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２００１年８月 ６日 『クリスマスという名の街』
Im in Natal. Already past 2weeks since I left Salvador where I was spend five months.
So now Im travelling again. After Salvador stayed Recife, Olinda both
cities just a day each, then Joao Pessoa while 5 days. I found some good
things there, and I couldnt left there early, well Im in a hurry now.
I hope leave Brazil as soon as possible because my visa permitted stay
just untill today. So this time is 3rd one that I over staying in this travel.
I heard that its not problem here Brazil that stay over if pay 8 reals
per day, but I dont care pay more, but I wanna also stay longer though.
Maybe tomorrow leave here and going to Fortaleza, after some business.
Im just in a hurry, and I can take bus that send me earlier, but I wanna
also having fun other place in Brazil.
I suppose to should pay more
than 80 reals when I out from Brazil.
Memo:
Natal Hotel 12 Reals
* 9 days Sergio Mendes, Elis Regina, Carlinhos Brown etc. LP 2 Real. Used
CD from 3 Real.
Jul 22 - 27 [Joao Pessoa]
Hotel
pousada MAR AZUL room No.24 25 Reals * 6days
Disco from 1real
@3real
bus 510,513 to Tambau
Jul 21 [Olinda]
Albergue Olinda 15 Real * 1day
Jul 20 [Recife]
BRASIL HOTEL 10 Real * 1day
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２００１年 ２月１９日〜６月１９日 『サルバドールで過ごした五ヶ月間』
「男なら一生のうちに一回はブラジルへ行っておくべきだよ。」ある人にこの魅力的なアドバイスをもらってから約５ヶ月が過ぎた。
そして今、ぼくがそのブラジルへ来てから既に半年が過ぎた。この国はその人のいうようにぼくを魅了しつくした。今ぼくは言いたい、その言葉を。まだブラジルを知らない他のだれかに。
２００１年２月１９日、カーニバルの始まる前日にぼくたちは１０日間の大移動を完遂してコロンビアからこのブラジル東海岸の街サルヴァドールに到着した。
サルヴァドールのホドビアリア（長距離バスターミナルのこと）からタクシーに乗ってペロリーニョと呼ばれる地区までやってきた。
通称ペロと呼ばれるその地区はカラフルにペイントされた建物のみやげ物屋などが軒を並べるサルヴァドール観光の中心だ。
石畳の坂道は人がいっぱいでタクシーが動かなくなったのでぼくたちはそこで降ろしてもらいさらに賑やかなプラサまで歩いた。熱い太陽に照り付けられて右も左もわからないその場所でぼくたちはまずその日の宿を探さなければならなかった。
両替はどうだ？ 宿は決まったか？ とすかさずいろんな奴らが寄ってきたけど覚えたばかりの「オブリガード（ありがとう）」を連発してかわした。
ぼくはコースケと荷物を見張っていると坪ちゃんとオーカワ君がある男を連れてきた。ムラート（混血）だけど白人に近いその男は「コンニチハ！」と日本語でいって握手を求めた。日本語が堪能で聞けば日本に行ったことがあってそこで出会った名古屋の女性と結婚して今はここサルヴァドールで暮らしているのだという。
みんなで相談した結果、そのパウロという男が間借させてくれるという部屋を見せてもらうことにした。その部屋はペロリーニョの中心街のみやげ物屋の二階で大きな窓が三つ並んだバルコニーから美しい町並みやそこを行き交う通行人を観察できた。まっさらな二段ベッドが二つ十分な広さの部屋に置いてあり、そこにはまだマットレスもなかった。どうやらカーニヴァルの時期だけあまっているスペースを貸して儲けるつもりらしい。小さなキッチンも付いていて簡易コンロにプロパンガスが接続してある。シャワーは水だけどこの暑さではお湯は必要ないだろうから問題ない。三階にも一部屋あってそこはまた別で貸したいらしいけど二階のその部屋にはドアがなかったのでマットレスと併せてドアをつけてもらえることを条件に入れてそこを借りることにした。
ヨーロッパの古い小さな城下町といった風情の町並みで坂道が多い道は全て石畳だ。土産物屋や飲食店とカルチャー系の施設や展示場など完全に観光客を意識した街だ。ぼくらバックパッカーを含めた観光客以外は肌の黒いアフリカ系黒人の売り子などのスタッフと近隣の住民が多く目前に迫ったカーニヴァルの熱気と興奮を肌にビリビリと感じる。
順番にシャワーを浴びて汗を流し夕方になっても増えこそすれ一向に減らない街ゆく人々を階上から見下ろしているとどこからか（ズンドンズンダダ・・・・・）と勇ましいタイコの音が聞こえてきた。それも一つどころか十個、二十個といった数で種類も様々、それがどんどんこちらに近づいてくる！ なんだかものすごくワクワクする。皆で固唾を飲んで見守っていると道行く人々も立ち止まって音のする方を見守っている。
そしてやがてタイコのリズムに合わせて踊る人々が坂道を降りてくるのが見え、その後にタイコを叩きながら、そして踊りながら若者達が降りてきた。
皆『ＯＬＯＤＵＭ』と書かれたシャツを着ている。ものすごい熱気に当てられたぼくたちは「ウォー！」と叫んで動物的な直感に目覚めて部屋を飛び出して通りにでた。
（ズッダ、ズダダ・・・・・）とその単純だけど独特のリズムはまるで人間の本能を揺さぶるかのような何かがある。きっとアフリカのスピリッツを含んだものなんだろうけど、農耕民族の末裔であるぼくたちをも惹きつけるのが不思議だ。
時折演奏を続けながら行進をストップしてタイコを持ち上げながら叩いたりなどちょっとしたパフォーマンスで観衆を喜ばせるとまたゆっくりと進み始める。
小一時間もそれについてゆくうちに、ノリのよいぼくたちは当然踊り狂いすっかりハイテンションになっていた。
２０日から始ります、なんてお行儀のよいケチ臭いことは言わない、そんな雰囲気がこのサルヴァドールのカーニヴァルにはありそうだ。
（俺達はいつでもこんな感じさ、楽しみたい奴は一緒に楽しもうぜ）、まるでそう言われているような気がした。とは言え本番は明日から始る。こんな感じで体がもつんだろうか？ちょっと心配になってきた。
＜＜以下気が向いたときに翻訳中＞＞
I arrived here Salvador 19 February 2001 when the great Carnaval started,
