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| Technical Info. |
| This section list some of the main problems for the Pulsar/EXA. It's anything from engine troubles to replacing bulbs in the instrument panel to even the minor things that some of us may have. If you want me to add anything just e-mail it to me. |
| One of the main problems with the Pulsar is the power transistor. A small, silver in colour, box just to the right of the engine (DOHC only). This little box is what controls the four ignition coils. If it seems like you are running on three cylinders from time to time and you have already replaced that one problem cylinder then you should probably have the power transistor replaced. That will most likely solve your problem. It's kinda obvious on how to replace it. Remove a few bolts and disconnect two wires and then put in the new one and you are set to go. |
| Another of the more common problem is the high beams staying on. When the low beams are turned on the and the high beams come on instead then it's either a dirty switch or the plates inside it are worn. Remove the light switch assembly and disconnect the wires. Remove the light switch from the rest of the assembly (THIS IS NOT YET FINISHED) |
| The rear defogger is one of the minor problems which is fairly simple to fix. With the defroster button pushed in and the light doesn't show, check to see if the inside brake light comes on with the brake depressed. If it does then the left wire connection on the hatch (or Sportbak) needs to be adjusted to where it is all the way down. If the light on the defroster button does show then check the wire connection on the rear window. Make sure both wires are secured. |
| Manual gearboxes could have a few different things that could go wrong with it. Shifting into first, or sometimes second, and you hear grinding that just gets worse everytime you shift you may just want to go ahead and get the clutch replaced. If you don't do it now then what will evertually happen is it will not go into gear or go in gear and won't come out. I know that by experience. Also, if driving down the road and it starts popping out of gear (will be widely spaced apart in miles but the mileage spacing will get closer together) then this could be one of two things. Either the fork in the final gear is breaking (or broke) or it could be the synchronizer on its way out. |
| Lift supports for the hatch are just one of the other little things that goes wrong, of course that's just something that goes out on any car over time. When looking for a new set of these make sure you find the right kind. Look for the ones that have the same end with the eye loop so you can use the original bolts. |
| With todays car modders many are changing the instrument bulb colour. This will also help you if you just need to change a blown bulb. What you will need to do first is remove the light and wiper switch assembly. One screw on each one and then disconnect the wires. Next is to remove the instrument cluster, three bolts on the bottom and three at the top under the lid, then remove cluster. BE CAREFUL FOR THE FUEL/WASHER WIRE. Disconnect the fuel/washer warning light wire before fully removing the cluster or you will break the wire. You are now ready to remove the gauge unit, two screw on top and two on bottom. Make sure it is not the screws that hold the clear cover on. You want the whole unit out. After the screws are taken out, move the unit straight out SLOWLY so that you do not bend the speedometre cable. Turn over and you will see the bulbs on the back of the unit. Reassemble in reverse order. Remember to reconnect all the wires and be cautious about the speedometre cable. |
| Any of you been in a little fender bender and need to take off the front bumper to replace it? No worries, here is what you do. The first thing that must be done is to jack up the car and secure it (unless you're small enough to slide under it, but mind you, the car is low at the front). Now look underneath the car and you will need to remove the plastic piece between the bumper and radiator housing (SE Model). Next you will need to remove the bolts along with the metal strip. Then there are two more bolts, one on each side in the fog light opening (XE Model simular). Now move along to where the bumper meets the front wing (fender). Three nuts are holding the bumper to the front wing (four on the SE Model). There is one way up on the inside of the bumper, you will have to feel around for it because you will not be able to see too well. After that is done, open the bonnet (hood) and pop up the lights. Remove the grill (four bolts) to access the upper metal strip and bolts. There are two more, again one on each side, behind the corner lights. Now the bumper is ready for removal, that is after you take off the marker/signal lights. Reassemble in reverse order. |
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| Ball-joint information and pictures comming soon. |
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