Friday, June 22
EDESSA - Another early morning as we left Agios Germanos to Edessa, with a brief stop-over in Florina. When we arrived, our first stop, as always, was at a hotel. Another pretty good deal, and conveniently situated. We rested a bit, did some errands, then headed for the waterfalls, the city's main attraction. On the way, we wandered down the streets of the old town, which were very picturesque. We took lots of photos of water, of course, and there were tons of man-made falls and fountains to fill our needs. The guidebook warned us about the tackiness of the shop-lined area and cement surrounding the main waterfall, but it wasn't bad at all. There was a beautifully lush park nearby, and the waterfall area was pretty tastefully done. We walked inside the waterfall, underneath it, and around to another less visited waterfall.
Afterwards we walked back through the old town, but not before pausing at the strip of tourist shops to buy what is possibly the tackiest souvenir ever - a waterfall scene painted on a slab of oval wood in horrific colors, with two girls in native dress standing underneath. We then ate and sipped frappes at a cafe perched atop a rock cliff with an absolutely spectacular view of the agricultural plain below. Amazingly, despite the ideal location, we were practically the only customers, and I suspect the only foreign tourists once again. No complaints, however.
Saturday, June 23
EDESSA - Our day began with another hike, to the archaeological site of ancient Edessa. From the cafe yesterday, it looked like it would be a major hike that would take all morning. But we got there in less than half an hour, and it was a very pleasant walk. It started wuth a cobblestone path that turned into milled concrete and then a dirt path through lush trees, mini waterfalls and farmland. Before we knew it, we were there. Coral plopped down under a tree and had some bread while I explored the site and took photos. We then switched. Later, we hiked half-way up the cliff, pausing to check out a curious set of glass elevators that scaled the cliff. They actually led to a mini-museum in an old mill and fancy cafe complex. The cafe was on several tiers and looked pretty fancy, with wicker chairs, classical music and nice landscaping, complete with three bars and several fake waterfalls. It was the perfect place for a wedding reception, with another fantastic view. We sat down and had frappes.
Afterwards we walked around and lazily explored more of the waterfall area. We had tons of time to kill before taking the 2 p.m. bus to Agras, where a cherry festival was being held. We didn't know what to do with ourselves. We plopped down on a park bench, where we remained, mesmerized by a water fountain, for half an hour. We made our way to the bus station, where an amazingly nice ticket salesman took us under his wing, leading us to the appropriate bus and introducing us to the driver, who was also great. The entire front of the bus was decorated from top to bottom with icons, stickers and colorful tacky items.
When we got to Agras, it was very early - the festival didn't start until about 9 p.m. We assumed there would be something to do there. We knew there was a lake nearby. But the village was tiny. We wandered around a bit and sat in a church garden, where there were cherry trees bearing delicious fruit. We headed back out to the main road and sat at a cheesy roadside restaurant. We had a simple lunch, then asked about the nearby lakes. It was finally warm again and after being around all the water of Edessa, Coral was dying for a swim. But we were told we couldn't swim in any lakes nearby. Lake Agras, the old woman said, had a whirlpool that caused a village boy to drown last year. We could walk to Lake Agras, but the next lake, Vegoritida, was far.
We decided to check out Agras and started walking. Along the way, we saw a bunch of cherry pickers down a dirt path. We decided to ask them directions and possibly get a photo of them at work. At first they seemed wary of us, and the old yia yia of the group was yelling out directions. But thet were just excited, we later realized, and loaded us with cherries when we left. The cherries were huge, plump and so shiny they looked waxed. I'm not one for cherries, really, but these were amazingly delicious. We returned to take a photo and they were so flattered. They directed us down a dirt road following the river, used primarily as an access to cherry orchards. It was a delightful 2 km walk through the orchards, snacking on fresh cherries and occassionally picking more from the trees. We ran into more cherry pickers, who also offered us fruit.
We didn't find the lake, but we did find a train station, where a nice man gave us further directions, then got a customer to give us a ride to the best part of the lake. The man dropped us off at a roadside restaurant, set along what looked more like a still river than a lake, bound on one side by a neverending sea of grasses. We stopped to have frappes and to decide what to do next. We still had four hours to kill before the festival. We could either visit the other lake and maybe get in an illicit swim, or go to a cherry orchard and take a nap. We decided on the former, and called a taxi to take us to Arnissa.