and Im just leaving here now 19 Jul 2001, well Ive stayed 5 mounths long.
I wanted to arrive early but I couldnt it because of my body condicion. Why
Ive got a hard desease which called Virouse, the doctor says it likes a
Dengue feaver, is infected by mosquito. But if I had kept my condicion better
wont get it. I was tired at the time little before now. And the Policia do
Estado has started thier strike! I never went out during the days. I never
heard polis strike! But its possible here Brasil because the salaries are
so small. There are lot of thiefs and gangs in the town here Salvador,
and if the polis disappear from there,,,it was terrible. The people who
is normal citizen but poor, go to supermarket and broke wind, entered
inside and went out running grabbed things that they robbed. I watched
it on TV news reports. So it was actually horrible. When my dear came
to my apartment, she knocked the door hard without speaking and tried to
open it hardly. I was so terrible and grabbed a nife behind my back.
Give me a break! I said when I found her open the door. She was just me
anxious. So, now I leave her alone. Its too hard to do it. But I have to
leave. Thank you Silvana for everthing you did for me. Im sure return you
next year!
May 4
The bag that I was robbed got me back. It was founded in the floor of
my room by the owner. The room was locked when it happened. This case
is so mysterious. Who had robbed me? Im trying to dont think it deeply
now. Because I got my passport and some things, and nobody should find
out the offender. But I feel bad because of my MD player that have robbed
is I just bought.
May 3
Ive been robbed this noon when I was sleeping in my room.
I dont beleave as it happend daylight and near me. They say the crime
was done by my friend. But I dont care suspect any my friends.
The things I was robbed this time:
Waist bag:
used 3years since I was in Japan. Like one of my friend.
MD walkman and other equipments:
It just I bought from my friend who shared an apartment with us.
I pay 250 USD to her.
wallet:
has less than 100 Reals of cash, the International Student Card, some memos and with money clip that made from silver with a turquoise
and red stone.
And my Passport!:
This is the most important and sevear trouble. The visa I was gave is
by this May 7. I supporsed to ask to the Brasilian polis for extend
visas limit 3monthes more. I dont know I can do that after I get new
passport. If it wount, I should leave from Brasil as soon as possible.
I saw a girl and falling in love at the first sight. She is so beatiful with
cafe skin. But she has a steady and he's fucking my friend.Damn! I know she likes me from the first meeting too. We cant speek with same langage. She speeks only her native langage Portugues, and I dont speek it yet. We need each
other but we cant do nothing. Oh what can I do? I rally need her now.
But yesterday her boyfriend visited me with a girl, for introduce her to me. She seems to prefer Japanese guy. We kissed after he left, and next day I slept with her. Oh I dont know who am I, what have I done.
I cant see the girl which Im loving true any more. Im really sorry and regret.
Mar 7
Hatsumi, Masahiro, Tsubo, Mika, Tago and Sonnya who shared our apartment
already left, though still some friends come to us Kousuke and me everyday.
