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Denim Demystified

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Denim Demystified What does stonewash mean? What's the difference between classic and straightleg? Should I wear a boot cut or a flare? What's a rise? If these are questions you ponder about denim, then this is the primer for you!

Washes. These are the type of color or "look" of the denim fabric. There are a whole range of washes, with or without color, distressed or not, dark and light. Here are a few common ones:

stonewash - this is a process whereby the jeans are actually washed with smooth pebbles so that the color fades and they take on a lighter bluish color. the thighs, bottom tend to fade more in some cases.
sandblast or sandwash - these jeans are treated with sand to create fine fading, especially the thighs and bottom.
dark or indigo - this is original, deeply dyed denim. it can be prone to fading over time, but at first it has a deep navy blue color.
rinsed - rinsed jeans are only rinsed so that some color is removed (minuscule white spots show through). some rinses include adding other colors on top of blue.
antique - this can refer to stonewash, but also to a light wash created by enzymes. sometimes there is a yellow tint.
whisker - in these jeans, the top of the legs or other parts of the jeans have lighter streaks like whiskers.
tinted - jeans may also be dyed darkly, or dyed and then washed as above, leading to a light color.

Cut. This is the shape of the denim, whether the leg and the thighs or the bottom. It really determines how the jeans fit. Here they are, explained:

classic - the classic cut is usually straight or slightly loose in the hips and thighs, tapering to the ankle. Classic cuts with straight legs work for most adults.
relaxed - relaxed cuts are roomy in the hips and thighs, and also taper loosely to the ankle. Also not currently in fashion.
straight leg - these are fitted at the hips and go straight down from the thighs on, resulting in a thickening look. Good on most people.
wide leg - these jeans are fitted at the hips and really loose and wide through the hips all the way down to the ankle. Good for apple-shaped men. Can make you look shorter.
boot cut - these jeans are fitted from the hips through the thighs, then flare gently from below the knee. Good for wearing boots, balances wide hips nicely. Can make you look taller.
flare - a modern version of bell bottoms, these are like boot cuts with a wider flare out from the knee. Also good for wide hips and thighs.
slim - a fitted cut all the way from top to bottom, closer to the leg all the way, usually ending in a straight leg bottom. Looks good on long, lean figures.

Rise. The rise is the distance from between the legs to the top of the jean. Low means a short distance.

low - a low rise usually hits an inch or more below the belly button. the measurements need to be adjusted accordingly, because most people are wider lower down on their hips. If you like more room in the zipper area, definitely test and see. Also be sure to do the sit-down test to make sure underwear and your bottom don't show. Also available in ultra-low.
average - the usual rise hits at the belly button. Works on most everyone.
high - a high rise hits above the belly button. Not currently in fashion, but might come back.

Other options. Front pockets, fabric weight, pleats, elastic, stretch, tabs, belt loops, back pockets, and embellishments are other things to examine in jeans.

pockets - decide how many pockets you want. coin pockets lend a certain look to jeans you might like. do you want back pockets or not? some jeans also have other loops and pockets for cell phones, cargo pockets at the knee or hips. Lower pockets balance out wide hips, higher ones enhance them.
fabric weight - test the thickness of the fabric. Heavy is cowboy-like, sturdy, and stiff (no stings). Light is thin enough for summer, but might flop around. Most jeans are medium-weight.
stretch - a heavy weight jean can be balanced with a good amount of stretch. This will allow you to wear skintight jeans with comfort and to bend and stretch easily. These days, it's best to get jeans with stretch.
loops - most jeans have five belt loops, some have fewer, some six. keep an eye out.
pleats - these are usually in the waist. Avoid them because they make tummies look larger.
elastic - also usually in the waist but could also be at the hem. Don't wear them unless you can cover up the elastic. However, new kinds that add stretch in the waist without elastic are an option.
tabs - these adjustable button-ups allow you to control the width of the waist, the knee, or leg, by buttoning or unbuttoning. Gives you better control, but adds another thing to simple jeans.
embellishments - embroidery, jewels and patches are some embellishments that could be on jeans. Most people are buying plain ones these days, though.

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