It was a fantastic huge lake. The driver dropped us off on a random road that seemed to be close to the lake. But the lake was much farther than we first thought. Some men at a cafe directed us down a dirt road and soon we found ourselves surrounded by fields of hay and fruit trees. The road ran parallel to the shore, and it seemed the quickest way there was through the fields. So off we went, trampsing through someone's crops, all to feed Coral's lake fever. When we finally got to the shore, it was reedy and disgusting. It looked like there would be no swimming after all. But we sighted a dock and what appeared to be a beachy area and trudged to it. It was a dock, and there were six fishing poles propped up along the length of it, all being tended by an old man. There were also lots of old-fashioned boats and wildlife. It was quite beautiful. After getting over the initial disappointment of no swimming, we hung out on the dock and started to really enjoy the tranquility. We chatted a bit with the old man and I took tons of photos. He showed us the fish he had caught, and I offered him a handful of cherries.
When we left, we headed straight for the train station, not even pausing to explore the town. When we arrived in Agras, our friend from earlier waved at us and came over to make sure we had made it to the lake. Then we walked through the orchards again, an even more pleasant walk without the harsh sunlight. We could hear the music of the festival sounding in the distance. We got there just as the festival was beginning. It was more of a county fair than a festival. It mostly involved a stage where local children danced in traditional costumes, surrounded by a few stalls selling food and cherries. Coral interviewed two young women at a cherry information stand and we bought some cherries to bring Iason as a house-warming present when we arrived in Papingo. We munched on some cotton candy and sat through a few dances before flagging down a taxi and heading back.
Sunday, June 24
PAPINGO - A whole day of travel and it completely wore me out. We started at 10 a.m., taking a two-hour bus ride to Kozani, where we waited another two hours to take another bus to Konitsa. Luckily, the Konitsa ride involved lots of hairpin turns around steep mountain slopes, so there was plenty to pique my interest. In fact, the whole bus seemed to be concentrating on the ride, as if we were extensions of the driver, invested in looking out for oncoming traffic and falling rocks. Three hours later, we were in Konitsa, a pretty small town sprawled along the steep mountain slope. Iason, who was to pick us up there, was nowhere to be found. Turns out he was on a grueling hike on the peaks above the town. While we waited, Coral sat at a cafe, drinking a frappe, surrounded by old men. I walked around town, climbing a steep street to the ruins of two mansions advertised at the bottom. They weren't very exciting at all, but I took some photos anyway.
Eventually Iason arrived and we took a crazy fast, but breathtakingly beautiful, ride to Papingo, pausing at a bridge with rapids on one side ideal for trout fishing and a pool of gorgeous turquoise water on the other. The sun was setting against the dramatic coral cliff faces as we wound up snaking roads. We got to his house - in the cutest village ever - met his sister Daphne, her fiancee Dave and their friend Lisa, and went almost immediately to a taverna for dinner. There was plenty of flowery wine and later shots of tsipoura grain alcohol. All the alcohol made us very chatty, and we stayed up late discussing such weighty things as religion.
Monday, June 25
PAPINGO - The vacation aspect of our trip truly began today. We woke up very late, had a big breakfast and slowly made our way to two amazing swimming holes between Mikro and Megalo Papingo. It was so beautiful! The water was clear and turquoise in places, flowing through softly rolling grey rock. Unfortunately it was also ice cold. But very refreshing. I took tons of photos. We hiked briefly to an even more beautiful area with naturally created cone-shaped swim holes called konaki. They were deep and overhung with lush trees, with mini waterfalls emptying into them. The rock walls towered overhead, covered in places with moss that dripped with water like a natural shower. It was like images of paradise. We made our way back through the water.
When we returned to the house we munched a bit and took naps. It was such a good feeling, to be satiated, clean, warm and lulled to sleep by the sound of Dave strumming on his guitar. When I woke up it was approaching sunset. Coral and I went with Iason around the village to take pictures in the fading light. Then we sat at a cafe to watch the sun set against the facing cliffs. Beautiful, again. When we got back, dinner was waiting for us. After eating, I found a big book detailing the history of the region and started reading. It was a little like work, which made me feel a little better.
