climbingcrags.
junk.
so many cliffs, so little time
rocks and ratings.
scales, ratings & grade comparison
you never know what you might find here.

but that's the beauty of it;

neither do I.
aid ratings.
A0:  Aiders not required; carabiner handholds, piton footholds, pendulums and tension traverses, resting on gear.

A1: 
Aiders needed; bolt or piton ladders, reliable placements, and straightforward cracks.

A2: 
More awkward, strenous or tricky than A1, with or without occassional less-than-perfect placement.

A2+: 
Consecutive placements that won't hold hard falls, but few bodyweight placements and limited danger in the event of a fall; easy hooking and bathooking; scary rivet ladders and fixed copperheading.

A3:
"5.11" aid; huge air unlikely but considerable know-how required for safe passage; sections requiring multiple tricky or bodyweight placements; expando hazards; complex rope maneuvers.

A3+: 
Crux sections of sustained trickery and body weight placements; bad falls possible, either short and hazardous or clean but long (60+ feet).

A4:
Extreme aid; many consecutive body weight placements; huge falls possible, with obstacles to hit.

A4+: 
Sustained A4; falls unthinkable from most parts of the pitch.

A5: 
Usually the maximum pitch rating; full rope-length of body weight placements, no drilled holes, dire consequences if a piece blows.

A6: 
Seldom used; reserved for A4+ or A5 pitches above unreliable belay anchors, where a blown piece would strip the entire team from the wall.

Note: Pitches done without hammered placements are often given C ratings, where C1 means clean A1, C4 is clean A4, etc.
mixed ratings.
The relatively mew "M" system applies to winter routes that require crampons and ice tools on rock, called "drytooling."  Note that this is a "free" grade; if you hang on protection or hang in your harness from your tools, the M grade no longer applies.

M1: 
Requires an occassional drytool move.

M2: 
Involves a couple of drytool moves; beginners should have no problem with this grade.

M3: 
Several bodylengths of very easy M1 or M2, or single drytool moves that require some thought.

M4: 
Mixed routes of any real difficulty usually start at this grade; solid ice climbers shouldn't have any problems.

M5:
Drytooling requires considerable efforts.  Placements can pop, but are generally straightforward.

M6: Real possibility of falling; lengthy sections of drytooling.

M7:
Feels like 5.11+ rock climbing; usually little ice involved..

M8: 
Feels like 5.12; mostly drytooling on severely overhanging rock; ice is usually spotty patches or detached, free-hanging icicles..

M9: 
This unconsolidated grade is difficult to pin down, but can involve entire pitches - or numerous pitches - of M8.

M10:  Generally regarded as 5.13 drytooling.

M11: Generally regarded as 5.13+ drytooling.

M12:
The highest grade; not fully defined, as there are only a couple in the world.
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BEEN THERE.  DONE THAT. 
A travel journal by
Karla.  That's me, not you.
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