My Neon Modifications

My Modifications

This is a very old page but it has some info on my experiences with Nitrous oxide. I had to learn the does and do nots when using nitrous. I don't want to see others make the same mistakes I did. Keep in mind these nitrous mistakes are from when I first got my neon and didn't know much about neons.

This is my beloved 98 R/T. It is a 4-door with the DOHC engine. Bought it in Oct. of 1998.

Click on a link, or just scroll down.

Modifications:                                                                               	
These are modifications that I have already made.

2.4L DOHC Motor.....(out of a Stratus).............................................$400
Pacesetter Headers.................................................................$129 Pacesetter Monza Cat-back Exhaust..................................................$149 Nitrous Works Kit 50- 70 hp(I no longer have this kit I sold it ...................$439 Crane Fire Wires...................................................................$31 Rex Motor Mount Inserts............................................................$30 Weight Reduction (more info. below)................................................FREE Straight Pipes out the side........................................................$15 Wider tires 195's instead of 185 factory...........................................$120 Took out power steering and A/C (more info. below under weight reduction) .........FREE Alternator shut off switch...(more info below).....................................$5 Homemade Intake....................................................................$20 Jamex Lowering Springs.............................................................$150 Bored Throttle Body...........( It cost me about 1 hours of time)..................FREE Went back to stock DOHC muffler....................................................$25 Took off rubber seal around the hood...............................................FREE Disabled counter balancing shafts..................................................FREE Made an UPD out of the 2.4L's pulley (cut out the outside with a Lath).............FREE Raise Compression Ratio to 10:1 ...................................................$40

Total..............................(about)...................................$1180

Non-performance Enhancements:


   New Shifter Knob....................................................................$20
   Short Shifter ..(cut 2 in from stock shifter).......................................FREE
   Fog Lamps can be on anytime.........................................................FREE
   Radar Detector that gets it's power from rear view mirror lights power..............FREE
   Cool strobe Lights..................................................................$40
   Some cool stickers..................................................................$5
   Dark Windows Tint...................................................................$15
   Moved Battery to Trunk..............................................................$10
   Painted Some of My Interior parts(vents,instrument panel ring,cruise panels,ect)....$6
   Painted My Side Mirrors.............................................................$3
   Painted Brakes...(used high temp paint) ............................................$3.50
   Strapped my bass tube to top of trunk (not the lip but in the trunk)................FREE
   Howell Automotive Windshield Sticker................................................FREE
   12volt to 120volt power converter with outlet in the trunk (looks factory)..........$40
   Headlight Covers....................................................................$34
   TailLight Covers...(painted Flame Red to match car).................................$80
   Removed Fog Lights..................................................................FREE
   Black Light inside .................................................................$20
   Battery in the Trunk................................................................$30

Future Modifications Planned:

Tires: 205's in front and the 195's in back ...........................................................................$150
*HeadWork.............................................................................................................................$300
*Iceman Cool Air Intake.......................................................................................................$200
*Mopar Computer.................................................................................................................$200
A body kit with Viper Hood, stipes acourse, painted side mirrors, and painted interior..... $$$
Ground Effects..........(Jerry Riggin it).................................................................................. $100

* = This I want badly

I guess I really don't need the underdrive pulley anymore. With no a/c or power steering and an alternator shut off switch it wouldn't do me any good. A normal neon it would do alot of good but not mine. Ground effects would be cool but I hate to spend all that time taking weight off and just start adding it back on.

