By Adil Zareef
The hotel, where renowned celebrities like Professor Arnold Toynbee, Rudyard Kipling, Sir Winston Churchill (as a young soldier journalist on his way to Malakand), Quaid e Azam, King Nadir Shah of Afghanistan (in 1929) and so many others stayed, was witness to a century of unfolding history. Built in 1913 on 7.21 acres with sprawling lawns and colonial legacy. Memories of “Made in Berlin” piano dated 1897, embossed tall mirrors, varnished wooden floors in the grand ballroom with antique chandeliers are still vivid. It symbolized an understated architectural elegance of Victorian period and attracted lots of admirers from across the world.
So did many Peshawarites, who had taken their “city of gardens” for granted. They couldn’t believe that a monument like Dean’s Hotel will disappear out of sight - besides many other colonial buildings, parks, trees dating back to 500 years or more. All of a sudden Peshawar is becoming a smoke filled, overcrowded, arid city, exhibiting hideous, tasteless, carbuncles of concrete and plaster, grossly disproportionate with the graceful pavilions, verandahs and elegant classical buildings that once dotted the Cantonment area. The presence of old trees lining the main boulevards and roads lent it a serene ambiance.
“Once a boulevard city lined with exquisite trees, scents, and foliage, Peshawar has now lost its charm. It is no longer the romantic Casablanca of the subcontinent as mentioned by many travelers and writers. It is fast becoming a Chinese shanty town”, observes a respected Professor of Geography, Dr. Mohd Said, who is visibly shaken about the way unplanned development is going apace. With the “market forces” in full swing and unresponsive civil society - the temptation of instant monetary rewards, - abetted by the thoroughly corrupt bureaucracy has helped in demolishing all vestiges of a 2500 year- old living city for mindless consumerism.
It all started with the advent of the Afghan Jehad, as over 2 million refugees besieged the city. Besides the demography, the nouveau-riche culture invaded the once tranquil town. Drugs, guns and quick money changed the socio-economic and cultural values. While the war was waged on ideological grounds, its outshoot was, among other ills, obscene materialism. Following the “civilized world”, Pakistan has passionately embraced the consumer-capitalist western model, but it also waged a “jihad” for the same “cause” with greater perils.
In the after math of this historical deluge, the middle class that had traditionally upheld the centuries-old values came under tremendous pressure. The elite was indifferent to the emerging challenges, and as a result took to greener pastures in posh localities in Islamabad and Lahore. Important political families of Peshawar have all but abandoned their heritage. Senior bureaucrats from this province are more interested to champion environmental causes at Margalla hills and Lahore! The real inhabitants, who are at the mercy of events, are forced into the daily grind of hard living and can barely spare time for altruistic causes. In the meantime, a new moneyed upward mercantile class has emerged with no cultural roots or sophistication. Many tribal drug barons, timber mafia lords and racketeers dictate the social standards. With abandonment of middle classes from active social role and rise of religious fundamentalism as a new defining agenda, heritage, environment, culture have been relegated as “western inspired” or worse, “secular idea” that must be extirpated.
By the end of eighties, real estate prices had already spiraled beyond imagination. A new breed of entrepreneurs – the “builders” – was born. They were taking over the old city, demolishing historical structures with brazen impunity. The remnants of the walled city, and the historic gates finally gave in to this aggressive assault of money and rapacity. Much earlier, in the 1970’s, the city “managers” had cut down the Great (Bunyan) Pipal tree at Shah ji ki Dheri, described by Shin Fa Hian and Hiuen Tsang the famous Chinese pilgrims and historians who traveled this place in 400 BC. According to H Tsang “ Its branches are thick and the shade beneath, somber and deep. The four past Buddhas have sat beneath this tree..” The famous stupas built by Kanishka to the south of the Pipala tree have also disappeared. Another historic tree belonging to Kanishka period was cut down only recently in Ander Shehr.
The timeless Chowk Yadgar building has been demolished to make another revolting structure. The original elegant Shaheed mazaar at Kissa Khwani, has been given a “new” marbled surface with ugly canopies. The “Old Panj Tiraths” mentioned by The Gazateer “As the name would indicate, there are five holy bathing places or tirthas, shaded by some sacred pipal trees of great age. The Brahmins trace its origin to the five sons of Pandu – the heroes of the Mahabharata .. . . the site is a place of great veneration to Hindu community”. Now a derelict fisheries center stands there. No protest, by the Hindu extremists in India over this post-partition sacrilege. Double standards galore!
One can go on lamenting the official apathy towards heritage. The Masjid Mohabat Khan, built by the Mughals is decaying. These are our prized historical possessions that are being deliberately defaced. Why? I spoke to Zahoor Durrani who owns the prestigious “Sehrai Travels” and runs the Khyber Safari to Khyber Pass mostly for foreign tourists. “ I am tired of approaching higher ups with suggestions to rescue several havelis, Bala Khanas, the Chitrali Bazar with exquisite houses, with great potential to foreign travelers, but it has fallen on deaf ears. It is heart breaking. Nobody seems to care”. Some European tour operators, with practical ideas to preserve our magnificent heritage, approached a senior bureaucrat. They felt it would encourage tourism with financial dividends. The tourist industry could get a boost as well as the “image” problem that Pakistan suffers. The government rejected the proposal outright.
