Chevy II Front Suspension Kits,  Info & Comparisons
I had been considering a new front suspension for my Chevy II. I put some thought into it,  compared some prices and looked for alternative and substitutive components. People have been great in sharing ideas and information with me, so I'll share what I've found too. I have found most of these kits to be kind of expensive for what is offered, so I was looking for the best route to go with for my hard earned bucks. 
It's no longer just Heidts and Fat Man as options. Many kits are now offered.
Note: Some of the price and cost figures may be out dated, or different than what you might figure. Also alot of this is personal opinions. You may come to different conclusions.



 
 
Fat Man Fabrication Kit
http://www.fatmanfab.com/fm-17.htm
This seems to be one of the most easily installed kits.  For me total cash outlay would have been $1,800 to $2,100 using combination of  Used strut housing and rebuilt components from the local discount auto parts store. Fat Man has been selling this kit for a number of years, and there are many of these in use. Prices will vary depending on parts needs, what can be found used and how much,  options, upgrades and shipping costs. 
 
Pro's Cons
Used 3rd generation Camaro parts required to complete installation, are cheap ands easy to find used or in junkyards.  Total cost after installation could end up less than most other kits.

Easy to install, No modifications

Shock towers can be modified or flattened more than a stock suspension if engine compartment space desired due to the springs being smaller and further away.

Adjustable spring height.

Kit comes with  steering shafts and U joints

Completely bolt in. No welding

Has a stock looking appearance

Weighs 100 lbs less than stock front end

Shock towers stay in engine compartment

If installing a big block, 8" balancer can't be used, and can't get front of motor as far down in front as in one of the Mustang II type kits, meaning less space between engine and firewall for throttle linkage
(only applies to bib block install).


 
Alston Chassisworks Kit. 
Subframe and suspension
http://www.cachassisworks.com/
Alston designed and manufactured components. Appears to be one of the nicer kits. Also one of the more expensive. I called them up to find out if any stock or production application brake parts, rotors calipers etc. could be used. They said no, that their components would have to be used because their suspension was designed by Chasssisworks from the ground up. All built in house by Chassisworks.  For me the overall cost would be between $3,300 and $3,500.  Prices will vary depending on parts needs, options, upgrades and shipping costs.
 
Pros Cons
Frame rails are narrower alowing the use of extra wide tires.
Drop spindles are supplied with suspension kit

Nice billet rack supplied with kit
 

Quality kit
Completely bolt in. No welding
Aluminum nice looking inner fenders available

Alston makes headers including for big block that are available to use with their kits

Coil over shocks & brake components not in kit and must be bought from Alstons. High quality, but costly upgrades

Overall Cost.

Large CHASSISWORKS name in BIG stamped lettters on the inner fenderwells. kinda  free advertising.

 Person I talked to on phone was adequate and answered my questions ok, but not flexible or free with suggestions

A Fine Example  http://home.attbi.com/~documike/

 
Heidts 
Subframe & suspension
http://www.heidts.com/heip26.htm
http://www.hotrodsusa.com/manufactures/heidts/heifram1.htm
This is a Mustang II based suspension. There are so many options and sources to get parts from. This is probably the most popular kit. This kit can be economical if you have luck finding some Mustang II or pinto parts at a good price. If the complete suspension package & Subframe is bought new from Heidt's, overall cost between $2,500 and $2,700.  Prices will vary depending on parts needs, if you can find cheap used spindles & upper control arm, options, Overall price drops cosiderably. There are a couple of things that need to be improved if Heidts wants to maintain the popularity of this kit amongst the increasing competition. (see cons below). it's still a pretty good kit though other than the inner fenders on the 62 to 65 kits...
Pros Cons
New or used Mustang II  and Pinto components can be used, lowering costs.

Completely bolt in. No welding

Can do away with shock tower freeing up lots of engine compartment room

Inner fender wells available.

Lots of Hot Rod dealers all over the US either sell or are distributers for this kit. You can call around and get price breaks.  Example:
Dean @ HotrodsUSA I spoke to on phone very helpful and had good suggestions. Plus he offered me 10% off and free shipping over $1,000 !

I have seen this kit used with good results

Mustang II & Pinto components may be hard to find in junkyards these days in some areas

no adjustability on ride height after installed unless you opt for the optional adjustable coil over shocks or Air Ride.

