Sunday, August 5
MYTILLINI - We had a bit of a belated start to our Lesvos/Turkey trip. We intended to leave Thursday night, but missed the boat - literally - and had to leave instead last night at 10 p.m. Gale force winds raged all day, however, and delayed the boat's arrival in Pireaus by nearly two hours, so we didn't set out until midnight. We didn't mind much. We set up our sleeping bags on the deck of the boat and were asleep within an hour. I was dreading sleeping on the hard ferry deck, but it was quite nice. We had a great view of the stars, and the cool breeze was fantastic after the sweltering heat in Athens the past few days. I awoke in the middle of the night , vaguely aware that everything on the deck was very wet, including my sleeping bag. But I was still warm and dry inside of it, and that made it even more cozy. I awoke again to see the sun rise on the Aegean. We still had a few hours to go before docking in Mytillini, the capital of Lesvos. We spent most of it reading and drying off in the sun. When we arrived, we called a pension and trudged up a hill through random old cobblestone streets looking for it. There were some absolutely beautiful old houses and despite our heavy packs and the fact that we were lost, we were enamored with the island already.
We eventually found the rooms - they were okay, very cheap - settled in a bit and headed into town. Our plan was to walk around, find a ticket agency and then venture out of town to two museums. Being a Sunday, however, all the ticket agencies were closed, as were all the shops in town. We bought bus tickets, went for a quick bite at a souvlaki stand, then waited for two buses that never came. Eventually we gave up and wandered around town, taking photos and visiting hotels. We headed to another harbor on the other side of town, near the castle, to watch the sunset, and settled in at a waterfront taverna for an early dinner. We went to bed early, planning to wake up at the crack of dawn to attack our super-ambitious itinerary.
Monday, August 6
MOLYVOS - Our day did not go as planned, of course. Do they ever? I wonder why we bother to make plans at all. We did wake up early and headed straight for the castle. But it was closed, as were all other museums. We went to the harbor for breakfast and started to reevaluate our itinerary. We decided to leave Mytillini and go directly to Molyvos, a day earlier than we expected. We went to the bus station and learned the next bus left in two hours. We hurried back to the hostel, gathered our stuff, and headed back down to the harbor to do as much as we could in an hour. We stopped at the enormous Church of St. Therapon, whose huge domes can be seen almost everywhere in town. It was a fantastic church, perhaps my favorite in all of Greece, with a weird mixture of Baroque, Byzantine and Gothic design. Afterwards, we headed across the square to the small but well-stocked Byzantine museum.
We made it back in time to catch the bus and had a pleasant two-hour trip across the island to Molyvos, which stands along the northern shore. The town was touted in all our guide books and materials as extremely quaint and idyllic. When we arrived, we didn't see much of it, because we had to hike 2 km away from town to the campground. It wasn't the most beautiful walk, and I was so tired and hot I didn't enjoy it at all. But heading back into town, viewing Molyvos from afar, it appeared to have been fashioned after a fairy tale. A huge castle loomed high above the landscape, the town itself hugging the hill around it and flowing over a bit into the surrounding countryside.
We had several options of what to do with our day, and our schedule in general, and it was a little overwhelming. The day was growing late and we were both frustrated because we were almost at the end of our second day on the island and had accomplished nothing thus far. We considered renting mopeds and going to the beach and around town, then spending part of the next day in the nearby town before moving onto Eressos, on the southwestern part of the island. We decided to head into town with our beach supplies to find out the bus schedule and decide from there. The only buses from Molyvos to Eressos leave in early morning, we discovered, so we decided to stay in Molyvos until Wednesday morning, make Eressos a day trip and heading back to Mytillini to spend the night and leave Friday morning for Turkey.
After all this decision-making and travel stress, Coral was desperate to get to the beach, so we headed for the lame town beach (the prime beach was a few kms out of town and we had no time to get there before sunset). There were sea urchins and lots of rocks, so I settled on sitting in shallow waters. We laid out to dry, then headed into town, along a row of seaside cafes, and stopped briefly to check email. Then we wandered around the inner streets a bit, and wound up the hill towards the castle. It was absolutely gorgeous! There was one especially beautiful narrow cobblestone street, covered entirely with vines that reached from rooftop to rooftop.
When our exploration was over, we headed down to the small harbor. It, too, was just too adorable for words. We sat at a fish restaurant recommended in all the guide books. It was great. Coral ordered fish, of course, and was escorted inside to choose which one she wanted from a cooler full of fresh fish caught that day. We had beer and wine, and were soon reeling, which made the long walk back to the campsite a little less tedious.