Tuesday, June 26
PAPINGO - Another slow day. People started to stir at 11 a.m. I volunteered to make some French toast. Afterwards, we sat around some more and then returned to the swimming holes. We didn't stay for long, however, for it was a bit chilly. We went to Mikro Papingo, where Iason's family has another house, soon to be occupied by Daphne and Dave. It was quaint and beautiful, and I was only a little bit jealous. We weeded the front yard and walkway area, which was quite satisfying. Then Coral and I took a walk around the village to take photos and visit a hotel for Coral's story. The hotel owner gave us a little tour, and a shot of tsipoura. Later, we met a friendly yia yia with trendy little black glasses, and went to the churchyard, where a group of men talked about us. Apparently everyone knew about the American girls staying with the Demos family. We returned to the house at Mikro Papingo and had dinner. It grew quite cold. After two bottles of wine and conversation, we returned to Megalo Papingo, stopping along the way to admire the stars.
Wednesday, June 27
PAPINGO - Today we hiked the Vikos Gorge, the deepest canyon in the world. It was beautiful, of course, but after eight hours of almost non-stop hiking, I seriously thought I wouldn't make it back. Our day started early - 7 a.m. We had a light breakfast, then headed to the village of Monodendri with two dogs in the van. It took much longer than I expected, and Coral had a hard time subduing Iason's dog Uba, who kept trying to jump over the seat and slobered everywhere. We bought some supplies in town then headed down the steep canyon walls of the gorge. I thought my knees were going to pop out of their sockets. It was a relief to get to the bottom. We walked along the dried-up riverbed for awhile, hopping from boulder to boulder, which was quite fun. The path then veered left into the woods. We climbed up and down narrow mountain trails, surrounded by beautiful greenery - trees with white bark and like green leaves like birches. Every once in awhile we would cross rocky landslide zones, which were quite tricky because the rocks were loose and easy to catch your ankle on. Also, there were downhill areas lined with teeny rocks and you had to shift your weight as if skiing down the slope. Nearly all of us fell at least once. I nearly went down the mountain, grabbing onto a tree sapling and scraping up by leg pretty badly along the way. But all was well.
We stopped for water while the dogs trampsed about in the shallow water collected at the riverbed. We ate some snacks, but decided to wait a little to et lunch until we reached a spring and swimming area. It took hours to get there, and I quickly became exhausted. The walk continued to get more beautiful, however. We passed through dark, cool forests with moss-covered rocks and trees. Then we passed through alpine meadows that looked like a back yard, perfect for camping. By the time we got to the spring, everyone was tired and hungry. We nearly ran to the water at the sight of it and collapsed. The water was so ice cold it instantly numbed your toes. We didn't care. After eating, I ventured upstream to fill my water bottle and take a nap. When I closed my eyes, my head was spinning. I was drunk with exhaustion. I felt like I had already pushed my body to its limit. I dreaded the rest of the hike, which was purely uphill.
After an hour, we started the climb. The path immediately wove up the mountainside in a steep zig-zag. Whereas the majority of the hike was, thankfully, under the shade of trees, this part was in direct sun. I had to stop nearly every other turn to catch my breath, and the water was gone in almost no time. My heart was racing. The path eventually flattened a bit, then went into the shade of the woods, which was a relief. We passed goats and more landslides. Eventually we got to the river again and mounted the final steep ascent to Papingo. Everyone was giddy with exhaustion. About halfway up, Uba collapsed, and had to be carried on Iason's back. It was definitely the most difficult climb of my life.
When we got back to the house, I collapsed on a bed and willed my heart to stop racing. Eventually I got some rest, falling in and out of consciousness while others took cold showers and drank beer. I took a shower as well and at about 10:30 p.m. we went out for a late dinner. It was so good to eat! We inhaled the food and shared silly conversation.
Thursday, June 28
PAPINGO - I was dreading the pain I would feel when I woke up today, but there was none. I had pretty much fully recovered overnight, which was a relief. In fact, I had so much energy and my muscles were so warm and ready for action I had to do sit-ups as soon as I woke up. We had set aside the day for relaxing, and I waas thankful for it. I made breakfast and sat around while Dave, Daphne and Lisa packed and left to go to Parga and then Athens. I found a book in Lisa's room and started reading. I couldn't stop. I just lounged around all day, reading and listening to all sorts of mellow music Iason selected. It was so comforting. We went into town for a bit to interview people and have frappes. Coral made pasta for lunch, then she and Iason went to Mikro Papingo to retrieve some things, while I stayed behind to finish the book.
