Most important of my �things to do�, was to get some more money so that I could pay my bill at Gwesty Tywi before checking out. I�d been told that there was no problem getting cash in Gaiman, so I was a little worried when the machine at the Banco del Chubut spat my card back out at me and told me it couldn�t read it. Hmm. Problem.

As that was the only cashpoint in the village, that didn�t leave me with uch choice except to head to Trelew, once again, and find somewhere for me to get hold of some cash.

The first link machine I found was a Western Exchange, but when I tried to take some money out, it told me that it didn�t actually have any left over. Waste of five minutes, that was. Across the road, there was a queue of around 10 people for the two machines outside one bank, so I thought about going and checking my e-mail until I saw a far shorter queue on one of the side streets.

Of course, as I�m sure you all know, queuing for bank machines is like the supermarket. Whichever queue is shortest will always have someone being really awkward. Of the two in front of me, one guy must have been inside the booth (for privacy they have little booths here) for more than ten minutes, leading to an irate woman behind me knocking on the door and telling him, in no uncertain terms, to hurry up.

Eventually, I got in, and it gave me some cash. Which was nice, even if walking round with a few hundred pesos was a bit nerve wracking.

It was now lunchtime so, after my customary trip to surf the net, I made my way round to Sugar, scene of my first �ncident�with ham in the pizza. This time, I sat away in the corner of the window in the no smoking section and explained to the waitress that i really didn�t want ANY meat on the pizza. She laughed, smiled and said she remembered me. When the food arrived, there was no ham. I ate happily.

After food, I wandered round again, popping into San David to speak to Mario who works there, and to two Welsh tourists from Bangor who were travelling through Argentina.

One of the plans that I hit upon was the idea of improving my Spanish through reading books, so I�d looked up the Latin American course at UCL (the Cardiff course didn�t include the course books) and having found a course based on the Argentinian writers, Borges and Cortazar, I jotted down the titles and went a-searching for the books.

Deciding to buy them one at a time, I picked up the Borges book, �l Aleph, on the grounds that it prompted them to name the hostel where I�d stayed in Bs As.

Going back to Gaiman, I cured my hunger pangs with yet another pizza at Gustos, before retiring to bed and reading the first half of the Coupland novel, and promising that I�d finish the rest when I arrived in Trelew tomorrow.