Antico, Stari trg 27, 01/426 56 28

Painted ceilings, frosted lights, framed mirrors and dark wood trimmings set the tone for this elegant Old Town cafe. Maybe not the most hip and happening place down in those parts, but a nice, laid-back setting for a good cup of Illy coffee, or a glass of one of the many fine Slovenian wines they offer.

Cafe Arte, Slovenska 34

Location-wise, this cafe is about as downtown as they come. Just around the corner from its mothership, Best Western's Hotel Slon, it spreads out over two floors full of cinema memorabilia, with plenteous windows for gazing down upon one of the city's busiest pedestrian zones. The ambience is elegant, yet prices are lower than you'd expect.

Cafe Galerija, Mestni trg 5

The Municipal Gallery's resident cafe is part of a new surge in nightlife on once-sleepy Mestni trg. Candles light the way to a would-be pasha's den, with imitation Ottoman furnishings, gauze curtains and ample couches. However "exotic" the setting, the trendy young crowd here poses, tipples, ogles and guffaws just like in any other bar. Prices above-average, staff self-enamored.

Cafe Union, Nazorjeva 2, 01/425 41 33

A spacious, tastefully-done cafe, elegant yet relaxed – nothing less or else would really suit a fine old hotel like the Union. Drawing a slightly older clientele, this is a place where conference delegates and artsy types mingle, but with prices even a nobody can afford. Formerly Cafe Theatre, the largest of the three big rooms here still occasionally serves as a music and theater space.

Drama, Erjavčeva 1

The Slovenian National Drama Theater's in-house bar doesn't make too dramatic an impression. Fairly bright and spacious for a basement, it tends to be a quiet place, usually getting crowded only before or after the show. Rotating exhibitions of local art dot the walls; otherwise there's not much decor to speak of. Open pretty late.

Galerija Dvorni trg, Dvorni trg 2

Housed in a small exhibition space halfway between Zvezda Park and the river, this cafe is the gallery's most popular adornment. The bright, art-filled interior is a fine place to stimulate your senses, or just sit back and let passersby take your coffee ritual for a happening. Caution: closes early in the evening.

Gaudi, Nazorjeva 10, 01/426 56 29

In a town where Plečnik rules the roost, this downtown cafe's fanciful decor reminds you there's more than one architect in the world. But coffee's the main item on the agenda here, with a vast array of specialties to try, including fresh takes on ice coffee and frappe. You can even buy some beans to take with you. Maybe a good idea: seating here is limited.

Marilyn, Miklošičeva 28, 01/433 03 41

Marilyn started her career as the resident cafe at Ljubljana's wonderful art-house cinema, the Slovenska Kinoteka, and still works hard before, during and after evening screenings. But these days she also attracts a large following of her own, made up of people who appreciate friendly, brisk service, reasonable prices, thick smoke and vibrant atmosphere.

Metropol, Kersnikova 6

Formerly a popular nightspot, Metropol has quieted down and reopened as a daytime cafe for Kersnikova Street alternative culture institutions like Kapelica Gallery, center Kiberpipa and club K4. So the sharp lines, chrome trim, plasticated surfaces and art-packed walls of this large, low-lit space should come as no surprise. The bar is basically drinks-only, with prices and selection as per usual.

Pilon, Prešernova 1

Just a few blocks beyond the busiest part of town, Pilon seems ripe for discovery. The sense of style here is emphatic even by local standards (e.g. the front door doubles as a pop art panel). This bright, spacious, high-ceilinged cafe somehow manages to delight all the senses at once. With plenty of fat art and fashion magazines lying around, it also makes a fine place to sit and read.

EATS AND SWEETS

Pixi, Mestni trg 17

A modest ice cream parlor and sweet shop, Pixi (formerly Pingvin 8) is far less trendy and a good deal cheaper than almost any other place in its swanky neighborhood. The name change seems to have left the homely plasticated interior here basically untouched. The desserts and homemade sladoled, always big favorites, look the same as before, too.

Pri Vodnjaku, Stari trg 30

Though it houses perhaps the loveliest of all the "antique" cafe interiors in Old Town, this little place often gets passed by. And this despite a prime location right where Stari and Gornji trg meet, near the old Hercules fountain (hence the name). Definitely worth a visit for its excellent tea and desserts, olde-apothecary-shop ambience, creaky furniture and pleasant service.

