Jarunee Taemsamran


Enthusiasts of history and archaeology may easily fall in love with Israel because of its rich store of ancient ruins that note its importance as the birthplace of three major world religions.

But Israel is also a Promised Land for the adventurer in search of unusual outdoor pursuits. The range of activities includes everything from camel rides and jeep tours, to mountain-climbing or taking in the eerie landscape around the Dead Sea.

For a taste of Israel's other side, we drove south from Tel Aviv to Mitzpe Ramon has focused on making it a regional accommodation centre and base for and base for new kinds of tourism.

Along the way the scenery shifted from mountainous areas to agricultural sites and finally the plain expanse of desert. Ninety minutes after leaving Tel Aviv we had arrived at the Desert Shade International Centre.

Desert shade is home to some 20 camels. We looked out at the corral that housed these beasts as we stepped inside to be welcomed by local bedouin herders. Here we were also sampled an authentic Bedouin meal, starting with a main course of sonia, rice with something that tasted like chicken, served on oa big tray. The dish reminded us of the familiar taste of khao na kai or khao kha moo. This wsa followed by fatir, a traditional flat bread, and baklava, a honey-laden sweet pastry eaten with bitter tea.

We would need the energy the meal provided for the camel ride that was to follow. As I stood looking out over the vast, arid expanse of the desert, I began to sense its unusual charm. The sun shone so strongly that I has to close my eyes and adjust to the extra-bright light.

Camels are often called "ships of the desert" , and on wonder: with their ability to endure three or four days without water, they are the most reliable means of transport in a parched, unforgiving land.

A young Desert Shade guide led us to a spot where four camels had gathered. They were lying about lazily and seemed quite unwilling to welcome us As the quide told us to get on their backs, signs of worry crossed many faces.

"I' m scared," I heard somebody cry.

"Don't worry," said the guide while urging us to climb aboard. "Step on its foreleg and climb up. No fear. Go on."

Each camel's saddle is designed to support two people. We divided the group, with the two "bravehearts" in our number assigned to separate camels. In the few seconds it took the camels to rise to their feet, everyone was silent as if trying to suppress fear.

The four camels-Vasa, Orna, Sho-shana and Grisha-were tied together so that they would follow each others' steps. Once the caravan of four camels and six journalists was in position, the guide started to lead the way.

Initially, the height of the camel's back caused some excitement. It was not like riding a horse because camels are not that fast. They walked slowly and clumsily and seemed determined to follow their own path despite the guide's attempts to keep them in line. They stopped when they wanted to eat (and they appeared to be selective, choosing only dried plants and avoiding green ones).

As the camels loped along, we adjusted ourselves to their up-and-down steps, like musicians following rhythm. The dry, cold wind of January was sharp and occasionally painful on the skin. Still, the hour aboard a camel was a very memorable one in my life.

For a taste of more modern desert transport, the jeep is the vehicle of choice. Our team sampled four wheel exploration at Metzoke dragot International Centre for desert tourism.

Located in the heart of the Judean desert, an hour's drive from Jerusalem, it provides a wide variety of activities including camel riding, mountain climbing or staying in Bedouin tents. It is also Israel's largest rappelling and mountaineering centre.

With a good-looking young guide behind the wheel, our jeep set off deeper into the desert, while we watched the flora and fauna changing along the way. The hardy plants that have adapted to drought conditions, lush greenery alongside streams, camels roaming the open spaces and gazelles on the slopes of the hills made the ride a unique experience.

We stopped to take photographs atop a scenic mountain, from which we could see the horizontal blue sky kiss the blue Dead Sea below.

Some hotels around the Metzoke Dragot area arrange camel rides for periods ranging from a half-hour up to two nights. Accommodation is no worry since one can stay in tents in the desert or overnight at kibbutz. The latter-communal farms that symbolise Israelis' determination to cultivate the difficult land-are well-recommended for seekers of local hospitality.

The desert experience, while fantastic, can make a traveler feel weary. For those who dream of rejuvenation and relaxation, mud treatments and health spas at the Dead Sea should not be missed.

The first view of the Dead Sea-blue and salt-saturated against a white salt plan with rocky, mountainous ranges beyond-is unforgettable. At 121 meters below sea level, it is the lowest place on earth. And the salt water is so buoyant that a person without any swimming skill can float effortlessly.

The Dead Sea attracts people from around the workd in search of its healing powers, making it one of the major tourism centers in Israel and the entire Middle East. There are only 12 hotels with 2,000 rooms, and plans are underway to add 1,900 more rooms over the next decade.

At the Nirvana Spa hotel, we experienced a 15-minute mud treatment and a session floating in the salty water of the hotel's pool.

And if you are thinking of buying cosmetics as gifts, the Ahava factory offers a complete ranges of cosmetics made from the Dead Sea's famed minerals and black mud.

Getting There
El Al Israel Airlines operates direct flights from Bangkok to Tel Aviv three times a week. Flights depart on Sunday, Tuesday and Wednesday. For bookings, call 249-8818-9 or 671-6145-7. For information, call Israeli Embassy at 260-4854-9.

Desert Tours
-Desert Shade International in the Negev desert offers a one-hour camel ride along the ridge of the Ramon Crater. Visitors can enjoy a traditional Bedouin feast in a tent followed by folk tales and explanations of the Bedouin way of life.
-Metzoke Dragot International Center for Desert Tourism in the Judean desert provides various activities ranging from camel rides and jeep tours to hiking and mountain climbing.

Tourists seeking local hospitality are also recommended to try staying on a kibbutz or in Bedouin tents. Check with travel agents in advance. At Desert Shade a tent is equivalent of 325 baht a night. A camel ride costs 40 Israeli shekels (300 baht) per hour.

Other Attractions
-Ahava factory: This cosmetics and health products company uses the Dead Sea's famous health-giving minerals and black muds as its raw ingredients. An audio-visual show and shop are available.

-Massada: This symbol of the Jewish people's struggle for independence towers meters above the Dead Sea and is the most spectacular archaeological site in Israel. Built by King Herod, this fortress was taken by Jewish zealots during the rebellion against Rome. Following a long siege, the defenders chose to kill themselves rather than be captured and become slaves.

-Spa Treatment: Nirvana Spa Hotel offers mud treatment and massage using mineral-rich black mud from the Dead Sea.