"Sisters are doing it for themselves..."
Aretha Franklin & Annie Lennox.
This page is mainly about things I've learned along the way. They may be of help to other transgendered male to females. Of course, none of this is comprehensive, but it might help you along the way. The main thing to remember is that you will learn everyday and get better at becoming the person you want to be. Just try to enjoy the steps along the way
First, I want to be clear. I'm certainly not an expert with make-up, fashion, passing or anything for that matter. But I have picked-up a few tricks of the trade that I'd like to pass along. They may make some transgendered person's journey a bit easier, and that's my goal...
May 2005
1. Make-up (here)
2. Dating: The secrets revealed
3. Getting & coming out
4. Hormones or not?
OVER?
Email me for an appt.
1. Choose a look and then go for it over and over again until you get it right once in awhile. Make-up is difficult and achieving consistency takes time and practice.
Maria's All-Star Line-up as of Dec 03.
1. Foundation: Mac NW25. Full Coverage (mail order only) or Dermablend Chroma 3 on the chin area, the rest MAC Studio Finish Cream in NW25. Sometimes Bobbi Brown smooth skin "warm beige." Now that I'm full-time I use a lot of cheaper foundations. Coveergil Auquasmooth (Soft honey); L'Oreal Cashmere Perfect (Honeybeige); Maybelline dream matte med 02. Finally, the mass market brands have discovered different bases other than pink! The full coverage doubles as concealer.
2. Powder. Cover Girl Translucent powder in medium. Also, I'm using MAC Studio-Fix NW25 for touch-ups.
3. Eyes: Top lids, L'oreal Lineur Intense eyeliner. MAC eye pencil in Ebony. Maybelline "Unstoppable" mascara: the best waterproof mascara on the market! Sephora Gold glitter creme eye shadow under the brow. Powders by Bobbi Brown (the pigmentation is superior!), Philosophy, Clinique, & Laura Mercier. Bobbi Brown eye liner pencil in black lower lids (night only); Rimmel Eyebrow pencil in dark brown. (I wear a lot of darks because of my skin color). B/c of my contact lens problems, I try to use waterproof eye stuff as much as possible.
4. Cheeks: various contouring powders and make-ups in shades darker than my sking color (nightclubbing only) Blush is actually MAC eye shadow "Empire" Bobbi Brown "Plum" blush," and I love Revlon's creme blush n 'iced mocha.' I apply the creme blush before powdering.
5. Lipsticks. Standards: Laura Mercier "Healthy Lips" lipstick, or Lancome "Smooch" with MAC Spice lip liner (Wet-n-Wild 666 is a good pencil) . I have a Trish McEvoy lip pallette I just love: 4 colors, from day to night, kind of berrish. I have about six Bobbi Brown lipsticks in nude to berryish. Sometimes tinted Clinique lipgloss (for day only).. Nightclubbing can be any REDish color from Lancome, MAC, Estee Lauder, Laura Mercier, Revlon, Chanel or Philosphy. Don't go cheaper than Revlon or L'oreal in lipsticks. The cheap stuff gets on your teeth, comes off every where and generally sucks.
6. Perfumes. I'm weird amongst my friends, either gg or Tranz. I like the old-fashioned heavier sents. Clinique Aeromatics Elixer. (or occasionally Chanel #5).are all I will wear.
7. Brushes: Sonia Kashuk (Target). What a bargain. Girlfriend, ya need good brushes! These are great and cheap.
8. Facial routine. I use various cleansers; Exfoliation is important. Right now I use a Khiels moisturizer and then a tinted moisturizer by day; tons of various kinds of moisturizers by night--I rarely if ever get clogged pores, so I pour in on!!!!! Good heavy shave cream is a must! Mach 3's rule.
