| climbingcrags. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| junk. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| so many cliffs, so little time | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| rocks and ratings. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| scales, ratings & grade comparison | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| you never know what you might find here. but that's the beauty of it; neither do I. |
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| ice ratings. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Note: The prefixes of New England Ice (NEI), Alpine Ice (AI), and Water Ice (WI) are mostly interchangeable. For instance NEI 5 is close in difficulty to AI5 and WI 5; the primary difference is geographic -- the AI grade means that the route is in an alpine environment. NEI is self explanatory, though back East they factor commitment into the grade, meaning that a NEI 3 near the road is technically harder than a NEI 3 in the backcountry. WI routes are usually near a road. Many climbers use WI to rate their routes, regardless of where they are. WI 1: Low-angle ice that you can climb with only one tool. Competent ice climbers don't require a rope. WI 2: Steepening terrain, though you usually will only need one tool. WI 3: WI 2 with the occasional near vertical section.. WI 4: Requires two tools and mostly frontpointing; vertical ice mixed with lower-angled bits.. WI 5: Continuous vertical ice; placing protectio is strenuous; expect at least half a rope of this terrain. WI 6: Vertical to overhanging (rare) ice; ice may be rotten and difficult to protect.. WI 7: Laborious, usually rotten ice that requires extensive cleaning; tool placements are difficult; protection is sparse; leader feels lucky to have survived the pitch.. |
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| commitment grades. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Grade I: Short (a couple of pitches); near a road. Grade II: Longer climbs; up to five pitches if moderate and near a road. Grade III: Serious multi-pitch routes with some difficulty of retreat, or very sustained technical difficulty; some parties may take a full day. Grade IV: Exceptionally long and committing moderate routes (possibly remote or at high elevation); very difficult free or mixed free-and-aid clibs of eight pitches or more. Grade V: For free-and-aid climbs, most parties will bivouac while strong parties will take a full day. Grade VI: Requires at least two bivouacs (speed ascents of Yosemite walls excepted) and perhaps 10 or more; on continuously difficult rock. Grade VII: Very remote and long alpine wall lcimbs. Reserved for the biggest Baffin Island and Himalayan walls. |
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| more ratings >>> | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| go. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| more junk >>> | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| BEEN THERE. DONE THAT. A travel journal by Karla. That's me, not you. |
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