Dirod #8
The Dirod #8 which I built from Kevin Dunn's kit is pictured below. Click on the image for a larger view. See:
http://cavemanchemistry.com/dirod.html
for Dunn's construction manual.
Dirod #8 (pictured at left) is easy to build, following Dunn's excellent instructions (see the above web site - the instructions also come on a CDROM included with the kit.) The only construction problem I had was that I did not heed Dunn's warning to let the "Goop" glue completely dry between steps, and I pulled one of the collectors loose.  Overnight setting is best for the critical glue joints.
Dirod # 8. Click on image for larger view.
I found a fast way to mark and cut the 36 aluminum tape strips used for the "rods". I had a scrap piece of 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate, with a straight base about 4 inches long. Setting the base cross-wise on the aluminum tape, I marked the 1/4 inch width, Then I flipped the plate on its side, and used the long edge as a guide for cutting the tape at the marks with a hobby knife.

The large drive pulley initially gave me trouble.  After turning it for some time, the pulley began to freeze, probably due to the pulley digging into the threads of the mounting bolt. I solved this problem by coating the exposed threads of the bolt with five minute epoxy. After the epoxy had set, I filed away the excess until the bolt would again slide into the hole of the pulley. I have by now rotated the Dirod thousands of times without further problems.

I also found that the plastic tube supplied for the handle on the pulley was too small in diameter to use comfortably for long periods of time. I replaced the plastic tube with a piece of 3/4 inch dowel, through which I had drilled a hole of the proper size.

The two metal spheres of the spark gap, and the associated pipe are not included in the kit. I followed Dunn's suggestion and bought a non-locking door set, then cut off the spherical door knbs.  I wrapped bare copper wire around the outside of two pipe end caps.  At this point they were only slightly smaller than the holes in the knobs, and I was able to solder the caps to the knobs.

The metal rod with the wooden handle is a good grounding rod. I use it to short between the collectors when I am changing the spacing between the  two spheres.
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Dirod #8 Disk Motor
Electrostatic Motors Motor Modifications
Adding A Motor To Dirod
Interpretations Interpretations Part 3
Interpretations Part 2
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