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| By GOH EE KOON Whatever the haute cuisine of the moment may be, the food of the hybrid Peranakan Chinese has never suffered in popularity. Ostensibly, the most famous of Nyonya cuisine found in the Klang Valley is the Penang version - this means plenty of lemongrass, tamarind and the like which translates into more fiery, slightly sour tastes. Less emphasis is really placed on the Nyonyas of other regions, like those in Malacca. Known for creamy curries as well as its similarities to Malay cuisine, Malaccan Nyonya food does have its following. Desa Sri Hartamas' relatively new Ketumbar is one such outlet for this group of people. Located slightly away from the hustle and bustle of the restaurants, bars and other popular nightspots in the area, the restaurant attracts the office crowd during the day and families during evenings and weekends, according to partner Vincent Yap. |
Yap, who comes from east Malaysia, is part Baba and is
planning to open a similar restaurant in the United States. "We opened here in late November and business is slowly picking up," he said. Also, Ketumbar's Nyonya dishes revolve around a few base spices. "The food at Ketumbar's is not strictly traditional. However, we have patrons from the older generation due to some of our authentic signature dishes," said Yap. With its dark wood and pale lime green walls, the place is welcoming and quiet and is ideal for both small and big groups. On the menu are a series of items, with fairly generous portions and at reasonable prices. For RM6.90 there are two pieces of otak-otak, where fat slices of fish patties are wrapped in banana leaf and grilled. There is also satay and pai-tee. |
Some may find the latter a bit of a disappointment, for it
does not follow the recipe of cooked jicama topped with chilli sauce, peanuts and onions.
This version is more like a salad and has carrots, cucumbers and more - most of them raw. Also worth checking out is Ketumbar's Nyonya Laksa, which comes in generous portions and is value for money at RM7.90. It has cockles, prawns and fishcake in a spicy coconut gravy using thick noodles. For those who prefer rice and dishes, do try the RM9.90 Papaya Titik, a seafood soup that uses papayas. If this is a new experience, it is definitely worth trying out as the sweetness of the fruit is an able balancer to the spicy and sour tastes as well. For RM15.90, there is also fish baked in foil with a spicy marinade. The drinks on the menu are fairly regular, though the barley comes with a slice of lemon and offers a fresh citrus-filled alternative. Ketumbar is open daily from 12:30pm for lunch and from 6:30pm to 10:30pm for dinner. |
Ketumbar Restaurant
& Bistro Operating Hours |
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