Friday, June 29
IOANNINA - Today we left Papingo. It was a little sad. And I wasn't feeling very well. I'm afraid it was the spring water in the Vikos Gorge. Anyway, we got up early, packed the car and headed back to Monodendri. Coral and I wanted to spend time there to gather information for our stories and visit an art exhibit put on by Iason's father. Our first stop was Agiou Paraskevi, an abandoned monastery with some great views of the gorge. It also had a cliffside path that led to some hermitages and caves which was pretty impressive. I was very dehydrated, however, and physically ill, so we went to the village center where Iason and I sat to have drinks and Coral hopped from hotel to hotel. Then we went to the exhibit, two rooms of mostly nature photographs by international photographers. Afterwards we left for Ioannina. I quickly checked into a hotel then went to the bus station to catch the only bus that day to Dodoni, the site of the ancient oracle. Coral and Iason saw me off at the bus station. I still felt ill and having to suddenly figure everything out by myself was a bit overwhelming.
I found my bus and settled into a seat up front, hoping the driver would tell me which was my stop. He did, and I set off on foot for 2 km to the site. Clouds gathered overhead, looking rather threatening, as I approached the site. The rain held as I half-heartedly explored the site. It was okay, boasting an impressive theatre that unfortunately was closed off. But it 's hard to get in the mood to care about the archaeological site when you are alone, sick, know nothing about it, and went through such a hassle to get there. The site took less than an hour to explore and photograph. Afterwards, I had an 1 1/2 hours to kill before the bus returned, so I went to a nearby cafe. Just in time, too, as it started to downpour as soon as I sat down. I watched as tour buses full of recent arrivals scattered. Unfortunately, they all came and huddled underneath the small overhang of the cafe. I was squished between a bunch of loud, middle-age Italians who randomly burst into song and dance.
Eventually, the bus came, after the rain had let up. When I got back to Ioannina, I went directly to the tourist office, which was closed until Monday, I was told by the cleaning lady. What horrid luck. I didn't even have a map of the city! I wandered around and finally found, after much searching, a bookstore with a few English guidebooks. I returned to the hotel briefly, then ventured out again to the mountaineering club to get information about weekend excursions for the article. An old man there helped me in a combination of Greek and English. Then I stopped at a taverna nearby. It was a traditional family taverna, with standard fare. The owner's wife was in the kitchen and his children were running around the restaurant, drawing on bills and slipping them into menus. The only other customers were a sports team celebrating a birthday or something. After that, I called it a night.
Saturday, June 30
IOANNINA - I didn't sleep at all. A mosquito kept me awake most of the night, as well as noise outside and in the hotel. So I got up at the crack of dawn, walked down the street to check out another hotel, and switched rooms. I picked up breakfast along the way. After settling in a bit at the new hotel, I decided to head to the Perama Caves. I managed to buy tickets, locate the bus stop and the bus came five minutes later. I must admit, however, I was having a difficult time understanding anyone. Their accents here are so thick. Anyway, I got to Perama, which was so braced for tourism it was frightening. In Ioannina, you'd think tourists never came - it's impossible to even find a map of the city. But in Perama, every store had signs in English, German and/or French, and it seemed every house was renting rooms. It depressed me a bit, especially since I was the only tourist there and not about to buy anything.
The cave was huge. Just as I arrived, two bus loads of Greek high school kids unloaded as well. We managed to be on the same tour. Luckily, the tour guide kept me at her side and explained everything in English, even though at one point it meant stopping the tour, shining her mini spotlight on me, and ordering the kids to move aside and let me through once when I got stuck in the back, much to my embarassment. There were lots of stalactites and stalagmites, but unfortunately they were lit with yellow lights so you couldn't see their various natural colors. Also somewhat unfortunate, yet amusing, were the names given to some of the formations, like the manger scene with three magi and the inexplicable Statue of Liberty. The tour lasted 45 minutes and ended with a climb up 163 steps, which I was dreading, but hardly even got winded. Very satisfying.
When I returned, I went in search of a travel agency to find out about other excursions and the arts festival. I could not find the one I had in mind and got completely lost, getting a nice tour of residential Ioannina along the way. I found another bookstore and bought a guide to Ioannina that was full of ads. I skimmed the ads and found another travel agency offering hiking excursions and set off in search of it. I found it - and didn't get out until three hours later! It was crazy. The first lady I talked to was quite pleasant. We chatted and she got me a drink and offered restaurant advice. Then she referred me to her manager, who was also quite friendly, but very busy. He kept putting me off, and then when he did sit down to talk, the phone would ring with an "important call" or a friend would walk in the door and he would have to entertain him. Eventually, he helped me. However, his help was littered with self-promotion and rants about his own plans for starting guided tours and cutting deals with foreign embassies or something crazy. Finally, he gave me materials and a valuable contact. He called the director of the upcoming international folk festival, a prominent local doctor, and set up an interview for tomorrow morning. He also tried to get me to go on a whitewater rafting tour tomorrow, then offered to take me to lunch or drive me to the wax museum. He was out of control with hospitality. When I left, he gave me his mobile number and insisted I call ANYtime.