Tomato, Šubičeva 2

You may have tried Tomato's tasty sandwiches in any number of Ljubljana cafes and bars. But there's only one official all-Tomato cafe/diner here. Located right downtown, its menu offers omelets, salads, grill specialties and, of course, sandwiches to eat on the spot or take away. The nice service and snazzy post-mod, pop-art interior speak in favor of the former option.

Tramvaj Ekspres, Trg MDB 10

The last of Ljubljana's shiny red trams stopped running sometime back in the late 1950s. But one of them is still on the streets, albeit no longer rattling along and clanging its bell, the better to concentrate on serving up cheap pizzas and a variety of beverages. Students and nostalgia buffs are among the most frequent passengers.

Zlata Ribica, Cankarjevo nabrežje 5, 01/241 06 90

The first riverside establishment you'll meet in Old Town, Zlata Ribica has finally cashed in on its prestigious location after long years as one of the proud few pre-capitalist relics on the local bar scene. The interior's been refurbished, the windows frosted, and they've added an extensive menu of Slovenian and Italian fare. Pleasant outdoor seating in warmer weather, both alongside the river and in a small, shady square.

Zvezda, Wolfova 14

Located in the northeast corner of the popular city park of same (nick)name, Zvezda is both a relatively trendy cafe and a particularly good cake shop. All of the pastries and ice cream are made in house. Its several rooms of varying decor and size add up to an extended yet intimate lounging space, perfect for a morning caffeine fix or a sweeter afternoon.

Ex-Kaktus, Rožna 3, no phone

There's still some uncertainty about the official name of this well-hidden Old Town bar. To find it, you should ask somebody where Kaktus used to be, or just head up Gornji trg and turn right when you see the levitating chainsaw. The place is worth the slight momentary focus you'll need to find it: a cool red & mahogany lounge with Carlsberg and Laško on tap, good music and a relaxed vibe.

Kafeterija, Gallusovo nabrežje 27

The only riverside cafe in that quieter stretch of Old Town below the Cobbler's Bridge, Kafeterija's workaday name is a funny one for this fluorescent green, flower-pattern room that seems more like an art gallery. And the young hipsters who frequent it probably don't mind being taken for art objects, either.

Kuriln'ca, Mestni trg 18

Last in the mighty trio of trendy cafes on the upper-right riverbank, Kuriln'ca certainly wins the prize for best interior of the three, though you hardly see it for the parasols at least six months of the year. Lateral lighting, exposed pipes, a bold silver and yellow color scheme, and a high, arched ceiling help make the most of the bar's small floor space. Decent service, prices and music.

Makalonca, Hribarjevo nabrežje (below the footbridge)

Situated not just within sight of the Ljubljanica but right down at the water's edge, Makalonca is a riverside cafe unlike any other. Pleasant enough by day, at night the secluded booth seating, candlelight and water-level views of Old Town and Castle make for quite the magical atmosphere, even with all that techno throbbing underneath (occasional live DJs).

Minimal, Mestni trg 4

When they say Minimal here, they mean it: a sheer white interior with white upholstery, white-painted metal tables, and soft white light. But Minimal's occasional exhibitions and concerts (performers have included Scanner) and the fashion-conscious hipsters who gather here add a bit of color. Prices are average for this now-trendy part of town, but the designer drinks list is worth perusing, if only on aesthetic grounds. Now featuring sushi on Wednesday nights.

Ragamuffin, Krojaška 4

Just around the corner from some of Ljubljana's flashiest bars, Raggamuffin has a more relaxed atmosphere, a less predatory clientele and, most important, a better soundtrack than any of them. Reggae and other Caribbean sounds play almost non-stop, while photos of Jamaican music stars grace the walls. Otherwise the drinks and prices here are pretty much the same as anywhere else.

For other, "decaf" Internet options, check our guide to Getting Online in Ljubljana

Cyber Cafe, Slovenska 10

A dim, plain little bar on Ljubljana's main drag, offering shelter from traffic plus one of the rare public Internet points in town. Four computers have now been crammed into the back room by the door. Rates are 200 SIT for 15 minutes online, 400 for half an hour, 600 for a full hour. Often crowded with surfing students, but daily drink specials help ease the wait.

