Tips for GM A&G-body Performance, primarily Olds Cutlass
Try these modifications at your own risk!
Horsepower Tips
Ram Air Induction. This may take a little ingenuity, but the performance gain is worth it. Performance gain 1-2 tenths, 1.5-2 mph
WOT Torque Converter Lockup. This is something that can be easily done with some wire and a switch inserted in the proper ALCL (Assembly Line Communications Link) location. This is the wire connector under the dash. On the Cutlass, just connect pin F (TCC solenoid) in the upper left-hand corner to pin A (ground) in the upper right-hand corner to lock the converter. You can expect 1-2 tenths, 1-1.5 mph out of this modification.
Synthetic Lubricants, engine oil, trans. fluid (TCI brand), rear end grease. Replace your standard petroleum based lubricates with synthetic lubricants. Don't use heavy 20W50 engine oil either (unless you have lots of bearing clearance or if your engine uses lots of oil), use 5W30 or 10W30 in most cases. This will free up a couple more horsepower.
Correct A/F Mixture at WOT, approximately 12.8:1 at Peak Torque & approximately 13.1:1 at Peak HP for a NA (Normally Aspirated) engine. An O2 sensor can be used to verify this. An aftermarket sensor from K&N or Edelbrock is an easy way to check your A/F mixture.Correct Ignition Advance at WOT. The correct ignition advance depends upon the many different factors, but will typically fall within 30-40 degs BTDC on a NA engine that runs on pump gas. You may have to add a couple of degrees of advance if you change to racing fuel, as it typically burns a little slower than pump gas. Start around 30 degrees and gradually sneek up on the optimum number, using either a dyno, a dragstrip, or a performance meter (G-Tech or Vericom).
Weight Reduction Tips
Start with a car that has few options. These options, (PW, PDL, A/C, Cruise, T-tops, power seats, etc) can add up to 60-100+lbs to the weight of the car. You may want to consider removing some of these options from your car if it's going to be just a weekend warrior. There are many factory lightweight components that are available if you look for them. I've been able to find all of the following parts at the local junkyards. Together they can add up to a 120+lb savings.
- Aluminum hoods - These were available on '78-'88 Cutlasses. They seem to be more common on the '78-'80 models, although I've also seen them on mid 80s 2 & 4 door cars (The 4 door hood is different from the 2 door hood.) Be sure to get the hinges and springs as well. They're different from the steel hood hinges and springs. Rumor has it that there were 5 Buick aluminum hoods built for Regal G-bodys as well. You'd have to be pretty fortunate to run across one of those. The steel hood weighs in at 38.5 lbs?, the al. version weighs 22.5 lbs, with the latch on it. Total weight savings = 16 lbs?
- Aluminum bumper braces - These can be found for both the front and rear bumpers. This is the large metal piece that the chrome bumper bolts to. The front factory steel brace weighs 31 lbs, the al. version weighs 12 lbs. Weight saving for it is 19 lbs. The rear aluminum brace is 23 lbs lighter than the steel version. Total weight savings for front and rear = 42 lbs
- Aluminum radiator support - These are rare, but can be found. This is the large vertical piece that the radiator bolts to. The stock steel support weighs 24 lbs, the aluminum version weighs 12 lbs. Total weight savings = 12 lbs.
- Aluminum brake drums - These were produced for several years on many different model cars. The cast iron version weighs in at 12.5 lbs. The aluminum version weighs 9 lbs. Total weight savings for a pair = 7 lbs.
- Plastic headlights - These are found on late 80s to mid 90s Ford cars. A parts store replacement headlight weighs 19 oz. The plastic headlight weight 6 oz. Total weight savings for 4 lights = 52 oz (3 lbs 4 oz).
There are also rumors about an aluminum decklid. I've seen a '79 Regal with one, but no Cutlass yet. Be sure to bring a magnet with you to the salvage yard next time.
Lightweight aftermarket parts
- The following list may give you a few more ideas to put your car on a diet.
- Aluminum cylinder heads - 45 lbs
- Aluminum wheels all around with skinny frontrunners - 75-100 lbs
- Aluminum water pump - 7 lbs
- Lightweight racing starter - 9 lbs
- Lightweight 10" torque converter (TCI 243015 is a 3000-3200 stall converter that fits 2004R) - 18 lbs
- Aluminum driveshaft - 7 lbs
- Tubular front control arms - ?
- Lightweight alternator - 5lbs
These components will reduce you car's heft by 180+ lbs. If you're not gonna drive your car on a daily basis you may also consider converting to manual steering, removing the smog equipment (for offroad use only:), lightweight racing seats, removing the A/C and heater, removing all carpet insulation, removing the radio, Lexan instead of glass, removing front sway bar, etc.
These weight reduction tips will reduce your ET by at least 1 tenth per 100 lbs removed.
Traction Tips
Install a positraction differential. If you can't find a factory posi unit in the junkyard, you can buy a new unit from Auburn.
Install a rear sway bar, this will prevent the car from planting just the right rear tire.
Install an air bag in pass.side rear coil spring. Inflate to 10-13 psi for a 12 second or slower car, 14-17 psi for a 11 second car, 18+ psi for a 10 second car. I've heard of pressures up to 30 psi for 9 second cars.
Install sticky racing tires for the strip. Use 26x8.5 slicks for 13 second or slower cars (inflate to 12-14 psi). Use 26x10 slicks for high 10 to high 12 second cars. If you decide to use DOT tires, keep in mind that some of these tires like to have higher pressure. To find the proper inflation for the sticky tires, either ask the manufacturer or ask some guys at the dragstrip, or by trial and error. The proper pressure can make a huge difference in the car's performance. Just a couple of psi can make a half tenth or more difference in ET.
Remove weight from front end of car.
You may consider aftermarket rear control arms (Hotchkiss, SSM, Dick Miller, etc) or maybe box your factory control arms and install polyeurathane bushings (There are many 10 second and quicker Grand Nationals running boxed factory control arms.)
Dragstrip tips
Stage shallow, this maximizes rollout.
A taller front tire maximizes rollout. (hurts your RT, but helps the ET)
Drive around the waterbox if possible. Back into the edge of it to do your burnout.
1979 Z28 |
1985 Cutlass |
1985 Trans Am |
1994 Impala SS
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