Step-by-step method for making natural exfoliants, scrubs and peeling creams

Method for Exfoliants, Scrubs and Peeling Creams

Exfoliants or scrubs for the face and body can be as simple as ground dry ingredients that may be mixed to a paste with water and applied as required, or they may be made up in advance and preserved as scrubs, soaps or creams and used as part of your weekly skincare regime, or even a luxurious facial.

For simple scrubs you intend to keep as dry powders, you need do nothing more than use an old coffee grinder or pestle and mortar to grind up your ingredients. Scrubs to be kept in tubes will need preservatives to prevent mould growth, while peeling creams (a great natural home alternative to dermabrasion) are really just like making ordinary creams.

You will need bowls, measuring spoons, a measuring jug, spatulas, a handheld electric whisk, saucepans and a pestle and mortar or old coffee grinder. You can use your normal kitchen utensils, provided they are well washed (preferably in a dishwasher) before being used for food again, though if you are going to make skincare products at home often, it's worth investing in a separate set of pans, bowls etc.

Shelflife will vary according to the type of product you make: dry powders will last well, but should be disposed of if they begin to smell musty or dull. As ever, unpreserved products with water-based ingredients can go mouldy, which can present a challenge, so remember to choose the right preservation solution for you.

Sample Recipe: Body Scrub Powder for Oily or Blemish-prone Skin

Ingredients:
1 cup whole or milled oats
1 tbsp fullers earth or kaolin clay
1 tbsp brewers yeast
1 tbsp grated zest grapefruit or lemon (you can also use finely ground dried lemon peel)
2 tbsp dried calendula flowers
2 tbsp dried peppermint leaves
OPTIONAL: 12 drops ylang-ylang essential oil, or 5 drops lemon essential oil, 2 drops thyme essential oil and 2 drops tea tree essential oil

Method:

1.) Mix the dry ingredients together and add the essential oils. Place in an airtight tub and use as required. To use, mix the scrub to a paste with peppermint, lavender or witch-hazel hydrosol, or a decoction of cold green tea.
2.) Apply liberally to the skin in circular, massaging motions (always massage, never scrub up and down!) and leave for a few moments before washing off. If liked, add 12 drops of preservative to keep liquid scrub fresh.

Sample Recipe: Jojoba Peeling Cream

A peeling cream is a more luxurious alternative to a basic scrub, and contains more ingredients that will be directly absorbed by the skin. To use, massage into the skin as part of your facial, and remember to wash off any residue.

Ingredients:
2g Shea or Cocoa Butter
3ml Macadamia Nut Oil
5ml Almond Oil
2ml Borage Oil
3ml Avocado Oil
2g Cetyl Alcohol
2.5g VE Emulsifierr
4.5g MF Emulsifier
70ml distilled or mineral water
2ml Glycerine
1g Vitamin E
5ml Jojoba grains (substitute Cupuacu if preferred, for a luxurious, slightly chocolate-scented scrub!)
OPTIONAL: 12 drops Preservative
OPTIONAL: 3-6 drops jasmine essential oil
OPTIONAL: 3-6 drops patchouli essential oil

Method:
1.) Place the shea or cocoa butter, the macadamia oil, almond oil, borage oil, avocado oil, the VE Emulsifier and the cetyl alcohol in a double boiler or in a bowl over a pan of simmering water. Heat gently until the ingredients have all melted (at about 75 degrees Centigrade).
2.) Meanwhile, heat the MF Emulsifier, the glycerin and the water to the same temperature. You will find that the cream mixes much better if all the ingredients in these early stages are around the same heat.
3.) Remove everything from the heat. Add the melted fats to the liquids (not the other way around!), pouring slowly in a steady stream, while beating the mixture constantly. A handheld electric mixer is best for this.
4.) Keeping the mixture warm (i.e. leaving the bowl over the hot water, but making sure the heat's off), continue to whisk for a good 5 minutes. The goal is to make sure the ingredients are all well incorporated and the texture is becoming thick, shiny and smooth, but not to introduce air into the cream.
5.) Allow the cream to cool to about 40 degrees Centigrade, but continue stirring or whisking. This should take about another five minutes. Then begin to add the extra ingredients, starting with the most viscous - the vitamin E. Add preservative, if using. Add the jojoba grains (which must not be heated over 60 degrees Centigrade) last, a little at a time until you reach the desired consistency. Use a little under or over 5ml if preferred, but add less than you think you need to start with!
6.) Lastly, add the essential oils at about 25 degrees Centigrade.