anyway, since I am happy with the Marathon SAR, I am looking more into flashlight lately for the toy purchase. :-) I sold one of my idling Fenix P1 (natural HA) to prepare for something bigger, brighter ... :D (I still have a Fenix P1 in black HA as my bright and small EDC light)

I am getting an external HD as my HD on my PC is filling up quick (the D80 with 10MP photo is definitely not helping the situation, haha~) :p

Anyway, with the Seiko Marinemaster, I would have the collection of Air (Flightmaster auto chronograph), Sea (Marinemaster MM auto) and Land (Landmaster Kinetic) Masters from Seiko. So ... a master for anywhere I go? :p LOL

A lot of new toys, here's what I got at the end of 2006 and the very beginning of 2007:

Watches:

• Casio G-Shock DW2500
• Casio G-Shock DW9052
• Casio G-Shock GW5600BJC (with reverse display, rubber coat bracelet)
• Casio G-Shock DW6200 (Vintage model with 1/1000 chronograph)
• Marathon SAR (2004 contract, sapphire crystal, WR 300M, ETA 2824 automatic movement)

• Fenix P1 #1 (Black HA)
• Fenix P1 #2 (Natural HA)
• Fenix L2T (Black HA with optional CR123A battery tube)