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Wolf Rock

 

900' West ButtressRising to 4535 feet, Wolf Rock is a 900 foot rock pinnacle located in the west central Cascades. Seldom written about, it offers both serious multi-pitch technical climbing as well as some airy scrambles that adventurous hiking climbers can handle.

To get there, turn off Hwy.126 just west of McKenzie Bridge toward Blue River Reservoir. Pass the reservoir and Ranger station, cross a bridge and turn right on U.S. Forest Service Road 15. Drive approximately 8 miles on this gravel and dirt road. Bear right at the Y intersection shortly before Wolf Rock. Don't worry, you can't miss it when you're getting close. Park in one of a couple parking spots along the road near the foot of the West Buttress.

 

 

 

Rising to 4535 feet, Wolf Rock is a 900 foot rock pinnacle located in the west central Cascades. Seldom written about, it offers both serious multi-pitch technical climbing as well as some airy scrambles that adventurous hiking climbers can handle.

To get there, turn off Hwy.126 just west of McKenzie Bridge toward Blue River Reservoir. Pass the reservoir and Ranger station, cross a bridge and turn right on U.S. Forest Service Road 15. Drive approximately 8 miles on this gravel and dirt road. Bear right at the Y intersection shortly before Wolf Rock. Don't worry, you can't miss it when you're getting close. Park in one of a couple parking spots along the road near the foot of the West Buttress.

The Summit of Wolf RockAt least five different routes exist historically as documented by the Mazamas, but many variations are possible. Routes exist on the north, west, and southwest sides. The non-technical scrambling route is from the southwest side. Other routes include the West Gully of the Amphitheater, the West Ridge of the Amphitheater and the Hogback Chimney which splits the north face directly above the Hogback The North Face and West Buttress are the multi-pitch technical climbs.

The route to scramble the Southwest side of Wolf Rock starts from the parking areas along the road. Walk along the road looking for signs of a climbers trail leading up into the trees. It should move up and to the left eventually coming out into the dramatic echoing stone cirque called the Amphitheater. Traverse across the stone cirque and turn right up a ridge.

As you climb above timberline and onto steeper moss covered rock, look up towards the crest ridge. There are ten rocky projections visible as you look up multiple rock ribs and ravines above you. Stay to the right and looking for a solid rock rib which runs up to and between the two most similar sized rocky points along the summit ridge. To reach the summit which is the right hand pinnacle, either traverse right across a smaller rocky cirque high up the West Buttress, or climb to the pinnacle just left of the summit and descend a chimney to the saddle which runs between these rock horns.

You should check with the US Forest Service before planning a climbing trip to Wolf Rock since protective regulations for raptor nesting prohibits any climbing activity on the mountain between early January and July. The scrambling routes are best attempted in dry conditions since the moss can be very slippery when wet. Earlier spring and later autumn trips to this area may require four wheel drive vehicles, but during the summer months most cars with normal ground clearance should be able to make the drive into the area.

There are many other rock pinnacles scattered throughout the Cascades and else where in Oregon and the western states. Some are known well only to local climbers while others like the Smith Rocks group are internationally renowned. For more detailed current information you can refer to climbing organizations like the Mazamas, Obsidians, or the Mountaineers, as well as other smaller local climbing clubs. Rock gyms and web sites also offer information that can lead you to adventures waiting in the mountains.

 

 

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