It seems that the policy makers want to get rid of Gandhara heritage, as it does not conform to their perception of Islamic ideology. This creates confusion in declared policy and the ground realities. Consequently, Peshawar valley is rapidly losing its precious Gandhara heritage, and it’s culture of tolerance. Instead, a volatile Talibanised society has emerged. Besides, tourism will “obstruct” this strategy. What happened in Afghanistan is an eye opener. It was the most cultured and tolerant society. The Mujahideen targeted historical sites, plundered the prestigious Kabul Museum, and have almost demolished the renowned Bamiyan Buddhas and other historic artifacts. The Taliban have destroyed the socio-cultural ethos of Afghanistan in order to pursue the “purification” agenda of sponsors. One only shudders to think what could be next in store for us. Another theory contends that Lahore is being promoted and publicized as a liberal and cultured “face” of Pakistan at the expense of other cities. “ It is pure hypocrisy”, a critic observed.
“Like a painting . . . as far as the eye could see were fields of blossoms. In spring near Peshawar the fields of flowers are very beautiful indeed”, gushed Babur in his memoirs.
“ The numerous gardens and scattered trees were covered with new foliage, which had a freshness and brilliancy, never seen in the perpetual summer of India. Many streams ran through the plain. Their banks were fringed with willows and tamarisks. The orchards, scattered over the country, contained a profusion of plum, peach, apple, pear quince, and pomegranate trees, which afforded a greater display of blossoms that I ever before witnessed; an uncultivated parts of land were covered with a thick elastic sod, that perhaps never was equaled but in England. The agreeable avenues and handsome houses extend not only over the suburbs, but also over the whole of the gardens which surround the city, and are adorned with the richest vendure; and adequate idea of grandeur of which is not easily conveyed by words”, Mohan Lal, (Travels in Punjab) London; Circa 1846.
Reading these travelogues one can easily float in ecstasy. The city of gardens - the sprawling Shalimar gardens as described by Elphinstone, the Wazir Bagh, Ali Mardan Gardens that encircled most of Peshawar, traversed by streams, lakes and rivers giving a surrealistic picture of Eden – if not more. Imagine this was only a century and a half ago. The Sikhs plundered and burnt Peshawar in 1820’s. Shalimar Garden and other gardens were ravaged. Earlier the white Huns were responsible for similar devastation.
This remains the most dreadful part of history.
When the British built the cantonment in 1849 on Ali Mardan Gardens, the trees were chopped off for the grand colonial buildings. But they did extensive planting along major avenues and buildings. The Mall was known as Thandi Sarak. It had a cool, verdant atmosphere even during sweltering heat. The main roads were until 1980’s still lined with trees. Prof. Mohd Said says, “ Trees not only lend shade, but also contribute immensely in absorbing CO2 and in giving oxygen. Besides, cutting down atmospheric pollution, they also serve to absorb sound pollution. Why the policy makers could not save trees in their planning is puzzling. As in other places they could be included in the foot paths upon widening of roads”.
But the matter is much more serious than meets the eye. The British had tough laws and regulations regarding trees and buildings. One could not dare cut trees as it was considered a major offense. Also, the buildings and development had to follow certain restrictions. The Cantonment Board has been notorious for its misdeeds. Top officials pilfer millions in cutting down historic trees. Even the military personal and MES become silent abettors. The rules are broken with impunity and it is considered business as usual. After the 1990’s as Pakistan embraced the IMF dictated “privatisation”, it opened the floodgates of corruption and murky dealings, resulting in demolition of centuries old state owned and private buildings. Double-dealings of valuable public properties became blatantly brazen.
Recently, several huge Sheesham and Banyan trees were felled inside the GPO, Saddar, within seconds – upon orders from a “serving” minister of Pakistan Post Office Pakistan. He was also responsible in cutting a dozen Sheesham, Banyan, mulberry, and Eucalyptus trees inside the compound of University Campus Post Office, despite resistance by the local staff. The sham auction showed receipts worth Rs. 40,000 for the entire swindle. The post office gives a look of a desolate barrack. Environmental legislation and enforcement is weak and everyone gets away with murder and a million in his pocket. Where is the accountability?
The elegant St. John’s Church has also fallen victim to the organized timber mafia. Every time, the MES officials visit the premises to choose a few trees that are felled and “transported”. No questions asked! Once it was lined with a jungle of enormous trees but looks bare now. The Peshawar Club, the “jewel in the crown” of the cantonment is now the “Garrison Club”. It has lost its elegance. Most shady trees gone and the once graceful architecture now overshadowed with tacky constructions. The Company Bagh (vestige of the historical Ali Mardan Bagh) has been denuded of ancient trees and instead stands a vulgar “fountain” and a dusty playground. A dozen more huge trees (belonging to 1550’s) along the intersection of Fort Road and Khaled Rd. also disappeared in 1999, under strict supervision of “high command”. The list is endless. No accountability!
According to reliable sources the previous Cantonment Board Executive Officer, from Punjab, pilfered millions since 1995 destroying the pristine beauty of Peshawar, denuding trees and demolishing historical buildings. He broke regulations by allowing construction of haphazard plazas in the middle of Arbab and Saddar Road, changing it into an “urban wasteland”. There are no checks and balances, and the military that traditionally played a responsible role, has abandoned its duty. Unless the highest authorities are brought to book and strategies evolved to conform to existing regulations, Peshawar will disappear from the historical and tourist map of the world.
Who would like to visit a city with monstrous shopping malls, sky scrappers and bargain centers? Certainly, it does not define civilization, by any standard. The Citizen’s Forum in Lahore prevented the government from disfiguring Lahore Gymkhana, State Guest House and Staff College. Most thinking individuals are suffering from a collective amnesia or nostalgia. No active lobbying and no civil body exist here. Occasional emotional outbursts by its honored citizens cannot compensate for the crying need to get our act together to rescue Peshawar from the “corporate Huns and Sikhs” of today. Do they care - really?
Adil Zareef
Photo by K. Qadir