After that escapade, I returned to the hotel briefly to change and relax a bit. Just as I got inside, there was a downpour - the exact same time as yesterday, like clockwork. Eerie. When I left, all the stores were closed in what I imagined was a siesta, conveniently timed to coincide with the rain. I headed over to the old town and castle area, planning initially to have an early dinner then wander around. Instead, I did the opposite. I went inside the castle walls, stopping at a really cheesy tourist shop to buy some amazingly tacky postcards, then headed to the museums. I also stopped at a hotel to get information for the story. I did all the sights, took lots of photos, climbed and explored the castle walls. But I was feeling tired and hungry. Actually, a little ill, which I attributed to eating nothing all day. I searched for a specific restaurant, but it was closed, so I headed for the lake area, where many good fish restaurants are located. It was hard to tell which were real restaurants and which were cafes. I went to the place with the most people and sat down. It was a trendy cafe called the Station, decorated with old train equipment. I had a frappe and sat for awhile. Then I went to a restaurant a little farther up. It was quite good, but I felt violently ill after a few bites. I staggered home, looking for a pharmacy or supermarket on the way, but nothing was open. I took a shower and relaxed instead, which made me feel much better.
Sunday, July 1
IOANNINA - I finally slept, so much so that it was very hard to get up. I went directly to the archaeological museum, stopping only to buy juice. The city was deserted pretty much all day. After the museum, which I sped through, I stopped at several hotels to collect information. Then it was time for the interview with the festival director. I called him several times, but there was no answer. Finally he called me and put off the interview for a bit to attend to a patient. I napped a bit at the hotel until he called again. He sent a young man, Giorgos, to pick me up at the hotel in his car and drive the two minutes it took to get to his office. It was quite ridiculous. The interview, however, went very well. I was led to believe that the doctor spoke little English, but he spoke it quite well. I was there for about an hour and left with tons of information.
After the interview, I felt a great weight had been lifted from my shoulders. I stopped by the park to see if there was a bus to the wax museum. There wasn't. So I bought some newspapers and headed to the island. It wasn't as excited as I had hoped. There were a few restaurants and tons of silver shops. I went to the Ali Pasha museum, housed in an abandoned monastery where he took refuge and was killed. The museum was tiny - 2 1/2 rooms - and pretty lame. I tried to go to the other three monasteries on the island, but they were closed, and I was walking in the hot sun with no water and sore feet, so I quickly gave up and headed back for a frappe. I asked about rooms, because I had hoped to spend the last night there instead of in the fleabag hotel. I was directed to the shore where I had previously been (and noted how deserted and run-down it seemed.) Even a restaurant advertised there was closed. I eventually found the rooms, but they were also closed, with no one in sight to ask about them. So, hot and thirsty, I left the island and returned to the hotel. I took a nap, not caring to leave again, but knowing I would have to because it was so early. I woke up at 8 p.m., hungry and craving pizza, of all things. So I went back to the waterfront and found a pizza place. It wasn't too difficult.
Monday, July 2
IOANNINA - I had another restless night's sleep. But no matter. Today Coral was rejoining me from Meteora, and we would leave in the morning for Parga, Paxos, then home. I am really missing Athens, I hate to admit. I guess two weeks on the road is taxing on a person. Especially with such packed days and the pressure of work and money. I got some breakfast and went to the lake shore to eat it. I walked around and did some window shopping, then bought a few magazines and sat at a cafe with a frappe for about an hour. I went back to the hotel to wait for Coral. When she arrived, we switched rooms and walked to the old city to get a bite to eat, although I was feeling too ill to eat much. As we walked, it began to rain again, right on schedule. This time it lasted longer than before, however. It was still drizzling when we got a taxi to go to the Paul Vrellis Wax Museum, 14 km out of town. The museum was pretty great. It wasn;t just a large room with random lit statues encased in glass. It was a veritable complex, with various settings, most in caves or resembling caves. It was historical in nature, with several War of Independence heroes and, at the end, a few random classical scenes. The best scene was a replica of Vrellis' studio, with a wax figure of Vrellis himself making a statue of the archbishop. As we were admiring soem other pieces of bronze sculpture Vrellis had made in the lobby, Vrellis himself came out and talked to us, in a combination of French, Greek and English. It was the highlight of my weekend.
