| climbingcrags. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| junk. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| so many cliffs, so little time | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| rocks and ratings. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| scales, ratings & grade comparison | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| you never know what you might find here. but that's the beauty of it; neither do I. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| aid ratings. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| A0: Aiders not required; carabiner handholds, piton footholds, pendulums and tension traverses, resting on gear. A1: Aiders needed; bolt or piton ladders, reliable placements, and straightforward cracks. A2: More awkward, strenous or tricky than A1, with or without occassional less-than-perfect placement. A2+: Consecutive placements that won't hold hard falls, but few bodyweight placements and limited danger in the event of a fall; easy hooking and bathooking; scary rivet ladders and fixed copperheading. A3: "5.11" aid; huge air unlikely but considerable know-how required for safe passage; sections requiring multiple tricky or bodyweight placements; expando hazards; complex rope maneuvers. A3+: Crux sections of sustained trickery and body weight placements; bad falls possible, either short and hazardous or clean but long (60+ feet). A4: Extreme aid; many consecutive body weight placements; huge falls possible, with obstacles to hit. A4+: Sustained A4; falls unthinkable from most parts of the pitch. A5: Usually the maximum pitch rating; full rope-length of body weight placements, no drilled holes, dire consequences if a piece blows. A6: Seldom used; reserved for A4+ or A5 pitches above unreliable belay anchors, where a blown piece would strip the entire team from the wall. Note: Pitches done without hammered placements are often given C ratings, where C1 means clean A1, C4 is clean A4, etc. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| mixed ratings. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The relatively mew "M" system applies to winter routes that require crampons and ice tools on rock, called "drytooling." Note that this is a "free" grade; if you hang on protection or hang in your harness from your tools, the M grade no longer applies. M1: Requires an occassional drytool move. M2: Involves a couple of drytool moves; beginners should have no problem with this grade. M3: Several bodylengths of very easy M1 or M2, or single drytool moves that require some thought. M4: Mixed routes of any real difficulty usually start at this grade; solid ice climbers shouldn't have any problems. M5: Drytooling requires considerable efforts. Placements can pop, but are generally straightforward. M6: Real possibility of falling; lengthy sections of drytooling. M7: Feels like 5.11+ rock climbing; usually little ice involved.. M8: Feels like 5.12; mostly drytooling on severely overhanging rock; ice is usually spotty patches or detached, free-hanging icicles.. M9: This unconsolidated grade is difficult to pin down, but can involve entire pitches - or numerous pitches - of M8. M10: Generally regarded as 5.13 drytooling. M11: Generally regarded as 5.13+ drytooling. M12: The highest grade; not fully defined, as there are only a couple in the world. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| more ratings >>> | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| go. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| more junk >>> | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| BEEN THERE. DONE THAT. A travel journal by Karla. That's me, not you. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||