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Black Beard
Saturday: Bath, 44.5 mi
Again we were on the road by 9:00, but today we left with a nice breakfast.  This time though, instead of 101, we had highway 55 west.  Same traffic, just a different name; but in all fairness, the folks in North Carolina were great to ride with.  They gave us plenty of room and never crowded us so it wasn�t too bad.  This made the big item on our �to do� list today look pretty enjoyable.

Our big goal today was to make the ferry at Auroa over the Pamlico River by 12:50.  The next ferry would not leave again until 2:30 and we didn�t want to hang around waiting for it.  The ferry crossing was only 30 miles away so we felt pretty confident.  Heck, we felt down right cocky, but that was before we got lost in Bayboro and missed our turn.   We finally got turned back around and we arrived in Auroa by 11:45.   We were still 7 miles from the ferry station but decided to stop at Maw�s Pizza and order a couple of sub sandwiches.  By 12:00 we were still waiting for our food.  By 10 after twelve I told them we had to leave to catch the ferry.  With a really irritable look to go with it they finally gave us our food and we started our race for the ferry. 

By now the wind was up and we took off into a heavy headwind.  We rode as fast as we could and just pulled up in time to roll onto the ferry.  Exhausted we climbed the stairs to lounge and ate our subs.  They were excellent.  It could have been the ride, or the late lunch hour, but as slow as Maw was, her sub sandwiches were pretty good. 

After a forty minute ferry crossing we were on our way to historical Bath. Along the way we decided to make a detour to visit Bayview along the Pamlico River.  It was worth the extra miles to see the old homes along the river and the little fishing village, and even they had their Edward Teach Black Beard historical marker posted by the road for all to view.  Soon we turned left and we were back on the road to Bath. 

As we crossed the bridge into town we saw the sign that told why it was called Historical Bath.  Bath is the oldest town in North Carolina.  Bath also claims Black Beard as a favorite son and they say he even lived there a while.  As we pedaled past the Bath High School, home of the �Fighting Pirates�, we came into the town proper.  It seems that not much has been added since the town was formed.  It consisted of a visitor�s center, our bed & breakfast for the night,
The Inn on Bath Creek, and one antique store.  There were a few private homes in town and also a small marina and a little restaurant as we crossed the river, but that was pretty much it for Bath.  I guess that�s why ole Black Beard left; sort of dull.  They did have a very nice waterfront park and we enjoyed sitting on the benches and relaxing after supper before heading to our room.
The Inn on Bath Creek
Historical Bath
Sunday: Edenton, 64.6 mi