Tuesday, August 7
MOLYVOS - Ack. There wasn't much sleep had last night. The combination of loud fellow campers, annoying mosquitos and the hard ground kept me awake most of the night. We got up early to go horseback riding. We were kind of latching onto a group of about 20 Dutch tourists on donkeys. The tour was supposed to go from 9:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., but the Dutch were late, so we hung out with Mikali and his Dutch girlfriend of sorts at their tin shack of a home. It was a bit awkward, but Mikali was pretty cool, even though he later yelled at me occasionally for my ineptitude on a horse. The Dutch tourists thought we were guides as well, and one woman even handed me a used tissue to throw out for her! I was a bit anxious about riding a horse, since it was only my third time ever and the Greeks train them differently, but Midnight was pretty easy-going. She kept lagging behind, however, then slipping on the pavement when she ran to catch up with the group, which was a bit terrifying.
The landscape we rode through also left something to be desired. And as we were traveling in the hottest part of the day, it almost seemed like a cruel joke put on for the benefits of locals, that tourists would actually pay to ride on donkeys for hours on end through the barren mountains, baking. We stopped for lunch at what first appeared to be a cheesy roadside taverna, but actually ended up having delicious food. We were both ready to pass out with exhaustion, however, and after finishing the meal we scattered to find trees to lay under and take naps. We weren't too successful.
The end of the trip was much better as far as scenery was concerned. But my butt was sore and my arms were scorching and the whole thing was getting rather old. I was glad we took the trip, however. Afterwards, we quickly returned to the campsite, changed into beachwear, and headed for the beach of Efthalou 2 km down the road. We settled for a not as nice, but secluded, rocky beach closeby instead. Once again, we were squeezed for time, and Coral was desperate for water. I was too, actually. We swam a bit then sat on the beach, snacking on cheese and bread and things. I had a quick nap while Coral read. When I woke up, it was already 6 p.m. and we had to leave. As we got up to go, a big mob of soldiers came onto the beach about 200 meters away and started getting ready for a swim. It was a bit surreal - we couldn't tell if it was a military exercise or simply a fun thing, but they were huddled in a big group.
We headed back and took quick showers before going to town. We headed straight for the castle, getting only a little lost along the way on lovely steep streets. We skirted along a rough path on the perimeter of the castle and took some photos. The castle itself was closed, so we went to a cafe nearby and sat with a huge crowd of tourists who were gathered to watch the sunset, which was pretty fantastic - it turned blood red right before descending into the clouds. Afterwards we wandered around, bought some bug spray, and discovered all the tourist shops. We bought gyros at a vegetarian souvlaki stand and sat in a park to eat them before braving the trek back again, drunk on beer and exhaustion.
Wednesday, August 8
MYTILLINI - I slept considerably better last night, but then had to get up at 5 a.m. to catch the bus to Skala Eressos, another seaside town, on the southwestern corner of the island. Part of the ride was really quite beautiful, then it turned into a surreal, ugly moonscape. The town, touted as the home of Sappho, was a rather unattractive little resort destination, packed, of course, with lesbians. We had expected that. Our first stop was to the moped rental agency. We rented a bright blue moped for only $12 and got snazzy red helmets. We then stopped at a store for snacks and a map before heading for the petrified forest, supposedly one of only two in the world. Hmmm. The ride was INSANE! We had no idea it was so far - 23 km - and on such crazy, winding mountain roads. It was made even more surreal by the eerie moonscape all around and the strong wind. I was terrified at first, but Coral soon became quite good at maneuvering even hairpin turns - of which there were many.
When we finally arrived, our legs were shaking and we were hot. I had gotten even more sunburned, which I didn't think possible. The "forest" ended up being a bunch of stumps scattered across an impossibly steep mountain side, and we were about to hike around it in the worst midday sun? Horrific. Furthermore, the ancient stoned stumps weren't even that interesting. It was quite comical. We risked death on an hour-long apocalyptic ride to bake in the scalding sun while looking at tree stumps. And we were surrounded by faucets with water that we could not drink. Evil. Worse still, we had to rush around because we had a strict schedule to adhere to. When we hiked until we could hike no more and reached the top again we lunched and then hesitantly mounted the bike again. The ride back, however, was much better. When we returned to town, Coral gave me a quick lesson on how to drive the moped, and we took cheesy photos of each other driving down a shady avenue. We then returned the bike and headed to the beach. Coral swam while I sat at a cafe.
