Step-by-step method for making natural skin lotions

Method for Skin Lotions

Like skin creams, lotions are an emulsion of oils, fats and waxes with water. There are three stages to making lotions: blending the fats, blending the liquids, and then mixing them together and adding any extra ingredients (such as essential oils or preservatives).

The only equipment you will need are saucepans and mixing bowls, measuring spoons, a measuring jug, spatulas and a whisk (a handheld electric mixer is a great idea). If you have a culinary thermometer, this is also useful, and special cosmetic thermometers are available to help you keep tabs on the heat of your mixture. [Not essential, but different ingredients have different melting points, and some should not be heated to high temperatures.]

You can use your normal kitchen utensils, provided they are well washed (preferably in a dishwasher) before being used for food again, though if you are going to make creams often, it's worth investing in a separate set of pans, bowls etc. Stainless steel or - even better - enamel pans (or a double boiler) are good choices, but avoid non-stick, aluminium or copper, which may react with some ingredients.

You will also need sterilised jars or bottles to put your lotions into. You can buy these specially, in glass or recyclable plastic, or you can beg old ones from friends and family. Wash jars or bottles first in hot soapy water, then rinse and place in a warm oven for about half an hour. Always leave lotions to cool thoroughly before putting on the lids.

Quantities are given for all recipes, and I have tried to provide quantities for single pots and bulk recipes. When preserved, the shelf life of most lotions is up to two years if kept in cool, dry conditions away from direct heat and sunlight. Unpreserved lotions will go mouldy in as little as a few weeks, which can present a challenge. You can extend the shelf life of unpreserved lotions by keeping them in the fridge, or using air-tight dispenser pumps, but these are not failsafe methods. Additionally, naturally derived preservatives are less effective in the long term than chemical preservatives, so remember to choose the preservation solution most appropriate for you.

Sample Recipe: Basic Body Lotion
Makes just over 100ml

Ingredients:

2g Cocoa Butter
10ml Thistle Oil
10ml Almond or Apricot oil
2.5g VE Emulsifier
4.5g MF Emulsifier
2g Cetyl Alcohol
4ml glycerine
100ml distilled or mineral water
1g Vitamin E
OPTIONAL: 12 drops Preservative
OPTIONAL: 12 drops rose geranium essential oil

Method

1.) Place the cocoa butter, the thistle oil, almond or apricot oil, the VE Emulsifier and the cetyl alcohol (usually in the form of waxy, white pellets) either in a double boiler or in a bowl over a pan of simmering water. Heat gently until the ingredients have all melted (at about 75 degrees Centigrade).

2.) Meanwhile, in another saucepan, heat the MF Emulsifier, the glycerin and the water to the same temperature. You will find that the cream mixes much better if all the ingredients in these early stages are around the same heat.

3.) Remove all your pans from the heat. Add the melted fats to the liquids (not the other way around!), pouring slowly in a steady stream, while beating the mixture constantly. A handheld electric mixer is best for this.

4.) Keeping the mixture warm (i.e. leaving the bowl over the hot water, but making sure the heat's off), continue to whisk for a good 5 minutes. The goal is to make sure the ingredients are all well incorporated and the texture is becoming thick, shiny and smooth, but not to introduce air into the cream.

5.) Allow the lotion to cool to about 40 degrees Centigrade, but continue stirring or whisking. This should take about another five minutes. Then begin to add the extra ingredients, starting with the most viscous - the vitamin E. Add preservative, if using.

6.) It is better, if using the essential oil, to add it once the lotion had cooled to just over room temperature (about 25 degrees Centigrade), as they will start to evaporate at higher temperatures. You can often vary suggested blends of essential oils a little to create a pleasing scent, or omit them if you prefer.

7.) Pour your lotion into bottle(s) and label. Leave to cool thoroughly before putting on the lid, and enjoy! It will firm up as it cools, but if this recipe is too runny, use slightly less water, about 90ml.