We couldnt, so Katie and I went for a milanesa in El Galeon, a cafe on the corner while Jay went off to find out whether his flight was running or not.

Meanwhile, Katie and I killed time by doing some last minute shopping for tacky End of the World merchandise and a copy in English of Bruce Chatwins Patagonia book. Found lots of the former, mainly with penguins on them (even though there are no penguins here at the moment!), but no copy of the latter.

Said goodbye to Katie and went back to the hostel, where Jay turned up soon after to say that his flight was going to be running, so we did our goodbyes as well.

That left me with a day or so alone in Ushuaia, and not a great deal of cash.

I filled a while on Wednesday afternoon with a visit to the Yamana Miniature Museum (sadly the race of people who used to live in Ushuaia are now stuck in my head as being the Yamaha). Another absolutely fascinating museum, with loads of small friezes and descriptions of the Yamana.

After wandering around for a few more hours and having a siesta, I went out for dinner on my own, visiting the pasta place that we had been to for lunch yesterday and watching the football on the telly.

Well, I thought it was football on the tv. Actually, it was another one of those games where they dont have the rights to show the match, so just broadcast the commentary and the crowd reactions. Bizarre! At home, of course, you can listen to the commentary, in a busy restaurant, you cant. Pah.

Upon arriving back at the hostel, I went to watch the end of the football and ran into the American, Matt, who explained that he was a film student. Hmm. Film student here during film festival. He knew nothing about it, but as I was planning on watching another film (didnt know what was on) and both of our Spanish was just about passable to watch movies, we finished his bottle of wine and wandered back over to the cinema.

We got there just before it started, and found a queue snaking round the corner (inside, obviously, still bitterly cold out). I headed to the counter where we were told that there were no more tickets. Gutted.

Then I saw Fernando coming out of the previous film and explained our dilemma. He couldnt help us, but a woman passing by explained that she had some spares (they were free anyway), so she donated them to us. Cool.

Then I went to find out which film it was. The same actor was there as the night before. Then it clicked. He was there promoting the film in which I had seen him in Trelew - Luna de something or other.

Ah well, we had tickets now, so I sat in, watched the film, understood a lot more of the Spanish than a few weeks earlier and really enjoyed it.

After the film, it was back out into the cold, with Matt trying to stay awake until 4am and his bus out of town, while I was glad to jump into bed and warm myself up again!