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It
takes a lot of time to be a good surfer, and I'm still a novice,
after 1 year intensive activity. But it's picking up! I have even
surfed on Alnes outside Ålesund after I came home from Oz. It
tok me three months just to stand on the board without falling of,
but this depends on the size of the board and the quality of the
waves. The smaller the board, the harder it is to learn. But a small
and quick board is much more fun to ride when you've first learned
the technique.
Since I've mostly
surfed in Australia, this is the place that I know best. Byron Bay
and Gold Coast is world-renowned spots with waves that really krank
on good days. However, the most impressive surf-scenario on Earth
must be the north shore of Hawaii during winter, with Pipeline and
Waimea pumping 15-20 foot monsters over the shallow corral reefs. I
kept to Waikiki.........In Norway, Jæren and Lofoten have the best
spots. Use a thick wetsuit. |

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