We took the 6 p.m. bus back to Mytillini and returned to the same pension as the first night. We showered and headed to a great old ouzeri nearby, then collapsed in bed, exhausted. It was so glorious to sleep in a bed again. Mmm.
Thursday, August 9
BERGAMA - We got up early yet again and headed to the port to go to Turkey. We waiting in a somewhat crazy line at customs, then forever on a crowded boat, close to some obnoxious Greeks who quickly got on my nerves. When we arrived in Ayvalik two hours later, we ahd to wait in an even more chaotic customs line. Then we had a few tense moments trying to get money - didn't I learn anything from my trip to Bulgaria 4 years ago? Bring American cash! - and find the bus station in what felt like the most insane heat I have ever experienced. Ayvalik did not seem very inviting. But there were refrigerated water fountains everywhere, which I appreciated.
Eventually we found the bus station and were helped by some very friendly men. Coral stayed with our bags while I ran around trying to find an ATM that worked. I did, and returned just in time to catch the bus. It was quite a nice little minibus, but quite hot and close. We were both nodding off. It was about 1 1/2 hours to Bergama, which was much bigger than I remembered. We trekked across town in the stifling heat, weighted down by our packs, heading in the general direction of the hostel I stayed in four years ago. Back then, it was the beginning of spring, still freezing cold, and we spent the night huddled around a space heater in the bedroom of the young hotel owners, listening to Turkish pop music. When we arrived at the hostel again this time - I remembered the way after all - the place had not changed a bit. And we were greeted warmly by the same young owner, Iven, minus his former business partner. Surreal.
We took a room and had a drink with Iven. Then we headed out again and had a bite to eat at a nearby restaurant. The food was okay, but amazingly cheap - something like $2 for the whole meal! Next we headed to the archaeological museum, and then the Asclepion. We had quite ambitious plans, considering we had less than 24 hours in the city. When we arrived at the Asclepion - a Hellenistic Greek site where Asclepion was worshipped and people would go to be healed - it was about to close in 20 minutes, so we had to hustle. I snapped lots of photos- the lighting was perfect. On the way out, we stopped at the line of cheesy tourist stands and bought a guidebook and some ice cream. We chatted with some of the shopkeepers, one young man in particular who kept offering us a ride to town. After we declined about five times, he followed us out in his car, braking abruptly on loose rocks in front of a military complex, and his car stalled. It was quite funny, especially when a cluster of army soldiers gathered nervously and yelled at him to move on. He couldn't move, but we did, leaving him to work it out. A few minutes later, he was running after us, yelling, "I'm coming!" We walked faster. Later, he drove by us on a moped, apparently on his way to get someone to fix or tow the car. We then saw him again, heading back. He smiled and said hello each time.
Afterwards, we walked to the remains of the Red Basilica - one of the apocalyptic churches mentioned in the Bible - and were met by a young boy who ran out of a nearby carpet store. It was a bit awkward because we were sure it was all an elaborate attempt to sell us a rug, but I think he was genuinely being friendly. He seemed so excited to meet us, it was quite endearing. He invited us in for tea, but we declined. He then insisted we take little presents - handmade coin satchels. After we left, he ran after us with old Turkish coins to put in the satchels. It was adorable. He actually reminded me a lot of a little boy who directed us to a breakfast place four years ago. I'm tempted to say he was the same boy, even, but that would just be too coincidental. Actually, maybe not. It was in the same area, and he would be about the right age. Eerie!
We spent the rest of the daylight hours strolling around the old city. It was fantastically old, quaint and colorful! Houses were painted pink, blue, green, and every color in between. And many had faded into the most spectacular hues. Paint flicked off in places to reveal older layers of great color, mottled to perfection. Then there were the wonderful intricately-worked iron window fronts and balconies. And the people were even more interesting. There were old men and women who looked about 100 years old, both in age and costume, and young children who were so friendly. Everyone was friendly! I felt like I was inside a documentary recording a genuine traditional settlement or something. It's hard to describe, and doing so makes me feel a bit like a snob or something. It just felt so authentic in every way. It was fantastic.
As it started to get dark, we went for coffee at a cafe near the hostel, and ended up having sweets as well, including some great halva. We saw many old men who had by this time become familiar faces, and chatted with our super-friendly waiter. By the time we headed back to the hostel, it was 9 p.m. and I was so exhausted I couldn't imagine venturing out again for dinner. We didn't. Coral went to a Turkish bath instead, and I tried in vain not to doze off until she returned. By the time she got back, I was asleep, so she hung out with Iven and talked about Turkish men for a bit and then went to sleep herself.