Čerin, Trubarjeva 52, 01/232 09 90

Pretty much the last outpost in a long stretch of cafes and bars along Trubarjeva, Čerin is a standout for great coffee and tea, decent toasted sandwiches, cheerful service – and Internet. In fact, this is surely the best of the city's woefully few outlets for surfing or e-mailing, with good, reliable connections, nice LCD monitors and a bright, clean working environment.

Gostilna Nobile, Zarnikova 3

Cheerful neighborhood bar and eatery, a short walk east of the town center. Italian-style dishes and all the usual drinks at reasonable prices, plus two DSL-connected computers available for no charge. Whether you feel like doing your e-mail next to the lavatory, however, is your call.

Čarli, Petkoškovo nabrežje 21

When you've tired of all of Ljubljana's hip, style-conscious cafes and bars, Čarli takes you back to the source – not that anyone drinks mineral water here, of course. Decor is minimal, chairs are scarce, huddled groups of drinkers just stand around and drink. For hours and hours. The sign says they're open till 3am, though sometimes that's just the beginning.

Druga Pomoč, Šmartinska 3, 01/431 32 77, 6am to 3am daily

This friendly little bar just east of the city center dispenses "second aid" no less than 21 hours a day. Located on the way to or from some of Ljubljana's favorite nightclubs, a quick stop-off here often turns into a longer commitment. The interior's minimal and metallic, while the backyard patio is tranquil and spacious. In-house DJs almost every night, stellar service at all times.

Flex, Nazorjeva 12, 8am to 4am daily

Identifiable only by a blue Ballantine's sign, Flex is a notorious downtown last-drink, last-chance-for-romance option. Its basement confines can seem a little claustrophobic on weekend nights, the atmosphere impenetrably smokey and charged with aggressive animal energy. During the day, though, the place is quite tame.

Hombre, Gerbičeva 61, 01/429 26 20, 7 pm to 5 am

South-of-center late-night dive, its vaguely Latin American theme obscured by years of smoke and wear and tear. Not that anyone notices or cares, for Hombre is basically a place where people (mostly male) repair at that hour when there's no hope left but crash-landing into the next morning.

Pod Skalco, Gosposka 19

Just around the bend from the city's leading outdoor music venue, Pod Skalco stands out mainly for two things: late hours (though now curtailed from four to three a.m.) and double-take toilet seats. Otherwise its rubbed-down rustic interior is nothing special. But Pod Skalco's low-key yet lively atmosphere makes it worth stopping by even before all the other bars have closed.

Brewery Pub, Šubičeva 1

Neither a micro-brewery nor a proper pub, Brewery is a leading local purveyor of the same Friday night house-and-hops-fuelled mayhem you find in bars all over Europe. And the kids love it, covering every square inch of the drab interior, even spilling onto the concrete plaza in front of Maximarket, where there's seating in summertime.

Companeros, Slovenska 51, 01/434 41 47

Head down the dim alleyway below the big sign on Slovenska to find this mildly Mexican-flavored haunt of students and other youth, to whom it happily caters with popular weekend party nights (Thursday through Saturday). Though hard to make out in the low light, the decor seems to aim at some sort of cantina ambience.

Kra Kra, Gosposvetska 2, 01/431 90 99

A cavernous, dingy underground bar notorious for riotous student merrymaking. The light is neon, the air is stale, and the bar furnishings have stood up to years of intensive bombardment. This is a place for no-holds-barred partying, for drinking yourself as blind as love. It is NOT the place for a nice quiet drink. You have been warned. Occasional DJs or live music.

Mosquito, Prule 10

Located on a greenish outcrop of land near where the Ljubljanica meets the Gruber Canal, Mosquito (also called Špica) looks and feels like the final frontier. And it really is no more than a rickety hovel pumping out loud, hard techno, as if oblivious to the gentle shoreline scenery. Once a kind of pot-smokers' speakeasy, nowadays only fools (and/or undercover cops) seek stimulation here.