I read a post on a bulletin board where the guy had to cut out the motor mounts and move them for installing a big block, but Heidts says it's a bolt in.

The motor gets centered in the car with this kit. A stock Chevy II the motor is set to one side or offset a couple inches. So after install the motor will be at a slight angle unless you move the tranny mount over too. 

For 62-65 applications, the inner fenderwells are flat on the top edge. when bolted up against the fender, it leaves a gap in the middle. The Chevy II's fender's monting surface is arched with a slight curve. There is room for impovement here. NNN's inner fender panel & hood hinge mounting can be used with the Heidts kit for better results


Martz 
Subframe and suspension
http://www.martzchassis.net/page2.htm
If I didn't want to scrounge or substitute used parts and wanted a complete ready bolt on kit, this seemed to be a good value at $2,500. Everything  you could want included. Not Mustang II components, but all Martz designed and manufactured. 
 
Pros Cons
Coil over's included. No charge for upgrade
Drop spindles included
Height adjustable springs
wheels can be adjusted forward and back.
Power steering rack, no additional charge for upgrade
GM 11' brakes included. choice of bolt pattern. Don't have to pay extra for an upgrade to get bigger brakes.

Support tubes are raised in the back, allowing the use of fender well headers if desired.

Martz will figure the springs you need for various engine combos including  big blocks and include in kit no extra charges.
Aluminum inner fender wells avail at a decent price
Person I talked to on phone was flexible and helpful

Completely bolt in. No welding
 

Uses struts on lower control arms, but in this case may not be a disadvantage 

 
Jim Meyers 
Crossmember and suspension
http://www.jimmeyerracing.com/
Jim Meyers Racing now has a Chevy II front end kit. All stock inner fenderwells and sheet metal is used.
Stage 1 kit $1895.00 includes Crossmember, A arms, Coil overs and hardware.The following items not included:ball joints, spindles, calipers and steering rack which are all over the counter parts from your local auto parts store..
Stage II kit $2675.00  Includes everything except steering hookup kit.
Pros Cons
This is a very easy installation. Appears about as easy as the Fat Man 

Uses easy to find GM parts ie: 70-81 Camaro spindles and rotors
Steering rack is 83 to 89 Tbird

No modifications needed to stock sheet metal

Easy Install: Their crossmember  goes on stock Chevy II frame rails. 
Bolts in with some minor additional welding required
Upper A arms go in stock Chevy II holes.
 

Shock towers can be modified or flattened more than a stock suspension if engine compartment space desired due to no springs or shocks behind the shock towers.

Great for keeping a close to stock uder the hood appearance if desired.

 

70-81 Camaro spindles/rotors might be heavy

Steering hookup kit is $195 option

Shock towers stay in engine compartment.

Note: If you need 70 - 81 camaro spindles that are required for this kit, I have some sets I would sell for $40 a pair


 
Checkered Racing 
Subframe and suspension
Checkered Front Suspension Pictures
An install: http://www.geocities.com/tssteph1/
Checkered racing email:   [email protected]
Checkered racing Phone Number 812-279-6972
Have seen his ads on Ebay offering complete susp subframe assy and all suspension components rotor to rotor for $2,000
Pros Cons
Lowest Priced Complete subframe kit available.  Outstanding value

Complete bolt on

Large 11" brakes standard

Coil over shocks included. Will match spring to your application

Nice Flaming River billet rack included.

Flaming River steering hookup ujoint kit at no aditional cost

Upper A arm length adjustable. Alignment not done with shims.

Inner fenders avail for $150

Motor mount brackets shipped seperate & not installed. To me this is an advantage to fit position engine where you want it before welding them up..

$100 flat rate shipping east of Mississippi


Wayne Dues' Chassis shop
http://www.waynedue.com/
His kit uses all late model Corvette components. Just lacking information. This may be only for 3rd generation Novas
Pros Cons
Front rails 3" narrower than stock, allowing for very large wheels and tires

Accepts all 85 to 87 Corvette suspension compponents



 
TCI 
Sub Frame and suspension
http://www.streetrodparts.tv/tci_nova_subframe.htm
This is a Mustang II based suspension.  Very competetively priced at $2,295 for a complete kit. Everything included.
Pros Cons
low Price

Big 11" brakes ncluded.

Drop Spindles included

Free sway bar

Custom kit option with chrome spindles, polished stainless A arms, coil overs, bilet calipers etc. great for a show car! 

