|
What
is an Open Tour Bus Ticket?
The
Open Tour Bus Ticket system allows
you to travel between Ho Chi Minh
City
and Hanoi
for a distance of
1730 km. This system began because backpackers wanted to see the whole
of Vietnam without paying for the expensive rail or air
travel.
Those buses cover about 80-90% of Vietnam's
latitude. They transverse the 3 main birding zones (North/Central/
South)
though supplementary transport may be needed to bring you to your
actual
birding destinations.
You may begin your trip at either city and you
can break your journey along the way. The system is designed so that
you travel
in one direction but you are not allowed to head backwards.
For
US$28, you get a booklet of tickets
which are valid for 2 months. At the start of each leg of the journey,
the
relevant ticket would be torn off. The buses will only stop at
designated cities
which are major tourist attractions. They will depart punctually at a
set time everyday
even if there are no passengers onboard.
It
is a very competitive business. There
are many operators in Vietnam
that offer this Open Tour Bus service and many of the lesser ones have
gone
into deep into the red. The most established company, which also
happens to be
the one who started this form of travel in Vietnam,
is Sinh
Café. I found that
their buses were very punctual and were well-maintained.
I
prefer the Open Tour Ticket Buses over
the private minivans for 5 reasons:
1. The buses
are better maintained and have air-conditioning.
2. The bus
drivers tend to drive more sanely. Taking a trip with
the minivan drivers is a hair-raising experience! They have a habit of
overtaking
recklessly and tend to remain on the wrong side of the road!
3. They depart
punctually and do not have to wait until the vehicle
is full of passengers. The buses are often not full so for long
distances, you
get to stretch your legs over 2 seats.
4. They only
stop at designated stops and do not waste time going
round the block to pick up more passengers.
5. The maximum
number of passengers onboard each Open Tour Bus is
fixed so you will not have to be crammed uncomfortably in an overloaded
minivan.
How long would it
take to bird watch across the entire country?
That depends on how thorough you want to
be. If you have limited time (less than 2 weeks) and plan on going the
DIY
route, I would suggest doing just a section or 2 of Vietnam
(Southern/Central/Northern).
If you hire a guide and fly from town to town, it might be possible to
squeeze
in many of the hotspots, though it will be a shame to miss much of Vietnam’s
glorious landscape.
I spent 50 days
travelling from HCMC to
the northernmost tip of the country. During
my trip, there was ample time for a good mix of sightseeing at the
various
historical sites. There were times that I wished I could have afforded
more
than 3-6 days at each of the birding hotspots. In all, I spent 27 full
days
bird watching.
If you are purely intent
on seeing birds to
the exclusion of sightseeing, 30 days should bag you a very decent
number of
species.
As a rough gauge, during the period of 29/3/06 – 16/5/06, I
saw a
total of 232 species, with 113 lifers and 3 endemics. My trip was done
solo
with the exception of hiring just a guide (compulsory by park) at Cat Tien National Park in order to
access Crocodile
Lake.
|
Should
I head norwards or southwards?
Since the Open Tour Bus Ticket only grants
you access to travel in one direction, the question of travelling
northwards or
southwards arises. Below are some considerations:
The weather is an
important consideration
for birdwatchers. If you are travelling in between the monsoon periods,
check
how the winds bring rain there. Vietnam
is a long country and so the southern part can be rainy while the
central or
northern parts remain dry.
Do you intend to get any
shore birding
done? Xuan Thuy Reserve is around Hanoi’s
latitude and is several hours away. On a long 1-3 months birding trip,
especially before the beginning and nearer to the end of the migratory
season,
you will have to plan your route accordingly to see the rare
Black-Faced
Spoonbills.
Do you plan to do a lot
of shopping at
the end of your trip? If so, end your trip at Ho Chi Minh City.
The prices are better and
the product range is wider. Branded backpacks, in particular, are sold
at very
steep discounts. It was very tempting to buy a few more as gifts for
friends
and family members.
This DIY guide begins
from HCMC (in the
south) and will lead the reader all the way to the northern tip of Vietnam.

|