We ate blueberry pancakes and sausage for breakfast and started out by 9:00 or so.  That seems to be our standard starting time, but everything else was going to change today.   Our original plan was to stay in Plymouth tonight and bike into Edenton on Monday, but the weather station was calling for heavy rains Monday so we decided to bike on to Edenton today.  That was change one.  The other was the wind.  It had been blowing from the NW at 5-10 the past few days.  Today it was from the NE and blowing 15-25!  Of course we were biking NE.  Doesn�t it always work that way?  Like I say; sometimes you�re the statue, some times you�re the pigeon. It looked like we would be the statue today.
Things started out well enough.  The road was lined with trees and the wind was still light.  About ten miles down the road I was in front when we passed a turtle on the side of the road.  I decided I had to save that turtle from getting mashed so I stuck my arm out to signal that I was stopping.  That was OK, but what I was really doing was slowing down to make a big U-turn in the road and head back to get the turtle.  Well, Susan decided to pull beside me since I was stopping so she started pedaling harder.  I swung out to make my U-turn and I heard her yell something like, �what the #@$%^ are you doing, you dumb *?@#! !!�   The next thing I knew I was laying on my back in the middle of the road looking at the sky.   I was still straddled the bike and my mind was working hard to make sense out of what just happened.    I did a mental check of all my extremities and they seemed to be working OK, and better yet, none of them hurt too bad.    I looked over at Susan and her bike was lying on its side and she was lying across the back wheel with her legs entangled among the two bikes.   My bike was lying across the road like a road block with the back wheel on the center line and the trailer stretched out behind it.  Susan�s bike was perpendicular to it at my back wheel.  It was a scary sight.  I was able to slide my leg out from under my bike and help Susan get untangled from hers.  Neither of us had even a scratch!   We quickly got her bike up and off the road and then the two of us stood my bike and trailer up and rolled them off the road as well.  It was amazing that neither of us was hurt, but it seemed a miracle that the bikes were not hurt either.  So many things could have happened badly; a car could have been coming, one or both of us could have been hurt, the bikes, trailer, or panniers could have been damaged.  Nothing.  I did do a quick look for the turtle, but he must have high tailed it out there.  Good thing too, because I was going to drop kick his butt across the road.  We climbed on our bikes and very gratefully rode off.  OK. I know you�re trying to decide who was at fault here, but that�s not important.  I didn�t say anything to Susan for not anticipating that I was going to turn.  I mean, what else could I have possibly been thinking?  As it was the bike angels had a way of punishing the guilty party before the day was up.
It turned out our crash was at the beginning of a lot of open farm land. The wind was picking up and there were no longer any trees to block it.  Susan was now in the lead and I was struggling to keep up.  It was all I could do to make 8 mph.  The wind was relentless.  I wasn�t sure I could keep this up much longer.  Finally I had to stop.  We had ridden about ten miles since the crash and I was beat.   I told Susan I wasn�t sure I could make 65 miles in this wind.  The surprising thing was Susan was still strong.  I decided to pull the trailer off and see if everything was OK with the back wheel.  With the trailer off I tried to spin the back wheel with no success.  It seems in the crash the rear brakes had been knocked off center and they were dragging.  I had just ridden ten miles with my back brakes on! After adjusting my brakes the wind was still tough, but it was much easier.

We rolled into Plymouth around lunch time.  We decided to eat and take a break before heading on to Edenton.  I think we were just putting off the dreaded 32 bridge.  We had heard so much about it I was even a little apprehensive.  The biggest problem was the length.  It was about 4 miles across the Albemarle Sound and that meant at least 20 minutes for us no matter how bad it was.  It also had a low guard rail and the cross winds were known to be pretty bad in the afternoons. 
The 32 bridge from atop the highest section.  Check that cross wind and 2' high guardrail!
We were about 17 miles away and it was 12:30 so afternoon winds were going to be the standard for us.   Plus it was a windy day.  Susan was really nervous and when I tried to smooth her fears it didn�t help much.  She was worried about the wind, the low guard rail and the high section we had to cross.  I told her the good news was the wind was blowing us toward the center of the bridge and then she worried about getting hit by a car.  I tell you the woman would complain if you hung her with a new rope.  But before we even saw the 32 bridge we had those before mentioned 17 miles of headwinds to plow through.  As we pedaled out of Plymouth into those headwinds I could sense Susan was about to have a "code red bad mood that would make the comet that wiped out the dinosaurs look like someone knocking over a lava lamp" (I don't where I first heard that saying but I have been wanting to use it for a long time and it really fit the mood here).  Needless to say I just kept my head down and watched my front wheel roll around.  It wasn�t long before the bridge stretched out in front us.

Susan pulled over to physic herself up for the crossing.  I, on the other hand, was actually relieved.  The shoulder was wider than I had expected, and the traffic was almost nonexistent.  The big sign that said,� Bicyclers beware of dangerous cross winds and low guardrails� was a little disconcerting but the ride across turned out not be as bad as was expected.  The best part about crossing was we soon turned left and that headwind we had fought was now a tailwind that pushed us the last seven miles into town. I will say it was a great relief to see the Hampton Inn at the end of the day.  It was as tough a 65 miles as I have ridden in a while and just as we pulled under the portico it started to rain.  I was glad we were here.
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