Durango Deuce Engine Parts XVII
Here is the initial leakdown test. I have a dedicated Nitrogen bottle to supply, clean dry stable pressurized gas source. 100 psi is pumped into the cylinders with the piston at TDC. The breaker bar on the crank is used to rotate the piston back and forth until the reading is stabilized.
Notice that the no valvetrain other than the valves are needed to do this test.
It is much easier to find out something is not sealing and fix it at this point than after the engine is in the car.
The gauge is showing 6% leakage which is good at this stage. After break-in the reading could go lower.
TDC had to be verified for accurate cam degreeing. The front cover required a special pointer. The adjustable Tavia unit I bought didn't fit right so I had to modify it. Once everything fit I was able to get TDC smack on.

Notice the aluminum Fluidamper. This unit is very expensive (about $400) but it is very light weight. It's also fully degreed.
The oil pump had to be scienced out. Mike and I decided to try and make the front sump work rather than try to fit a rear sump. We had Aviad mate a Ford style road race sump to a Chevy II pan core. A stock Melling pump was modified with 55 psi relief spring (GM PN 10044435).
Even with a short 3.25" stroke the rod bolts come close to the pump. With a 3.75" stroke the pump would have to be ground.
The short Chevy II drive shaft was modifed to accept a pinned steel sleeve. I had to drill and tap one of the ARP studs to mount the pick-up tube.
A special, billet oil filter adaptor was installed to eliminate the bypass. A one piece pan gasket was used to prevent leaks.
The dipstick was a problem that required welding a pipe fitting and bending a tube. A 'Swedge Lok' is used to install the tube in the pan and an Adel clamp holds it to the head. The dipstick was calibrated to the correct oil level. You do not want to overfill the pan. This picture is obviously out of sequence. Ready to test fire!
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updated 10/22/03
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