When we returned to Ioannina, we went silver shopping and stopped by an Internet cafe. The power went out, so we left and stopped by a gyro stand, then continued shopping. We went inside the Castro (castle) so Coral could see the mosques of Ali Pasha and we discovered a nice jewellery shop right outside the inner castle walls. We bought a ring and bracelet. By the time we got back to the hotel we were too tired to venture out for dinner.
Tuesday, July 3
PARGA - Today I felt violently ill again, and the bus ride to Parga was quite painful. We suspected maybe I had developed a sudden lactose intolerance since the hike. When we arrived, I could barely carry my pack. Coral ventured around and found a perfect hotel next to the bus station and close to everything. It was actually quite posh, and the same price as the awful hotel we stayed in in Ioannina and Thessaloniki. I collapsed on the bed and hardly moved for hours. Coral went to the beach. I went as far as the corner store for juice and crackers, which I forced down. It didn't help much. I napped a bit, then met Coral at the seafront to buy tickets to Paxos for tomorrow. Afterwards we went to the Venetian castle perched above the resort town. Again, I hardly made it up the steep steps. I had no energy at all. I lasted for awhile, then had to return to the hotel again. After resting a bit longer, Coral returned and we watched awful music video shows. We showered and went out to dinner at what is the "classy" restaurant in town. I had some pasta - no dairy, just in case - and felt much better later.
Wednesday, July 4
PARGA - Today we went to Paxos. Our companions on the journey were quite... interesting. Old Italians in horrid floral print bathing suits and flashy yellow and black boxer shorts. And all around too much flesh revealed. Part of the problem was we were on an "excursion boat," which under any other circumstance I would shun at any cost, but for this occasion we needed to hit as many places as possible, as quickly as possible, and this was our best option. Plus, I reasoned, it might be good to explore a place as most tourists explore it.
Our first stop was a beach on Antipaxos, a small island off the coast of Paxos dominated mostly by vineyards, where we saw more unsavory flesh. Next we passed by the "Blue Caves" of Paxos. The water was a very beautiful blue, but the caves themselves were otherwise quite unimpressive. We stopped at Gaios next, the main port of Paxos. We were both hungry, so our first stop was possibly the cheesiest restaurant on the island - the Blue Grotto. The "grotto" was actually a little courtyard, decorated with astroturf and fishing paraphanalia hanging everywhere. Seashells were glued around the doorways, and in the shape of fish and birds all along the walls. Inside the restaurant, little putty stalagmites hung down and dots of blue spraypainted were spread randomly around. The owner was very friendly and the food pretty good. I only ate potatoes and hard-boiled eggs, because I still felt ill. But at least now I have an appetite, which is quite an improvement.
After food, we went in search for a hat for me. The sun was so bright I could hardly see. I bought a navy blue fisherman's cap. Coral went to a cafe to read and drink a frappe while I ran around, doing a little more exploring and gathering information for my article. I walked down the shore in both directions and took photos. I stopped by a travel agency, bought a book, and found out about buses to Athens and scuba diving. I also found a scooter rental place. I later rejoined Coral and had a strawberry ice drink. We got back on the ferry and returned to Parga. When we arrived, I suddenly had a huge appetite. We went out to dinner at a traditional taverna along the seashore. I had pasta again and many appetizers. Coral wanted to return to the castle and explore more. We had to hurry because the sun was already setting. It was much more fun the second time around, with food in my stomach and energy. Afterwards we went to the beach and did some night swimming. We were the only ones there, which I was surprised about. The place has been pretty much teeming with people since we arrived. The swim was quite refreshing and enjoyable, until Coral warned me that sea urchins lined the bottom. She had to guide me out because I was blind without my glasses.
