Step-by-step method for making natural skin balms, ointments and lipbalms

Method for Skin Balms, Ointments & Lipbalms

Balms are nothing more than vegetable butters, oils and waxes. They often contain herbal or botanical ingredients, or moisturising ingredients but, unlike creams and lotions, they do not contain water-based ingredients, and often use beeswax, soya wax or a similar, harder base material.

Varying the proportions of ingredients will vary the consistency of your balm; harder textures are needed for lipbalms and lipsticks, particularly if you want to use them in tubes, while ointments to be kept around the house for minor cuts and bruises will need to be softer and more cream-like in texture.

The only equipment you will need are saucepans and mixing bowls, measuring spoons, a measuring jug, spatulas and a whisk (a handheld electric mixer is a great idea). If you have a culinary thermometer, this is also useful, and special cosmetic thermometers are available to help you keep tabs on the heat of your mixture. [Not essential, but different ingredients have different melting points, and some should not be heated to high temperatures.]

You can use your normal kitchen utensils, provided they are well washed (preferably in a dishwasher) before being used for food again, though if you are going to make natural skincare products often, it's worth investing in a separate set of pans, bowls etc. Stainless steel or - even better - enamel pans (or a double boiler) are good choices, but avoid non-stick, aluminium or copper, which may react with some ingredients.

You will also need sterilised jars to put your balms into. You can buy these specially, in glass or recyclable plastic, or you can beg old ones from friends and family. Wash jars first in hot soapy water, then rinse and place in a warm oven for about half an hour. Always leave balms to cool thoroughly before putting on the lids. (The method for making lipstick or balms in tubes is slightly different, so refer to those recipes for details.)

Quantities are given for all recipes, and I have tried to provide quantities for single pots and bulk recipes. Because balms contain no water-based ingredients, their natural shelf life - even unpreserved - is much longer than a cream or lotion (up to five years), though you should always check for rancidity in stored balms. It the balm smells bitter, really greasy or 'off', it's always best to throw it away and make a fresh batch.

Sample Recipe: Non-Petroleum Petroleum Jelly
Makes just under 100ml

This has always been one of my most popular products. Petroleum jelly brands (such as Vaseline) are brilliant for a multitude of uses, but as they are petroleum-industry by-products, many people are not comfortable using them. Additionally, mineral oils and petroleum by-products of this nature, in the long run, can damage the skin, as it becomes dependent on the barrier moisture provided by the mineral oil, rather than striking its own, healthy balance. Adding beeswax will make for a firmer balm, but you can omit it if you prefer, or for a vegan-friendly recipe. Vitamin E helps prolong shelf life, and gives an extra nourishing boost.

Ingredients:

30g Cocoa Butter
45ml Grapeseed Oil
OPTIONAL: 5g natural unrefined beeswax
OPTIONAL: 1g Vitamin E

VARIATIONS: If liked, add a few (3-5) drops of peppermint or vanilla extract (culinary grade) for a lovely glossy lip balm. Alternatively, replace half of the grapeseed oil with calendula or arnica oil and add 3-6 drops lavender essential oil for a soothing all-purpose household balm to help heal minor bumps and scrapes... the possibilities are endless.

Method

1.) Place the cocoa butter, grapeseed oil and beeswax (if using) either in a double boiler or in a bowl over a pan of simmering water. Heat gently until the ingredients have all melted.

2.) Stir thoroughly, making sure all the ingredients are incorporated. Remove from the heat and cool, adding the vitamin E and any essential oils you are using.

3.) Stir well, and pour into jars, cooling thoroughly before putting on the lids. Balms firm up a lot as they cool but, if you are unhappy with the texture, you can always re-melt it and add a little more cocoa butter or beeswax for a firmer balm, or more oil for a softer version. Play around with the recipe until you have a balance that suits you perfectly.