It is neither traditional nor romantic exoticism that makes this country fascination - it is the astounding wealth.  The population, estimated to be around 300,000, is the second wealthiest per capita on earth.  Fortune magazine has estimated (pre-Asian crisis) that the Sultan's personal fortune is worth a shade over US$37 billion - making him one of the richest people in the world.

The enormous wealth is displayed in various ways, excessive public buildings, haunting Mosques and the international airport more suitable for a country 10 times the size.  The Sultan's personal spending is also legendary with an obsession with Italian sports cars (my friend once stumbled across 10 Lamborghini's each individually coloured) and polo.  The Sultan and his extended family enjoyed a lifestyle unparalleled in the world if a fifth of the rumours that circulated amongst the expatriate community were correct.

Where does the nation's wealth come from?  OIL!  Huge oil and gas reserves are located off-shore from Seria and Muara although officially the government publicly states that half Brunei's income is from international investments.  Shell Brunei (51% of which is owned by the Sultan) is based in Seria and extracts and processes Brunei's oil, it is also the countries largest employer.  Brunei's large untouched primary jungle and silicon reserves near Seria have been identified as natural resources.

In the 15th and 16th centuries Brunei was a considerable power in the area, and its rule extended throughout Borneo and into the Philippines.  The Spanish and the Portuguese were the first European visitors, arriving in the 16th century.  The Spanish actually made a bid to take over, but were soon ousted.  The arrival of the British in the guise of James Brook, the first White Rajah of Sarawak, in the early 19th century, spelt the end of Brunei's power.

A series of 'treaties' was forced onto the Sultan as James Brooke consolidated his hold over Kuching with the aim of developing commercial relationships and suppressing piracy, a favourite Bruneian and Dayak occupation (and piracy was a favourite excuse for justifying European land grabs).  The country was gradually whittled away until, with a final dash of absurdity, Limbang was ceded to Sarawak in 1890, thus dividing the country in half.  In 1929, just as Brunei was about to be swallowed up entirely, oil was discovered.  The present Sultan's father, who abdicated in 1967, kept Brunei out of the Malaysian federation, preferring that the country remain a British protectorate, which it had been since 1888.

In 1962, in the lead-up to amalgamation with Malaysia, the British pressured Sultan Omar Saifuddin to hold elections. The opposition Ra'ayat Party, led by A M Azahari, which wanted to keep Brunei independent and make the Sultan a constitutional monarch within a democracy, won an overwhelniing victory. As the Sultan's plans to take Brunei into union with Malaysia became clear, Azahari fled to the Philippines, from where he directed an armed rebellion with the support of Indonesia. The rebellion was quickly crushed with British military backing, and the Sultan later opted for independence, but the country has been under emergency laws ever since, though you'll see little evidence of this.
In early 1984 the popular Sultan and Yang Di-Pertuan (king), His Majesty Paduka Seri

Beginda Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah' Mu'izzaddin Waddaulah, the 29th of his line, led his tightly ruled country somewhat reluc-! tantly into complete independence from Britain. The 37-year-old leader rather, enjoyed the English umbrella and colonial; status, and independence was almost unwanted.
Since independence, Brunei has shown an increasing trend towards Islamic fundamentalism and is keen to counter growing modernisation and accompanying Western values. Melayu Islam Beraja (MIB) is the national ideology, stressing Malay culture, Islam and monarchy, and is promulgated through the ministries of education, religious affairs and information. In 1991 the sale of alcohol was banned, stricter dress codes have been introduced, and in 1992 MIB became a compulsory subject in schools.

Pictured to the left is an aerial photography of BSB taken prior to 1994 with the impressive Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque and its circular moat.  Surrounding the Mosque and across the Brunei river are the extensive water villages, home to over 30,000 people.  Unfortunately the water village directly to the right (South) of the Mosque has been demolished for the now completed huge Singapore style shopping centre called Yayasan.

Plying the Brunei River (Sungai Brunei) are hundreds of water taxis supporting the thousands of people that call Kampung Air their home. 

Pictured to the left, myself and my mother Maggie visiting the Sultan's palace (Istana Nurul Iman) during the Sultan's Hari Raya "open house".  The few days of Hari Raya is the only time during the year that the public are permitted to visit the colosal palace, the largest building the world with more rooms than the Vatican and guarded by the Ghurkha army (under British control).  During this occasion all guests are permitted to meet either the male or female members of the royal family (including the Sultan himself), partake in a banquet meal and receive a souvenir box of food.

Opposite the Sultan's palace, at his brothers residence guests receive gift of B$5 (~US$2.5).  Needless to say that the Sultan' brothers residence was very popular with the large Bruneian families.

The chainmen I worked with were mostly Iban (formerly the infamous head hunters of Borneo) from Sarawak.  Sarawak Iban still enjoy the traditional village life, a notable characteristic of their villages is the presence of longhouses (or rumah panjang).  A longhouse is a long wooden structure divided into units for each family but fronting onto a common porch area used for communal activities (like drinking Tuak or rice wine).

With the Asian crisis and the demise of Prince Jefri's Armedo company the future of Jerudong park is uncertain.

The wedding couple normal arrive separately to the ceremony location (when most guests have already departed) and are seated together on decorated thrones.  The wedding costumes are extremely elaborate (and is changed five time during the day), the groom is adorned with a Kris (or ceremonial dagger) said to possess magic powers.

Food was great, with the same variety that is available in Malaysia but slightly more expensive.

Without income tax, huge shopping centres, nightclubs or pubs it was easy to save money in Brunei.