1. Adjust front fork static preload. On a non-adjustable bike like the across, this is normally accomplished by opening up the fork tubes and putting a PVC spacer into the fork above the metal spacer and below the cap. This will increase the compression that the spring is under and give you a firmer ride. Jack the bike on the header tubes (it can handle it - this is normal practice for bike stores). Raise the bike front end just enough to get the front tire a touch off the ground. Be careful when you open the fork tube as it is under pressure from the fork springs. The cap and spacer can pop up and put out your eye quicker than Dolly Parton before the operation. Jacking the bike first minimises the tension on the springs. Get some orange 32 mm PVC conduit or similar, and make two spacers up of a desired length (see below). The wall of the PVC should be quite thick, at least 3mm as it has to provide a decent surface to stop the top of the relatively thin walled metal spacers that you will find at the top of the fork tube. (These things are long, about ~25 cms.) With orange PVC piping you might have to grind the outside down slightly to get it fitting neatly past the thread at the top of the fork tube (the thread that mates with the fork cap). You might want to experiment with spacer size. Some Across owners have used 20 or 25 mm spacers. I was uncomfortable with the rigidity given by even 15 mm spacers and ended up using 10mm ones.  Make sure that the spacer is nice and clean with no shavings. You don't want any crap in the fork oil blocking up important orifices. Don't worry as the PVC is quite strong and should hold up ( I was concerned myself and asked at a bike store, and was told it was OK & really strong). If you are nonetheless worried about your spacer installation, open up the forks within a short period of time (eg a week) & check to see how they are wearing. Some people drop the forks a little bit (eg tops of forks 25 mm up from the clip on's surface) to compensate for the increased front end height of the bike with the spacers, or to make the bike a bit more agressive looking, or to speed up the steering via the reduced steering head angle. (PS some people are putting in 20c pieces instead of the PVC conduit... I'll leave it up to your discretion as to what's best!)

2. Adjust front fork rebound characteristics. There are two ways you can do this; I only recommend one. 1. Take off the forks, drain oil totally (#10 weight oil is stock), and add the right level of 15 or 20 weight oil to the forks. See the Suzuki Across workshop manual for info on how to do this. generally, you can mix quantities of different weights to get just the right result. 2. Add a bit of fork oil to the forks. (not recommended.) In modern forks adding a small amount of oil, say 15 mms worth, should be enough to notice some difference, so if you go for this method don't go putting in oil up to the top of the fork leg. This could be really dangerous, because if you don't have any sag in the forks (distance that the fork moves when the bike's weight is lifted off it) then the bike is likely to lose front end traction during braking. That could hurt. Personally I am reluctant to move outside Suzuki's spec of 90mm oil level from the top of the leg, measured with the spring right out of the fork. I think adjustments should be made with the right level of oil and just a different weight. Nevertheless, as long as you don't take up too much fork sag then this method will certainly firm things up.       Suspension fluid needs to be changed every couple of years, as it tends to break down and thin-out over time. This could be why it may be too soft for you.

 
 

A quick thread on ride height & the rear springs included here; Author  Boofhead Newbie Posts: 1 (4/23/02 11:14:39 am) Ride Height --------------------------------------------------------------------------------  Is there any way to adjust the ride height. I am a solid guy and have found that the ride is too soft in the rear for my liking (The bike not the bum). Can someone tell me how to increase it. Thanks  michael Regular Poster Posts: 107 (4/23/02 2:37:30 pm) Re: Ride Height --------------------------------------------------------------------------------  Dunno what to do about the rear end, besides jack it up to it's hardest setting. Maybe there is aftermarket suspension that will fit; if you find something at a store/wrecker, let us all know. The front can be made harder and a spacer will probably bring the bike up a bit, see my page for a couple of notes (link to this page appeared here) good luck  Rich Registered Member Posts: 47 (4/23/02 9:39:39 pm) springs --------------------------------------------------------------------------------  yeah, agreed, I'm on no. 6 on the rear shock to raise the rear end a bit, so I don't know how everybody else goes for rear springs. Just use the crazy looking c-spanner out of the tool kit to fit around the shock preload collar and turn it to a harder setting, I think it ranges from 1->7, std. is 4. The preload collar will probably be really hard to move, but it does eventually. Depending on what you weigh, a stiffer spring might me required as preload doesn't affect spring rate, only sag. Good luck  Jas91 Newbie Posts: 2 (4/24/02 11:42:19 am) Re: springs --------------------------------------------------------------------------------  I'd try getting the shock re-valved aswell as a new spring. I guess this would cost a bit and it might be hard to get an Across spring form a shop, but it'd be a better idea than just winding on pre-load. If you're heavier than an average rider for an Across ( 70kg? ) then it's the spring not the shock that needs attention. Jas.