Foundation: Heavy Beard Coverage. "Less is not best!" Too often I've heard Twomen mindlessly recite the old adage that 'less is best.' Doubtless they've read this in a fashion magazine aimed at 18 year-olds with oily faces. (nothing against you if you are an 18 year-old with an oily face: that's just another series of struggles). If you follow this tactic you will likely have a generous amount of beard shadow poking through your wispy thin foundation (if you even bother with foundation). If you've got a significant amount of facial hair, if you have dark hair and light to medium skin, or coarse facial hair, you need to PLASTER your beard area with foundation. That's right, Plaster it on! I recommend Dermablend, available at most department stores, and a few drug stores. The 'pot' is the best value. The colors are crude, but you will be using this only for beard coverage anyway. Oh, and don't buy the 'setting powder' which is basically over-priced baby powder guaranteed to give you a ghastly sheen (if you are into a gothic look, go for it!).
You apply the Dermblend to your face just like you spackeled the rust holes in the body of your aging first car. It even comes with a small putty knife, and you warm it in your hand before application. Next, thickly smear the Dermablend over your beard area and rub it it before smoothing with a make-up sponge. (You should have shaved first with a MACH III razor with the grain and then against. If you have one, then apply an electric razor Finally, I use a moisturizer). Let the putty (Dermablend) harden on your face a bit. Over the Dermablend you can now apply another foundation or powder. This should match your skin tone much better than the Dermablend and cover the other areas of your face.
Medium Coverage. If you have had some laser, or electrolysis or otherwise don't have a fierce amount of facial hair, MAC full coverage foundation may be your ticket. MAC makes tons of shades, and is a great company for women of all skin colors. In Pittsburgh, .full coverage is an internet or 1-800 MAC product. However, you can get a consulation from Jarrett (Ross Park Mall, Pittsburgh) in order to match your shade. He understands- the special needs of our community and is discrete it that's what ya need. Oh--this formula was invented for MADONNA!!!!
Light Coverage. You can use just about anything. I would, however, avoid cheap foundations.. They tend to clog poress. Of the grocery store types, I prefer either L'oreal or Revlon. Ultima II is a fine mid-price line. Avoid $2 foundation like the plague!!!
Laser I've had a great experience with the laser process. To date, I use it mainly as a maintence procedure. About two- three times per year I see the folks at HAPPEL LASER and get zapped. It hurts like HELL, but lasts, and is wonderful for people with thick facial hair that want rapid improvement. Nikki at Happel is really great, interested in our community and understanding. I am very, very pleased with the results of my laser treatments.
Electrolysis. This is the only proven way to get rid of hair forever. I can vouch for Anita Kysor, who is an RN, very good at her craft and extra Tranz-friendly. If you have a light beard, this is the way to go. This process is slow going and painful, but in the long run, it's gone forever.
Vaniqua Cream. I used this hair retardant for several months and was extremely happy with the results. It's about $40 per tube and you have to get a script. Tell your doctor it's for your ingrown hairs if you are closeted. It really works. It just slows the growth, but doesn't remove any hair. I'm not using it any more b/c of cost.
You can buy cosmetics from two major sources, the grocery store/mass market variety and department stores. Each have advantages, and I tend to use a little of both. Foundations are better purchased at a department store so that you can get an exact match. I like to buy eye brow pencils, setting powder, and brushes from mass market sources. Department store eye shadows have more pigmentation and you have to use less product, ditto blushes.
If you are on a budget you can buy for instance from Wahlmart. Maybelline Panstick foundation $6; Covergirl setting powder$5, Revlon creme eye shadows, Wet-n-Wild 666 lip pencil $2, $5; Revlon creme blush $6; Revlon lipstick, $5 & Rimmel eye pencils $2; and you are good to go!
Another great way to save money is to buy stuff on clearance at drugstores. If you try it once and don't like the color, save it because you may change your mind several months down the line.
AVOID: Blue eye shadows when just starting out. Tacky, tacky, TACKY! Blue eye shadow screams "Man in a dress!" You can't look sexy if you resemble Bozo!!!
AVOID: hard red lipsticks during the day! It will draw unwanted attention and make you look ten years older!
AVOID: Big Hair, Big Make-up and 1980s style flashy clothes: you will look like a a reject from Dynasty or Dallas!