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| Method for Skin Creams |
| Skin creams are an emulsion of oils, fats and waxes with water. There are three stages to making creams: blending the fats, blending the liquids, and then mixing them together and adding any extra ingredients (such as essential oils or preservatives). The only equipment you will need are saucepans and mixing bowls, measuring spoons, a measuring jug, spatulas and a whisk (a handheld electric mixer is a great idea). If you have a culinary thermometer, this is also useful, and special cosmetic thermometers are available to help you keep tabs on the heat of your mixture. [Not essential, but different ingredients have different melting points, and some should not be heated to high temperatures.] You can use your normal kitchen utensils, provided they are well washed (preferably in a dishwasher) before being used for food again, though if you are going to make creams often, it's worth investing in a separate set of pans, bowls etc. Stainless steel or - even better - enamel pans (or a double boiler) are good choices, but avoid non-stick, aluminium or copper, which may react with some ingredients. You will also need sterilised pots or jars to put your creams into. You can buy these specially, in glass or recyclable plastic, or you can beg extra old cosmetic jars from friends and family. Wash jars first in hot soapy water, then rinse and place in a warm oven for about half an hour. Always leave creams to cool thoroughly before putting on the lids. Quantities are given for all recipes, and I have tried to provide quantities for single pots and bulk recipes. When preserved, the shelf life of most creams is up to two years if kept in cool, dry conditions away from direct heat and sunlight. Unpreserved creams with water-based ingredients will go mouldy in as little as a few weeks, which can present a challenge. You can extend the shelf life of unpreserved creams by keeping them in the fridge, or using air-tight dispenser pumps, but these are not failsafe methods. Additionally, naturally derived preservatives are less effective in the long term than chemical preservatives, so remember to choose the preservation solution most appropriate for you. |
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| Sample Recipe: Rich Cream for Dry Skin Makes one 100ml pot of cream This recipe uses the naturally-derived VE and MF Emulsifiers available from Aromantic, which I have had excellent results with. Other emulsifiers are available, so you may choose to use a different type. Emulsifying wax (also known as Lanette wax) is a common choice, made from stearyl alcohol, but be aware that some brands can also contain Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLS), which is considered potentially harmful to the skin and hair, and may form carcinogenic nitrates in the body. Ingredients: 2g Shea or Cocoa Butter 3ml Macadamia Nut Oil 5ml Almond Oil 2ml Borage Oil 3ml Avocado Oil 2g Cetyl Alcohol 2.5g VE Emulsifierr 4.5g MF Emulsifier 70ml distilled or mineral water 2ml Glycerine 1g Vitamin E OPTIONAL: 12 drops Preservative OPTIONAL: 3-6 drops jasmine essential oil OPTIONAL: 3-6 drops patchouli essential oil Method 1.) Begin by placing the shea or cocoa butter, the macadamia oil, almond oil, borage oil, avocado oil, the VE Emulsifier and the cetyl alcohol (usually in the form of waxy, white pellets) either in a double boiler or in a bowl over a pan of simmering water. Heat gently until the ingredients have all melted (at about 75 degrees Centigrade). 2.) Meanwhile, in another saucepan, heat the MF Emulsifier, the glycerin and the water to the same temperature. You will find that the cream mixes much better if all the ingredients in these early stages are around the same heat. 3.) Remove all your pans from the heat. Add the melted fats to the liquids (not the other way around!), pouring slowly in a steady stream, while beating the mixture constantly. A handheld electric mixer is best for this. 4.) Keeping the mixture warm (i.e. leaving the bowl over the hot water, but making sure the heat's off), continue to whisk for a good 5 minutes. The goal is to make sure the ingredients are all well incorporated and the texture is becoming thick, shiny and smooth, but not to introduce air into the cream. 5.) Allow the cream to cool to about 40 degrees Centigrade, but continue stirring or whisking. This should take about another five minutes. Then begin to add the extra ingredients, starting with the most viscous - the vitamin E. Add preservative, if using. 6.) It is better, if using essential oils, to add them once the cream had cooled to just over room temperature (about 25 degrees Centigrade), as they will start to evaporate at higher temperatures. You can often vary suggested blends of essential oils a little to create a pleasing scent, or omit them if you prefer. 7.) Pour or spoon your cream into jar(s) and label. Leave to cool thoroughly before putting on the lid, and enjoy! |
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