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BREEDING CICHLIDS
WATER QUALITY!!! / WATER QUALITY!!! / WATER QUALITY!!!
BOTH MOUTH BROODERS & SPAWNERS:
First let me tell you why I like to breed Cichlids. When I first started
getting Cichlids I was so impressed with the color and the mating habits,
mouth brooding or spawning and protecting the fry, it is so cool.
But when I would go into the local stores and found nothing new I got depressed.
So some good friends (who are also into cichlids), my wife and I went on
road trips to find new Cichlids. We would make a 4 to 5 hour trip
one way to find them. When we found something new I would try to
breed them so I could sell them to the local store so the next person could
have some . I do not breed fish to make a lot of money, but it is
nice to be able to buy more fish, supplies and tanks. I also breed
fish because the prices out there on some fish are so high you cant buy
them. I also have found some great mail order places to get new fish
(see link page). If you are planning on breeding fish PLEASE, do
not mix breeds. Some Cichlids you cannot get from the wild anymore,
so its up to us to keep the fish the way it was, not to alter it into something
else.
As of 05/06/2000 I have had 21 different species successfully breed
and rear there young.
MOUTH BROODING:
Fish I have bred in the past:
Lake Malawi:
Labidochromis Caeruleus "Lemon Yellow"
Labeotropheus Trewavasae "Red top"
Iodotropheus Sprengerae "Rusty"
Melanochromis Auratus
Lake Kyoga:
Haplochromis Obliquiden "Red tail"
Fulu-Swamps:
Haplochromis Portholes
Lake Edwards:
Pseudocrenilabrus Multicolor / Egyptian Mouth
Brooder
Fish that are currently breeding:
Lake Victoria:
Haplochromis Ruby green
Lake Tanganyika:
Tropheus Moorii "Kipili"
The first thing that I have to say is "WATER QUALITY". Keep your tanks
clean and your temp and pH constant and you will have no problems.
I don't have the right temp or pH for some of my fish (according to some
people) but by keeping the temp and pH constant my fish are breeding. A
good temp I have found is from 78 to 82 and pH of 8.0 to 8.5 This
is one of the coolest things I have ever seen. Males will get more
intense color to them and sometimes the females will also, depending on
the species. The male will shake (like he has a fever) in front of
the female and tries to lure her to a spawning site. This could take the
male up to a week to get the female ready to mate. The spawning site
is a flat surface like a rock or drift wood or he could dig a pit down
to the glass. When the female is ready she will follow the male to the
spawning site. The pair will swim head to fin over the spawning site.(
a kinds fish 69 lol) The female will lay some eggs and the male will fertilize
them and the female will pick them up and hold them in her mouth.
When the female is done she will find a place to hide so she can rest and
get away from the male. He of course is never done mating.
During the brooding period, from 2 to 4 weeks depending on the species,
the female will not eat. It is very important that the female has
enough places to hide or remove her and put her in a small tank alone.
(I use either a 5 or 10 gallon tank) Moving a mouth brooding female:
This is easy but you must be careful. First I get the small tank
ready by filling it with water from the tank the female is in. (this will
remove any chance of shock) Next I catch the female (I move my females
after 10 days of brooding by using a fine mesh net so if she spits out
her eggs or fry I don't loose them) During the transfer from one tank to
the next the female should never leave water. Once you catch her
lower some kind of container in to the water and put the netted fish into
it. (leave the fish in the net) Next, lower the bowl and netted fish into
the new tank. Make sure the new tank has a good hiding place in it so the
female will feel safe. Release the female and you are done.
Once the female has released her brood leave her in the tank for a few
day and really feed her well, then replace her back into the main tank.
If you leave the female in the main tank to release her fry you will find
she will protect them by letting them back into her mouth when danger comes
around. She is only able to do this as long as the fry fit.
After that they are on there own and the female along with any other fish
in the tank will eat the fry. Nature came up with mouth brooding to protect
the species. There are fewer fry per batch than that of spawners
but the fry are bigger from the start so they have a better survival rate.