 
 
Heidts & Arizona
Mustang II weld in Cross member
These are suppliers of Mustang II components and cross members I have dealt with. There are many others
Arizona Nova  http://aznova.com/
Heidt's   http://www.hotrodsusa.com/manufactures/heidts/heifram1.htm
National Nostalgic Nova  http://nnnova.com/
Both Arizona Nova and Heidts make weld in sub frames. Arizona has been in business since the begining and may be the pioneer on this type of suspensions. Both Arizona and Hotrods USA were the most knowledgeable and helpful suppliers I have talked to. NNN is also a supplier.  This is the cheapest and best value IF you don't mind the welding and grinding. I figured it took me an extra 8 to 10 hours extra work over a bolt on front end. For myself worth the $525 savings over the bolt on. if you don't weld, a bolt in might be better. 
 
Mustang II  and Pinto components can be used, lowering costs.

Inner fender wells  or shock towers don't necessarily have to be removed
Can do away with shock tower freeing up lots of engine compartment room if desired

Inner fender wells & support hoops available from NNN to make it look like a more expensive professional kit.

Dean @ HotrodsUSA( Heidts distributor) I spoke to on phone very helpful and had good suggestions. Plus he offered me 10% off and free shipping over $1,000 

Must do cutting and welding.

Mustang II & Pinto components may be hard to find in junkyards these days in some areas

no adjust ability on ride height after installed except for changing and or cutting springs, unless you but adj coil over shocks

 

How it's done. Rich's web page  http://www.geocities.com/c2ss/chevyIIwagon.htm
(It inspired the way I decided to do mine). 
Dean at Heidts gave had a great idea for making support tubes. Get some gray electrical grade pvc 112 dia. heat it up where you want the bends. It will bend easy. Form it the way you want. Just leave a little extrra length on the ends. Take the formed peices to a welding or muffler shop or somewhere that bends pipe, and have them bend some .120 wall pipe for you. Take it home, cut to fit and weld it in.


 
Mustang II front suspension tidbits of information
Use NNN's inner fender panels. I've been told the  top lip is curved to match the curve on the Chevy II fender lip. the Heidts inner fendr top lip is flat, and will leave an air gap between the lips on 62 to 65 applications. 66 & 67 inner fenders are much better.

Stock used spindles about as good as new ones
No great reason to go with more expensive tubular upper control arms over stocks other than appearance. Heidts admitted this. The lowers support the vehicle and aftermarket lowers are recommended.
Using used spindles and upper control arms would be ok.
75 to 78 Granada 11" rotors go right on Mustang II spindles. Bearings interchange (does move wheel out slightly)
82 to 92 10.5" Camaro rotors go right on Mustang II spindles. Bearings interchange. Small nut must be used
TCI and Magnum Axle make caliper brackets to mount late model GM calipers to Mustang II spindles
TCI  makes a kit to use even larger mid 70's Chevelle and Camaro calipers( This is what I'll use for my big block with 11" Granada rotors)]
If using stock column, many companies offer a steering kit with rack adapter, shaft and two u joints. The Heidts kit's lower U joint is a combo. One end with the rack splines and small dia, with the other end the standard 3/4. This eliminates the need for an adapter between the rack and first joint. It's cheaper too. $139 for the complete setup. Just no steering column bearing. Steering column bearing is a 1 7/8" X 3/4" and can be bought at your local bearing shop. 
Spring rate info
Stock springs can be used. Mustang II and Pinto 4cyl springs used for small block & big block w/aluminum heads, V6 springs for big blocks


 
 
Mustang II Component Price Comparisons
These are prices I gathered off the net. I'm sure there is lots that could be added and some that could be corrected. Shipping costs are to be considered. Some suppliers will even offer discounts which used to be unlikely. I will be glad to add or change anything. These prices were observed Oct 01. I probably won't update the pricing.
 