I think I am going to scrap my nitrous oxide system this summer and goto turbo. Why I am doing this is because nitrous is expensive and takes about 3 hours to go there and back, to get tank filled. Some times like right now I can't find it anywhere! This suck when you have a need for serious speed 24hr a day. It will be nice to jump in my turbo powered Neon and kick ass on almost any mid-size car on the road with 100+ quarters, without having to worry about my nitrous running out in the middle of a race. Nitrous in my opion is by far the best way to go if you don't have a need for speed all the time and only want it for drag racing. A nitrous kit costs about a 6th of a turbo kit ($3000) that can produce the same amount of power as a nitrous system. But if you aren't interested in flying all the time go for the nitrous. You can buy alot of nitrous(65 10lbs. fills at $40) with $2600, which is the difference between a turbo and nitrous. Nitrous doesn't last that long but if you don't make full runs(quarter mile) it will last alot longer. At 70hp I can make about 7 full runs on a 10lbs. nitrous tank which goes very fast. Setting the system down to 25 or 50hp doesn't do alot of good becuase it takes longer to get to the speed you wish for, so the nitrous doesn't last much longer.
Update: Now that I have had so many problems with nitrous oxide I am straping the nitrous completely. Most of the problems I have had are from pushing the motor beyond it's limits. I always ran the nitrous on the lean side and didn't retard timing any. Nitrous was alot of fun while it lasted but if I could go back to Oct. 98 I wouldn't have bought it and would be about $2500 less in debt.

Update:(Sept. 27,99) I am done with nitrous and turbo idea altogether. I will go the safest route which is weight reduction and basic engine mods. I would be nicer to kick butt on other cars naturally without forced induction or nitrous anyways.
Update:(Dec. 2,99) I finally got rid of my nitrous kit. Now I don't have to worry about getting brave on weekend and slapping that sucker back in and totally blowing my motor. I got my springs installed last week too. There nice but not as good as I thought. They make the car look great but the ride is pretty rough.

Update:(Jan. 5,99) I removed my pace setter header today. The flange on it broke. I put my stock manifold on(good thing I kept that old thing). Then I go the header out I was looking at it and everywhere that there was a weld it had craked. I had noticed for some time that my car was getting louder by I just asumed it was just the muffler getting alittle age on it. The stock manifold was easy to re-install (I have a wire welder, makes it easy). Now it doesn't make a sound, I love it! Sound like I have a new motor. I tested it to see how much performance difference it made, it's an unnoticable difference in performance. Now I must admit that I'm not bashing the header's quiality. It is kinda amazing that it held up as long as it did. My motor shakes badly compared to a normal motor and that makes for alot of stress on the header. I will re-pair the header and put it back on when I get my motor fixed.

Update: (March 10, 2000) I am now trying to find me a good motor I have the money to get on just trying to find on with the least miles for the best price. Grrr... I want to find one fast I'm sick of haveing a slow ass car!

How the changes affected performance:(Times are from factory odometer, not an real performance meter)

I installed the headers and exhaust system at the same time. Stock I got 75mph in 2ths of a mile up slight incline. After headers and exhaust I got 78mph in the same distance at the same place. I think that is pretty good for only $300, plus it sounds alot better. It is loud but in a good way. The headers it self was a breeze putting in the hard part is taking off the alternator so you can get to the last bolts on the exhaust manifold. Installing the hearders took longer than putting in the nitrous, but it is still a worthwhile thing to do because I don't think the cat-back made any performance enhancment other than a good sound. The cat-back was easy to put in you just take off the cat-converter, cut off the end and put on the new one that comes with the rest of pipes. The rest of it just slides together. It looks cool with the two exhaust tips out the back on each side.

The nitrous was installed last. I was amazed at how simple and fast to install. It had pretty good instruction and had all the needed parts. The nitrous made a big difference,Well Duh, I haven't been able to test it alot yet becuase it is kinda the off season for nitrous. -Make sure you check to see if anyone in your area sells nitrous becuase I have to make a 3 hour round trip to get mine filled.- Anyway I get about 92mph in 2ths of a mile up a slight incline, which that might not sound that fast but believe me it puts you back into your seat. I think that is pretty damn good for a $430 kit, non-auto expert installing it, and a basic system. I know I could get even getter times if I do alittle fine tuning with the nitrous and get some more traction. I lose alot of acceration becuase of the tires slipping all the way thru 1st and good way thru 2nd gear. I also lose some speed do to the clutch slipping alittle becuase it can't hold all the extra power.