Gajo Jazz Club, Beethovnova 8, 01/425 32 06

A classy, laid-back downtown bar featuring mainly traditional – some would even say conservative – jazz. Almost every seat in the house is a good one when there's a live act on. When there's not, Gajo's low-volume soundtrack and intimate ambience make it a swell place for a chat or a solitary drink.

Geonavtik, Kongresni trg 1

Part of a shop that sells travel guides and maps, the decor of this very central cafe explores the given terrain further. Besides staying open long hours to provide refreshment to weary wayfarers, Geonavtik also hosts occasional travel lectures and live jazz acts: check the chalkboard out front for details.

Orto Bar, Grablovičeva 1, 01/232 16 74

An archetypal red velvet lounge dispensing hard liquor and heavy tunes, Orto is one of Ljubljana's leading live music venues, with punk, blues and "trash" acts appearing weekly. Bands perform in the upstairs room, which usually gets packed and smokey to the point of asphyxiation. The spectacle of ceaselessly spinning turbine fans in the downstairs walls is likewise not for the faint-hearted.

Sax Pub, Eipprova 7

Housed in a spray-painted peasant-style house on the Trnovo waterfront, this is one of the few bars in town that's louder outside than in. Also one of the rare places where you can catch live jazz acts, usually on Thursday evenings. Even on nights when they're merely drawing from their fine CD collection, this is a cool, low-key hangout that seems miles from the tourist trail.

Abecedarium Cafe, Ribji trg 2, tel: 01/426-95-14

The author of the first Slovene book, Primož Trubar, lived here in the 16th century. You'll easily remember the name of the book - Abecedarium. The cafe is open from 7am for anyone who wants to enjoy a fast breakfast, or just a quick morning coffee. The food is served till 4pm, with cocktails, sweets, and alcoholic as well as nonalcoholic drinks available surprisingly till 1 am daily.

Alamut, Poljanska 7, open from 7am till 10pm, closed on Sundays

This place is not a cafe or a bar, it’s too small for a restaurant and too comfortable for a snack bar... so it's known simply as Oriental House. Besides various teas and coffees, the drinks won’t make you remember the place, but the daily menus with different kinds of eastern specialties such as falafel, kebab and salads will convince you to come again. In the near future they are also planning to add a cultural program.

Julija, Stari trg 9, 01/425 64 63

Ever faithful to her Romeo just over the way, Julija also went in for some rejuvenation during 2001. Yet the bright, elegant new interior here is more in keeping with the "spirit" of Old Town. The former front-room sandwich counter has been replaced by a massive wooden bar amplified by two Baroque mirrors. Julija's new food menu, vaguely Mediterranean in flavor, provides ample compensation, and adds a pleasant twist to the cafe routine.

Pixi, Mestni trg 17, tel. 01/426-84-60

An ice cream parlor and sweet shop, Pixi (formerly Pingvin 8, formerly ???, originally Zmajčkov butik) has yet another new image. The new clean and simple interior offers a variety of classic deserts, good coffees and the usual variety of sladoled. It’s casual, not too trendy, and a great hangout for nonsmokers in the winter time. They also accept orders for cakes on those occasions when you have a reason to blow candles.

Salon, Trubarjeva 23, 01/433 20 06

Evidently tired of catering to high school kids, the TrueBar crew decided to polish up their image while staying trendy. The result: an interior swathed in velvet and faux-leopard, with big lounge chairs and petite ottomans parked around low tables, all encased in a gilded facade whose two big windows are made more for looking in than out. It may seem a little cold and bare, but Salon has a certain snob appeal that's already drawing a crowd.

Triglav, Mala ulica 5, 01/234 52 29

Triglav has changed almost overnight from an obscure pizzeria into a stylish bar&grill. Open more or less round the clock (till 4am most nights) it offers a big selection of drinks, including cocktails and an impressive array of wines domestic and foreign, plus a small food menu featuring grilled entrees and curries. Below the spacious upstairs area, with its standard post-mod decor, there's also a dance club - check the chalkboard for info on DJs and live music.