Later, sopping wet, we decided to go out for a drink. We went to a horrid resort place right below the castle. Coral was disgusted by its fake waterfall, cheesy lighting, horrid music and scary clientele, which included many blond northern Europeans in tiny dresses who lined up along the bar, flirting with the disgusting Greek bartender and waiters. It is because of girls like that that Coral had to buy a fake wedding ring and we have to deal with annoying pick-up artists. I was more annoyed at our waiter, who messed up our order then forgot to return with my drink. We were sitting on an upper patio as well, with only one other table, so it was unlikely anyone else would come by. Eventually, Coral went down to the bar to get it herself. Despite the annoyances, it was nice being out late, to get some feel of the nightlife. Parge is definitely a family resort, which is quite refreshing. I enjoyed seeing children tagging along with their parents by day and venturing out alone by night.
Thursday, July 5
ATHENS - Today was wonderful because it first meant going to Hell, then home. We got up very, very early. An hour too early, in turned out. But no matter, for it meant we had plenty of time to sit at a seaside cafe and have breakfast. I feel so much better. Only a few isolated stomach-wrenching pains, and my appetite has completely returned.
We got on our riverboat at 9:30 a.m., me tripping over a rope and falling like a fool into the boat. It was another excursion tour, but this time our companion were hip younger Brits. Much preferred, I must say. The boat made its way along the seashore to the river Acheron, the mythical river Styx, which led to Hades, and where Odysseus travelled to visit the oracle of the dead. The scenery was much more beautiful on this boat ride. The cliffs were pale and precariously rock, and the water was all sorts of amazing hues of blue. There were two remote little churches, accessible only by sea, and several interesting caves. We skirted the coast for at least half an hour, much longer than I had expected. Then we approached the river. A hush came over the boat, of expectation I imagine. The water changed from a deep blue to a murky pastel green. Then we were on the river, which was surprisingly lush, with tall reeds on both sides. At first I was concerned because there were docks and tavernas on the left side as we entered, and I thought sadly that Hell was touristy and ruined after all. But soon we were past them, deep in reeds, the occasional dead tree stump sticking out of the water. There were also tons of bright blue dragonflies and an enormous bird with a long, curved neck flew by. It was a bit eerie.
Our Charon for this journey was Vassili, a dark friendly Greek who used his poor command of English to talk about his world travels as a ship crew member. He wove the boat through the narrow river as it twisted and turned along with no indication of when it would end. Eventually we stopped at a set of dirt steps hewn into the embankment. We disembarked and climbed up, greeted by enormous dangerous-looking spiders. Then we trudged through hay fields on a "safari," as Vassili put it, and hit a road way, where we walked for a few kilometers until we reached a small town. On the way, I chatted with a 17-year-old boy from Montreal who sat next to me on the boat.
It was extremely hot. Of course it would be. We climbed a hill, where the ruins of a monastery sat. Hell, or the ancient Necromanteion temple complex as it is otherwise known, was underneath. Quite apt, I would say. After paying our admission at the gate, we went through a little labrynth entrance then found ourselves in a room with a staircase in the corner leading down. No sign or anything, but I knew it must be it - the room where Odysseus supposedly conversed with the dead, the underground sanctuary of Persephone and Hades. I descended into a dark stone room with an arched ceiling. When my eyes adjusted, I realized how small it was. And there really wasn't much to it. Somebody had left an offering of what appeared to be brightly-colored chewing gum in a crevice in the very back of the cave-like room, but that was it. The best part of the experience was watching a group of yia yias slowly descend the stairs, illuminated from above by a single beam of heavenly-looking light.
Afterwards, we wandered a little and admired the scenery. The site was set atop a hill, overlooking miles of plains and mountains. It seemed like such an odd place to put Hell. I was expecting a deep, cold cave or something. But then again, the ancient Greek idea of Hades was a bit different than the Christian fire-and-brimstone Hell. We later went down to a cafe to regroup, then made our way back to the boat. The ride back was on a much rougher sea, which Coral enjoyed thouroughly. She sat at the bow and got drenched. We paused briefly at "Aphrodite's Cave," which was large enough to fit the boat - barely. It was quite beautiful. The water was so blue and clear, and reflected its shimmering light against the cave walls.
We dropped off all the Brits at a beach, then returned to Parga. We would have liked to beach a bit too, but had to return to catch the final bus back to Athens. We were a bit early so we climbed up the stairs to the castle a final time and are at a restaurant overlooking the beach on the other side. It was quite windy still, and made for a dramatic meal. We ate pretty well - garlic mushrooms, Greek salad, briam, and lots of wine. We then returned to the hotel, picked up our things and went to the bus station to wait. Even though it was a long 8-hour journey and we returned to a balcony full of dead plants, it was so good to come back!