The motor mount inserts are o.k. They reduce wheelhoop and kinda give you a better feel with the shifting. But I don't think I did alot as far as making me go faster. It is more for handling and control than anything, as far as I can tell but I just got them today(Jan 20,99). But it didn't do any harm. There is a little more vibration from the motor but not to any extreme, you will only feel it at start-up, at idle, and a shut down, but like I said before don't let this scare you away from this product because it is not a big deal. Installing it was easy. Took maybe 15 min. to get it off(took about 5min to find tools), maybe 5min to cut the alittle bit of rubber on the mount to fit the inserts, hammered the inserts in, and put it back together(7min.)

The homemade cold air intake thing made maybe 1mph difference in the 2th mile from 78 to 79. It is just pipe that go down to the battery cover. I took the battery cover off and am hoping that it will be o.k.. There is a little hose that is under the battery cover and I think that helps in getting a little more cool air into the engine. I did this more for the nitrous than anything. I now have a more direct shot into the throttle body that I couldn't get with factory tubing.

Weight Reduction:
I was like most people alitlle scared about tring to reduce weight. Becuase alot of the weight that is easily taken out is from the things that make driving more comfortable and reliable. But if your looking for alittle extra speed it will do it. I started out with my non-factory speakers, when the spar tire and jack. Removed fog lamps, rear speakers, back seat, and trunk carpet. When I took out my pacesetter exhaust and just put a tip out the side. Took out any trash, books, cell phone, ect. in the cab. Took off all the power steering parts and the all a/c stuff. I almost never put more than 2 gallons of gas at a time. Gas is pretty heavy! All together I took out about 220 lbs. What did that mean to performance? About 2-3 mph in 2ths of mile.

When I got my neon I got 75mph in the 2ths, after header and exhaust I got 78mph in 2th mile. Today I got 83mph in the 2ths. The increase must be from the weight loss, straight pipe might have helped alittle, maybe the wider tires, and maybe I got better at shifing and take-off, I'm not sure.

Just alittle note that someone maybe interested in. I had a 97 neon sport before I got my R/T and it always got a 72mph in that 2th. I was kinda amazed how little improvment the R/T was over the sport. The R/T felt so much faster than the sport did. I never did anything performance wise with my sport neon. I only owned it 8 months before I traded it in. If you have read my section on 3 cylinder motor you are probably wondering how aity performs. Well I can still get 70mph in the 2th without reving it above 6,000 rpm. That is pretty good. Almost as fast as my first neon with a good motor.

Here is a picture of what the engine looked like after taking out the power steering and A/C stuff.

Alternator Shut Off Switch: I decided that since I had already taken off my power steering and A/C stuff, that it would be pretty stupid to spend $200 on an underdrive pulley. So I cut one of the wires right out of my alternator (I can't remember right off hand which wire it was) and ran another wire from the alternator side of that to a switch in my cab right over my nitrous switch. When ran another wire from the switch back to the other end of the origanal alternator wire. When the switch is on it is like normal but if you turn it off the alternator stops making power and stops dragging the motor down. I know for a fact that it makes some difference in performance because it will idle fast if you are over 3mph. It is probably so little that you would never tell a difference but it is alittle bit more power.
Update: I has since removed this mod not by choice but the wires got caught up in the alternator belt and left me dead on the side of the road. I'll re-install it soon. It is a nice mod to have becasue you can make a slight amount of power with it and you can also judge what things drain the most power taking more power. The defrosters take the most from what I can tell, the light will dim alot under heavy alternator loads.

My Homemade intake:I made it from 2in drain pipe that goes down to where my battery was and has a cheap air filter. I will get a good one here soon. It is covered with insulation and plastic to keep it cool. It made the motor quiter and added some power. This was actually a good performance booster.
Update: I got rid of the intake(pictured at your right) and made a new one basically the same except that it doesn't have the insulation( it feel off and looked like crap), and got a bigger air filter. But still works good.