Uršula, Slovenska 25, 01/4268501

As Lounge (a.k.a Rose & Crown Pub), Knafljev prehod 5a, 01/425 88 22

Don't be fooled by its secluded setting and proximity to a swanky restaurant: As ("Ace") is one of the city's major meatmarkets, drawing droves of young, rowdy, primal-instinct types on weekend nights. Standard pseudo-English pub decor, scarcely visible for the welter of bodies. More variety of food and drink than in most bars, but higher prices too.

Baileys Pub, Kolodvorska 7

Two-level downtown pub with sturdy, simple decor. Popular with both gruff TV types (upstairs) and idle students (downstairs). In warmer weather, the sidewalk patio affords fine views of congested traffic and the occasional fender-bender. Whatever the season or seating arrangement, service and prices are always agreeable.

Cutty Sark, Knafjlev prehod 1

Serving Union, Kilkenny, Guinness, Heineken and cider on tap, this cheerful, chockfull downtown pub is still a big favorite with locals, expats and tourists alike. The bar's as well stocked as any you'll find in these parts, and the half a dozen people running around behind it provide remarkably prompt and smiling service. Though the nautical theme is underplayed, sardine-can comparisons are inevitable on weekends.

Guinness Pub, Gosposka 3

Despite the corporate name and highly orthodox English-style pub interior, Guinness has a few things going for it. Its extensive bottled beers list wanders as far afield as Belgium, the location is right at the crossroads of downtown and the riverside, and it has a beautiful, spacious courtyard for sitting out on starry summer nights.

Holidays Pub, Slovenska 36

Maybe the oldest "real English" pub in Ljubljana, Holidays looks like it hasn't changed a bit over the years. Its gewgaw-cluttered, rubbed-down upstairs barroom, cozy or cramped depending on your sensibilities, is still a beloved haunt of beer connoisseurs and homesick expats, and safe haven from some of the worst traffic in town. More seating downstairs.

Katakombe Pub, Stari trg 19, 01/426 51 61

One of the earthier drinking establishments in Old Town, Katakombe is not nearly as "Gothic" as its name suggests. Its naked brick walls and bare wooden fittings might not please the eye, but they make it the right setting for drinking, smoking and gabbing. A fairly unpretentious young crowd fills the place most nights.

Kratochwill, Kolodvorska 14, 01/433 31 14

Ljubljana's one and only micro-brewery has concocted a fine Bohemian-style pale lager, as well as superb wheat and dark varieties. And whereas meals in Czech beer halls tend to be forgettable at best, the menu at Kratochwill offers lots of tasty, well-prepared meat, pasta and veggie options, plus salads and desserts. Open every day till midnight, often for a mere handful of customers.

Levstik, Levstikov trg 9, 01/425 38 26

Keep straight past the fountain on Stari trg (avoiding the upturn to Gornji trg) and you'll find this pleasant, low-key pivnica. Though in fact no local beers are available here (it's Gösser on tap), the plain decor, pokerfaced service and unpretentious clientele are everything you want in a pub. Ample outdoor seating in warmer weather.

Patrick's Irish Pub, Prečna 6

Boasting Slovenia's only draught Murphy's (550 SIT a pint), and pouring Harp, Beamish, Guinness and Kilkenny as well, Patrick's ably defends its reputation as Ljubljana's sole "real traditional" Irish pub. There's also a broad range of whiskeys, some cocktails, and a better than usual bar menu, featuring both snacks and entrees.

Tramontana Pub, Nazorjeva 8

This downtown watering-hole, located just off one of the city's main pedestrian routes, seats about fifty in a cozy, quiet, greenish, potentially sunny courtyard. Its dark, cramped, pub-like interior is a less attractive option. Tramontana has Guinness and Laško on tap, just two of many choices from a very extensive drinks list; prices are quite average. Though you might not guess it lounging here by day, this place tends to get rowdy at night.

Zlata Ladjica, Jurčičev trg 1

Located just over the Cobbler's Bridge from Stari trg, Zlata ladjica almost certainly has more outdoor seating than any other riverside bar in town. Yet it's not just quantity that's made this place popular, it's quality, too: fair prices, cheerful service, fine views of Old Town framed by Plečnik columns, and a candlelit nighttime ambience perfect for leisurely drinking and chatting. Recent renovation has left the tacky nautical-style interior miraculously intact.