After the marverous carnival, I took some percassions lessons. And I got a
record player for listenning music of Brasil inculude Samba Reggae.
There are so many music events here Pelourinho every day, every nights
untill near morning. Im surrounded by good music all the time. The Bahianos
has very good sence of rithm. I cant beat drum like they do. I collecting
records from some small record shop now. Luiz, a rasta man teach me so many
things about music. I have already been taking 6 rolls of fotos.
I think it appears Salvador, especially Pelourinho is very beautiful and
interesting. So Im going to stay hear more and more.
Feb 27
The Carnival of Salvador in 2001 that was the biggest event in this
year for me was over.
Feb second, I danced through the night in the street of Barra beach.
Several stage trailers started from a corner of near the light-house on
and on. So many people walked slowly as dancing hardly around the trailers.
The singers who are bery famous in Brasil, and some of them are from
Bahia regeon sang on the huge trailers. Its like moving live concert as a
dream! I was sorry but I didnt know them the stars of Brasil, but I was
really moving my mind with it. The trailers have some huge speakers on
the both sides and the back wall, and they make very big sounds
unbeleavablely. Unbeleavable, so everything was nbeleavable for me.
The number of people and their energies.
Ive robbed my weist bag
when I was walking beside a trailer.
I was surrounded by so many people, and a man comming from backward then
stoped walking as interrupting my way. When I thought him strange, my bag
was took off from my waist by somebody beeing behind me. I grabbed it in a
hurryand took the bag me back. Other guys who tried taking it away and
running away. I gave a hard kick one of them, and they vanished in the
crowd. I cought a man who stopped me as help other robbers, and push him
for confess himself. Of cause he didnt say nothing. I called to police men
to stop. And shouted "Here is a robber!" in Portuges. But they didnt stop
without a look. So they seemed to dont care what happen besides fighting.
Well, I had not a way besides left him.
Also I saw a lot of fighting in
the night. I think there are that people who are frustrated. Thats why
carnivals are needed for people.
I was dansing all the night as
Bahianos and walk and walk for find a bus for get back to the apartment. I
was walking on a beautiful beach staggeringly, and finally got back to
Pelourinho past 10.
In the morning woke up all room mates for open the
door.
I couldnt sleep well in the high degreed morning, but woke up
three hours later and left apartment for find something interesting.
So
I didnt sleep and rest well during the carnival, but I was actually ZIP!
like to getting energy from everything, everyone. Its really amaging.
Feb 20
Finally, I got Brasil. Here is the place that wanted the most from last year.
It past 19 days since I started from Quito Ecuador. The way untill here
Salvador was a great trip.
On the way of Quito to Cali, there were some trouble during the goverment
and the indians of Ecuador.
Found cheaper air ticket in Cali.
We have watched the jungle of huge Amazon from the plane before we got
Leticiaｴs airport and heated our hearts. But they wellcome us with bad
system. They let us payed something that we arent understanding. I didnt
pay it strictly, and through the gate. They told us that we wonｴt out
without paying, but we through out with nothing.
We experienced a lot of woundering on the Amazon.
Acrossed though down the Amazon river on a small boat twice, from Tabatinga
to Manaus and Manaus to Belen.
The first boared was very nice one, though was little. Served very nice
meal noon and evening. Slept in a small room with two beds three guys.
One of us had to sleep on the floor.
We laugh our selves because we looked really like the Boat People.
But I like the boat.
I was disliking the second boat. Because the meal were just like pigs
eating twice each day.
But we saw the people who living along Amazon river, beautiful sunset,
jumping fishes, some couples of the colorful birds from the deck.
Drinking beer, whisky every day.
We Japanese read lots of novels on
our hummocks.
We bought those nylon cheepers when we were staying Manaus about 6 Dollers.
But those were very nice on the short trip.
And the boat trip was end in Belen, that is a big town laying the end
of Amazon river, has many histories, oldest capital of Brasil, as second
largest city at the Portugals colonial time. Then we got a bus for Salvador
there. We should was on the seat 38 hours long time fighting with hip-aich.
These are just funny experiences by now.
Im listning drums sound from outside.
The carnaval sound calling me "Come on outside and dancing! Stop playing
with such idiot box!"
I gotta go and dance with them, right now!
Because Im comming here do it!
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Photo: The TIMBALADA
Photo: Dancing Kousuke
Photo: one of the fightings
Photo:Barra beach
Photo:Miyazawa of "The Boom" visited my teacher
Photo: tipical food of Amazon "Tacaca"
Photo: On the boat on Amazon river
Photo:meal time of the boat
Photo: on the hammock
com Silvana
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Feb 6 2001 - Sep 4 2001 
ジャンガダの模型を作って遊ぶ漁師の子供たち 