Tubular upper control arm $205  Shell Valley 
Stamped upper control arm $175  Shell Valley
Tubular upper control arm $239  Arizona 
Tubular upper control arm $249  Heidts 
Tubular upper control arm $250 http://www.hotrodssuperstore.com/super-store/tubuparformu.html

Tubular lower cntrl arms $329  Arizona 
Tubular lower cntrl arms $339  Heidts… …… 
Tubular lower cntrl arms $346  Progressive 
Tubular upper and lowers  $380 for all! Barrett Chassis 
 

Tubular lower cntrl arms $280  http://www.hotrodssuperstore.com/super-store/tublowarform.html

Spindle  new $238  Shell Valley http://www.shellvalley.com/cobra/products.asp?id=Suspension
Spindle  reconditioned $159  Arizona  http://www.electricg.com/aznova.html

flaming river steering rack $229  hot rod super-FR http://www.hotrodssuperstore.com/super-store/flamrivperpr.html
 
 

Rack w/ 2 tie rods $216  Shell Valley
 new Rack   $189 Arizona 
rack mount bushings $20  hot rod super http://www.hotrodssuperstore.com/super-store/musiiracpinm.html 
steering shaft kit $175  http://www.hotrodssuperstore.com/super-store/susparbrakfr.html

Bolt in fender kit $190  NNN   http://nnnova.com/ASSOCI.html

 tie rod  ends $14  Arizona Nova http://www.electricg.com/aznova.html
 

Stock Shocks $29  Arizona Nova http://www.electricg.com/aznova.html

Mustang II rotors $79 pr  Arizona
Large GM caliper adaptor $130  ECI    l 
GM caliper adaptor $109   Pro Bilt 
Granada adadtor kit-uses late GM calipers $86   Shell Valley

Large GM caliper adaptor $130  Hot rod super  Store

Street Rod Manufacturing--Good source for disc brakes

Granada11" roors $98  ShellValley
Hub to hub kit $1,599  Arizona 
Hub to hub kit w/11" brakes $1,495 Heidts 
Hub o hub kit w/11" brakes $1,470  NNN 

Steering shaft kit $245  NNN http://nnnova.com/ASSOCI.html
Steering column kit w/bearing $220 Arizona  pn 454 
steering column kit w/o bearing $180 Arizona    pn 460 
 

 
Other Suspension Shopping related Links:
Mustang II Marketplace
Parts for stock suspensions Global West
Classic Performance Products
Little Joes Rod Shop
McGyver Disc Brake kits
Barrett Chassis Components
Other Chevy II links:

My Chevy II Page 
My Automotive Links Page
Tire Fitment Page
Steve's Chevy II  Q & A site
My Previous disc brake conversion experience
 

 
Big Block Tips I will add bits of info as I go along with my project
*With the Arizona or Heidts, the front of the engine can be made to sit lower so stock throttle linkage will have enough room to swing behind the engine.
* It is nice to have the motor mount supports left off, so you can position the engine where you want it and then weld in yourself.
* Hooker fenderwell headers dump straight down and don't curve back like the small block FW headers. The collectors must be cut down to reduce the amount of exhaust pipe below the vehicle. I bought 3 1/2 dia 45 degree mandrell bent sections from AutoJet Exhaust I cut them down, welded them in  and welded the header flange back on. I will link some pics on shortly.
*If you can get by with stock or roller tip rockers (not full rollers), stock valve covers can be used, meaniing No firewall mods neccesary. If tall valve covers used, firewall mods will need to be done around wiper motor.
Installing a Big Block
 
Change your backspacing:
I put a Ford 9" rear end  in my 62 Chevy II. I found that is was wider than my stock rear. I took some stock 14' X 7"  steel wheels, ground out all the welds so the wheels center could be moved outward. I moved the center out to get my desired backspacing. Of course it wasn't true and wobbled. I mounted wheel on a brake lathe, tapped outer rim with a hammer on high spots while wheel was spinning until it had no wobble. Welded center back onto outer rim. This will work on front ends where after doing a disc brake conversion pushes the front wheels out and they rub.

MORE REAR END INFO

 
What I ended up with:
I bought Heidt's tubular upper & lower control arms and a steering rack from someone on Ebay that had abandoned their project. Got a Heidts weld in crossmember on order from HotrodsUSA  $369. They are also fixing me up with a pair of spring $69, steering shaft kit $139 and inner fender panels $199. Got lucky and found a set of Mustang II spindles in the junkyard, and a new set of Granada rotors in my garage.  i bought  the TCI brackets from Hot Rod Super Store   I was a little disapointed with what i got and what i paid for it. Here's what the kit constists of . Just not much there for $130 plus shipping. They said brake pad spacers were transferable to new pads, but instead are just a couple strips of metal welded onto some stock pads. They did work well. The only other option is to make your own, but that all takes time. Maybe I'll post a template and more detailed photo.
 
My Front End Install On My 62

 
 
 
 
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