STRIPING A MOUTH BROODER:
This is not hard to do and if done right does not harm the female at
all. What I do is after 14 days of brooding I catch the female .(in
the manner mentioned above) and instead of putting her in a tank I put
her in a plastic bucket about half full of water. Now there are many
ways to do this but I will only tell you what I do. Making sure your
hands are very wet put the female in the palm of your hand and hold her
gently (remember she must not be removed from the water) OK, now
I use a plastic paper clip (small) and gently open her mouth with it.
The fry will swim out, when they do kind of move your hand back and forth
a little so the fry will not get back in moms mouth. If you are having
trouble getting any fry to come out two things are happening. One
she is not ready to strip yet, put her in a small tank for a few days and
try then. Second: She may only have a few fry and you might
try gently rubbing her jaw a little that sometime makes the fry come out.
Either way this should not ever tank more than like 5 min. If it
is than stop and either leave the female in the bucket (put a lid on it)
for about 30 min and try again if still nothing than put her in a tank
and try in a few days. If I strip fry the female goes back in the
main tank. The only reason that I strip fry is because it is easier
on my females so they don't go so long with out food.
SPAWNERS:
Fish I have bred in the past:
Lake Tanganyika:
Julidochromis Regani "Kipili"
Lamprologus Meleagris Pearly Ocellatus (shell
dweller)
Lamprologus Ocellatus Gold (shell dweller)
Neolamprologus Brichardi "Daffodil"
Neolamprologus Leleupi "Yellow"
Neolamprologus Multifasciatus (shell dweller)
Fish that are currently breeding:
Lake Tanganyika:
Julidochromis Marlieri "Mugara"
Julidochromis Ornatus "Mbete"
Julidochromis Transcriptus "Zambian - Gombi"
Lamprologus Caudopunctatus "Redfin" (shell
spawner)
Neolamprologus Brevis "Katabe"
Neolamprologus Kungweensis (shell dweller)
Neolamprologus Leleupi "Dutch Orange"
Fish I am trying to get to breed:
Lake Tanganyika:
Altolamprologus Calvus Nangu (received on
05/12/2000)
Altolamprologus Gold Head "Mutondwe Island"
(received on 05/12/2000)
Chalinochromis Brichardi (received more on
05/12/2000)
Chalinochromis N'dobhoi (received on 05/12/2000)
Julidochromis Regani "Kipili" (new pair in
breeding tank)
Lamprologus Fasciatus (received on 05/12/2000)
Neolamprologus Christyi (got them on 05/12/2000)
Varibilichromis or Neolamprologus Moorii (in
breeding tank)
Soft music and floating candles are a nice touch, it might get your
fish in the mood. Spawning Cichlids are very territorial when mating.
Your first clue that a pair is going to mate is they will pick a spot in
the tank and dig a hole, so it is very important to have lots of rocks
so they can make a cave. Some fish will use a flower pot or other
items you can put in the tank for them to use. After the cave is
ready they will defend that area of the tank so watch your other fish,
you might have to remove some so you don't loose them. You will notice
the pair fighting, this is normal, they want to make sure that the other
is tough enough to guard the territory. Then they will spawn in the
cave, some will spawn on the roof of the cave others on the side or bottom
depends on the fish. After about 10 days (for most cichlids) the
fry will hatch and may venture out of the cave. Now the parent fish
get really aggressive, the territory will start to enlarged as the fry
get bigger, so again watch your other fish. Most fry that come from
a spawn will grow slower than those from a mouth brooder. Here again
I have most of my breeding pairs in 20 gallon long tanks so I save all
the fry and so my other fish don't get beat up. If you have never
seen a breeding pair with there fry it is something to see. The gravel
looks alive, it's like a bunch of fleas on the bottom of your tank. Parent
fish stay above the fry and watch for any other fish that might try to
eat a fry or two. I have found with the spawners that I have, that
up to 3 batches of fry can be left with the parent fish. After that
the older fry will need to be removed as they parent fish will start to
look at them as a threat to there territory and start to attack them.
What I do is after the 3rd batch is about 2 weeks old, I remove all the
fry and clean the tank. This way I only have to disturb the parent
fish every few months. Spawners use shear numbers to insure that
at least a few fry make it to adult size and breed.
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