Glossary of natural skincare ingredients and raw materials
Sample methods and step-by-step guides for using these ingredients.
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The INCI name is the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients designation, usually a Latin or botanical name. Makes labels make sense!
All of the natural skincare recipes on these pages use primarily the same ingredients: fats and waxes, such as vegetable or nut butters, beeswax or carnauba wax; fruit, nut or vegetable oils such as almond, olive or coconut oil; water - whether mineral or distilled - and herbal or botanical extracts, either in water (known as hydrosols), or concentrated extracts. Creams and lotions are made by mixing water and fat together (a bit like making mayonnaise) and so vegetable emulsifiers are also used.

I have included additional natural ingredients and additives I use in the glossary, though I have not listed all the different essential oils. As essential oils are very concentrated and strong dosages of some should not be used by those with certain medical conditions, or anyone pregnant, planning to conceive or breastfeeding, I recommend consulting a qualified aromatherapist or at least your GP before using them yourself. Also, some excellent in-depth reference guides to essential oils are available both in print and online, like this one at Aromaweb.com.
What does 'natural' mean?

It may seem like a fairly obvious question, but 'natural' is a bit of a loaded term. Primarily, I define natural skincare as using vegetable, fruit or nut butters and oils and botanical ingredients, and it is perfectly possible to make skincare products using nothing more than that.
However, 'natural' can also mean derived from natural ingredients, or even sythesised versions of natural ingredients, so a close eye on companies claiming that their products are natural is needed. Similarly, a product can be called 'organic' if only a certain percentage of its ingredients (anywhere from about 50% to 90%) are certified organic so - as ever - it's important to read labels if you're concerned.
If you're making your own skincare products and want to go beyond the basics, there are a lot of additives and peculiar-sounding compounds available to do just about every job. The majority of these are vegetable-derived and natural, though it becomes harder to make a completely organic product when you move beyond just vegetable oils, fat and hydrosols.
AHA Natural Fruit Extract - A favourite ingredient of commercial companies, naturally occuring Alpha Hydroxy Acids are excellent moisturisers and may help promote cell renewal. I often use a blend of bilberry, sugar cane, sugar maple, orange and lemon by Aromantic.
INCI name: aqua; extracts of Vaccinum myrtillis, Saccharum officinarum, Acer sacharinum, Citrus aurantium dulcis, Citrus medica limonum

Allantoin - the active ingredient of comfrey root, often obtainable as a powder and very useful as an additive in recipes for sensitive skins, as it is protective and softening.
INCI name: Allantoin

Almond Oil � A mild, semi-fatty oil with a good texture, suitable for most skin types. Used as a carrier oil in massage, or as a base oil in making creams and lotions. Softens skin.
INCI name: Prunus amygdalus
Aloe vera - concentrated aloe vera, available as a liquid or powder, can be diluted to make up aloe vera gel, which is an excellent light and hydrating skin moisturiser. The concentrate can also be added directly to recipes.
INCI name: Aloe barbadensis

Anti-Acne Active Formula [Andiroba Oil] - Another Aromantic product, though I'm sure available elsewhere, I've had good results with this fair trade rainforest compound. It is sold as a blend of Acai oil, Andiroba oil and Copaiba Balsam, richly antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, and is added in small quantities to a wide range of products.
INCI name: Copaifera officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) Resin, Carapa guaianensis Seed Oil, Euterpe Oleraca Fruit Oil

Apricot Kernel Oil � suitable for dry, mature and sensitive skins, this oil is easily absorbed and semi-fatty. A good carrier oil or addition to creams, massage bars, lotions and so forth.
INCI name: Prunus armeniaca

Argan Oil  - an oil rich in linoleic acid, helps reduce inflammation. Excellent in massage oil or lotion recipes for damaged skin.
INCI name: Argania spinosa
On to page 2 of the glossary
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