Friday, August 10
MYTILLINI - We got up early again to tackle the Acropolis before it got too hot. But first we hit the old breakfast place I discovered on my last trip here. It was perhaps my fondest memory of the city - this tiny room where old men gathered silently to eat bread, fresh creamy butter, honey, cheese, hard-boiled egg, and a strange warm milk with powder. It had been possibly the best breakfast I had ever eaten, and I had told Coral about it so many times, I was thrilled that she would be able to experience it for herself. The place was just as I remembered it. No sign out front, and no indication that it was even an eatery. Again, we were served the freshest, most delicious butter and honey, as well as all the other fixings. Except this time the milk was replaced with coffee and tea in an effort to accommodate us - they had to go to a nearby cafe to fetch the drinks. Three old men served us, one so bent over with age, we wanted to get up and serve him instead. We relied solely on basic gestures and lots of smiles, for these old men certainly did not speak English. The whole thing cost only $0.80 per person!
After the feast, we set off to climb the Acropolis, which is perhaps the most extensive and high, ancient sight I have ever visited. For the first time in a long time, I was bursting with energy. Maybe it was the breakfast. Who knows. It was a long, steep ascent, but thankfully it was early and there was a terrific breeze. We ended up getting off the path and skirted the other side of the hill towards the Theatre of Dionysus, the largest I have ever seen. We were actually glad to have ended up there, for it meant we didn't have to climb down the amphitheater and up again to the rest of the site. Coral was suitably impressed with it all and we took lots of fun photos. In fact, we were a bit delirious with fatigue and heat and thirst. We took a brief rest for ice cream and water before heading back down.
We reached the hotel in perfect time, but it took awhile to wean ourselves away from Iven, who had apparently grown quite fond of Coral in the two hours or so he spent with us, and was begging us to stay at least one more night. By the time we got to the bus station we had half an hour to spare. Coral got a kebab and I made the mistake of going to a pizza joint that had barely opened. The guy working there was painfully slow and I just managed to get my order and pay before Coral came running in to fetch me. The ride back to Ayvalik was pretty uneventful - Coral slept and I sweat.
When we arrived, we dropped our bags at the boat agency and wandered around to see the old city. We were hoping to visit a mosque and shop at the bazaar but neither happened - the mosques were all being renovated and we never really found the bazaar. The old city was okay, not as nice as Bergama, I thought. It seemed so much more run-down and poor, which was at the same time both nice and sad. I like knowing that the people live so simply, but it's sad to think that it is likely because they cannot afford to do otherwise and are trapped in a situation they would not choose for themselves.
We ended up settling down at a random restaurant on some side street near the port. It was surprisingly authentic. No one spoke English and there was no menu. Instead, we were invited to the kitchen to see what they had. We ordered beets, some strange green grassy stuff, beans, eggplants and a dill yoghurt dip which was quite good. We also had enormous beers and tea. We headed back to the boat and boarded with no problems at all. This time the boat was practically empty, with only a few tourists. Customs was a joke. When we disembarked in Mytillini, we trudged back up the now familiar hill to the same pension. We both showered - only to put on dirty, smelly clothes, yuck - then went down to the main harbor to have dinner at an obnoxiously bright and loud taverna that actually had great food.
Saturday, August 11
ATHENS - We actually slept in today, much to my surprise and delight. Coral had planned another early morning and day full of all the activities we weren't able to do before, like the castle and all the museums. Instead, we slept until 9:30 a.m., slowly packed, had a long breakfast - of crepes! woah - on the harbor, and took a bus to Vareia for the Theophilos and Teriade museums. Theophilos was okay, Teriade was fantastic, perhaps one of the best modern art museums I have ever been to. It had amazing Chegall and Matisse prints and lots of other wonderful things. Afterwards we stopped by a cafe while waiting for the bus back. When we returned to Mytillini, we split up. Coral, feeling badly about her reporting for her Lesvos story, set off to find lesbians to interview while I attempted to go shopping. Unfortunately, everything was closed. Again. So I went to a cafe and had a soda, waiting to meet up with Coral, who was about as successful as I was. Ah well. We were both so happy to be getting home to long showers and cozy beds, I don't think we cared all that much. We had dinner on the ferry and slept again on the deck, which was much more dry this time.