Big Bang Cafe, Čopova 42

Though the name suggests a hangout for astrophysicists, this is in fact the in-house cafe at the brand new Big Bang music megastore. Take the escalator all the way to the top, brush past the classical section, and you're there. Nothing's really so special about the place in terms of menu, prices or service, but it's handy to have on a big shopping day, and the glass roof offers an unusual take on the town.

Cafe Caffe, Čopova 7

Probably the best quick caffeine fix in town, Cafe Caffe puts double emphasis on good java. Drink it on the run at slim side-counters, sip it discreetly in the little salon in back, or brave the incessant onslaught of pedestrians at a sidewalk table. Service is usually friendly, and always fast.

CN7, Cankarjevo nabrežje 7

The most remarkable thing about this small riverside cafe is how little it tries – in a neighborhood rife with flashy bars – to be remarkable at all. The simple interior can barely fit a massive ice cream counter and a few tables, but fortunately there's outdoor seating overlooking the river. Best of all are the prices - the lowest in these parts, for sure.

Exes, Miklošičeva 22

This no-frills downtown coffee bar gets all kinds: office workers, students, railway riffraff. The coffee's just fine, and cheap as it comes, but the days when Exes could boast the biggest mugs of bela kava in town are probably over. Seating opposite the bar and in the loft, though most people don't linger long here. Opening hours are modest, despite the name.

Platana Bar, Kongresni trg 7

Located right on the edge of lively Zvezda Park, this is probably the only cafe/bar anywhere near the river where the clientele's average age exceeds 30. The interior's fairly new, though by no means flashy, and the prices are affordable. So it's probably just the sight of the middle-aged regulars here that puts city youth off. Who wants to drink with their boss?

Pri Pavli, Stari trg 21, 01/425 92 75

Besides being a museum-quality specimen of socialist-era beer culture, "Pavla's Place" also boasts a prime Old Town location. The pub's menu features soups, salads, pizza, pasta, seafood and lots of schnitzel. Union and Laško beer on tap, plus other favorite drinks. The prices are old-school, the service matronly, the clientele sedentary.

Reformator, Trubarjeva 18

The main thing that distinguishes Reformator from all the other bars on Trubarjeva is its big octagonal patio umbrella, located across the street from the bar itself, a fairly non-descript little place. The clientele here likewise tends to be less image-conscious, and maybe a bit older, than elsewhere in these parts. So it's a good place for low-attitude drink and chat.

Šerbi, Kersnikova 5

Formerly known as Baboo, and before that Miriam, this latest incarnation of the basement bar space opposite K4 seems to have done little more than swap the previous screaming yellow paint job for more subdued pastel tones. The place still feels a bit claustrophobic, and there's no real atmosphere to speak of, unless you count the smell of cooking – they've added a menu featuring standard Slovenian fare.

Bar Grad, Grajska planota 1, 01/432 72 16

Though housed in the most obvious tourist target in all of Ljubljana, Bar Grad is neither outrageously expensive nor a Let's Go reading room. Its rather dull interior isn't really worth the uphill trudge, but on clear days the panoramic view is splendid. Better still is the outdoor courtyard, especially on torch-lit summer evenings.

Cafe Evropa, Gosposvetska 2

While but a mere shadow of its former self, Evropa still retains something of the elegance and ease of the grand old Central European cafe tradition. Service is a bit wooden, the decor rather dull, and prices are high, but there's really no other place like it in town. Ideal for watching the world go by (in lots of noisy cars) on an idle afternoon.

Krakovski Vogal, Krakovski nasip 12, 01/126 52 51

Just south of the center, this laid-back riverside bar captures the spirit of Krakovo, a charming "suburb" that's home to gardeners on a pension and artists on welfare. Not that you'll necessarily meet either type of person inside. But Krakovski Vogal's soft colors and easygoing atmosphere still give you some idea what this part of town is all about.

Lily Novi, Gornji trg 25, 01/126 64 40

Misgivings about the spelling of this Old Town cafe's name, or the blatant advertisement on its patio awning, shouldn't dissuade you from stepping inside and staying a while. A favorite with neighbors, students and the art set alike, the antique furnishings and soft hues here give the place a relaxed, literary salon ambience.

Miklavž, Krojaška 6