Lowering Springs:I got the cheap Jamex Lowering springs but I am still happy withthe results. The ride is still half way desent and it's alot lower, I wouldn't want to go any lower. There is really no body sway on tight turns and was pretty easy to install(use a air impact rachet to remove the center strut bolt, it will make installation fast!!! ).

Bored Throttle Body:This was easy to do. I just filed the sides until it was even with the diameter at the buterfly. (You have to be carefull not to file to close to the butterfly or it will affect idle.) It made for better throttle response and probably added a few hp. I have a mill and lath machinery availably to me but I don't know how to use them and my brother that does was gone at the time.

Update: I later bored the TB out with the Lath. It took off much more metal and created a smooth finish. It is now a straight bore all the way down.

Will have a picture soon! Painted Mirrors and Interior:It is really easy to paint your interior parts and mirros. I'd neverpainted anything before and mine looks professionally done. If you start painting your interior just be careful not to go over-board it will look like crap if you paint too many things. i would suggest just painting you air vents(including small ones on upper dash), cruise control on steering wheel if you don't have cruise and just have the blank plugs like me, the fog light and de-frost buttons, and the ring around the intrument panel. I think it looks good if you don't color the interior the same color as the car's color. I had silver stripes so I painted my interior silver, if you have a white car paint it blue or what ever you want. Make sure you take the parts out of the car before you try to paint them. To paint shake can well first, then paint in thin, fast coats(this is the key to making it look good) and do it from about 8-10 in away from part at a max of 45 degree angle(this angle will prevent the can from spiting out spots). When you start to paint, paint the back side of part first. That way if you mess up it don't show and when painting you will get alittle paint blow over. If you paint back first you will notice alittle gets on the front side and leaves little spots. If you paint the back side first then the front it will cover over those spots better.

Mirrors: The mirrors take alittle time but make your neon look so much better it's not funny. You want to try to get the best color match possible. You can buy a exact color match from a paint shop for about $30 a pint or you can do what I did and just get the closes match that the autostore sells, about $2.99 a can. Take the mirrors off car to paint. All you have to do it run a wash rag under you windows nob until the keeper comes off. Then unscrew the screw under (interior) door hand and in the door opener. Pull off cover over the mirror(triangle shaped) behind that there are three little nuts, remove and hold onto the mirror. You can tape you the glass mirror or you can take it out. To take it out you blend back the mirror almost until it brakes and you will see a metal ring in there. Pry at that ring until it comes lose all the way around, the mirror will come out now. You will notice some of the mirror is actually door trim. If you want you can leave the lower trim of the mirror the original black, it will look better. Just put some masking tape titely over the area that you don't want painted. Now clean the mirror off with some rubbing alcohol, don't touch it anymore than you have to once you clean it. Find a dust free place to paint. Let it dry over night after all coats are done. It will be very stratch prone for a few days but will harden up within a week. Install the way you took it out.

Some painting tips:Make sure you take the parts out of the car before you try to paint them. To paint shake can well first, then paint in thin, fast coats(this is the key to making it look good) and do it from about 8-10 in away from part at a max of 45 degree angle(this angle will prevent the can from spiting out spots). When you start to paint, paint the back side of part first. Put on three or four very think coats, allowing 2-3 minutes between. Then on the 4th or 5th coat put it on kinda heavy, not enough to make runs but enough to fill in color and helps smooth the texture. Now allow to dry for atleast 1-2 hours before doing other side(!!!!Don't turn over until dry or if you are painting over newspapers the paper will stick to the mirror and is almost impossible to get off!!!!) Now you have painted the whole mirror or interior part. Now you can put on clear coat. This will make it shine, smooth texture, and will protect. Do this the same as you do the paint. You don't have to use a primer but it wouldn't hurt, I didn't. Remember that the paint will be soft for a few days. Try to leave it out in the sun or warm place, and don't touch the painted parts. I a week or less it should harden. If you have any questions e-mail me I'd be happy to help.