Wow! Its been a really long time but I've been checking track of some of the things that I've wanted to say. The reason i haven't written is because the computer with internet access at the Center was broken. When you turned on the computer you received a message that said "abort, retry, ignore, fail" it was bad....nothing worked. They took it to the store and it seems to be running better now but we'll see for how long. Before I came no one here really used the internet all that much so the programs on the computer were stable. Once they started using the internet things started going array because most of the internet is in English...websites, pop-up ad, error messages...everything. So when someone that doesn't speak English receives a pop-up or error, or request to download something they click whatever button looks good. I do the same thing in Microsoft Word here except that I pretty much know what messages are going to appear so I know what to click...they don't. Now there are a ton of programs on the desktop that were downloaded - just because LOL This is the fun part of cross cultural intergration. I don't want them to download stuff from the internet that isn't necessary and they don't know that they have. We learn :)
So right now its winter. In Arabic, "Shit-ta." Its cold, its muddy, rainy, and NOT HOT! I'm to blame because I ignored the information that I saw about the climate here before I came but I thought I was moving to the desert! The PC gave us all a "soba", a heater, a box about 2 feet high that we attach to a propane tank. There are no heating systems here (if you are really wealthy you can get them installed but my landlords downstairs are pretty well off and they don't have one) You have to sit right in front of the soba in order to get the chill out of your body, At work there can be 5 people huddled around the box trying to get warm. Its ridiculous. I'm wearing almost of the clothes that I own and since we dry our clothes in the sun, you can't really wash your clothes because they won't dry for a week. I have rigged string up to hang clothes on to rest in front of the soba but the heater really isn't big so either my clothes get the heater or I do! Also, if you put your clothes too close...they burn. I found out the hard way and now my long john's have huge holes LOL Its funny really.
The used clothing stores here are great! They get things shipped from all over the world and my friend Lindsay and I went to one that could have passed as a GAP outlet LOL They have a lot of clothes with name brands from the USA but also from other European countries. I'm not sure how it works on there side of course but things are really cheap. I doubled my wardrobe for 15 JD (approx. 21 US) I bought two hooded sweatshirts, a fleece, turtleneck, sweater, blanket (that I'm using as a rug, long johns, and nothing else....hmmm... I don't remember. But the prices were right. I also got at another time a winter coat for 4 JD! NICE!
The other thing about winter (shit-ta) here is the rain. Rain is good for Jordan...bad for Kelly. Since it only rains in the winter it is crucially necessary for the survival of the country, but since there are no sewer systems the rain and mud mix together and create puddles on the streets so you have to walk through 1-3 inches of mud water to get anywhere and since you don't clean your clothes daily (regardless of the season) it becomes messy.
My favorite thing about the winter in Jordan is sitting in front of the soba with the lights off and just thinking. When your eyes are closed It sounds like a fireplace without the crackling wood :)
Another good thing about the winter is the cochroaches seem to hibernate... I am definately NOT going to complain about that... let them sleep, don't wake the beasts!
A couple of weeks ago I had someone with limited English translate the hot topic of news, maybe you guys know but King Abdullah has removed "Crown" from Prince Hasham's title. Prince Hasham is Queen Noor's son and was in line to succeed the King. Originally when I was told this, the woman translating told me that the "Crown" title was going to King Abdullah first born son, Prince Hussein, 8 years old. But later from an American PC staffer, I found out that King Abdullah didn't name a Crown Prince, just took away the title from Prince Hasham...rumors are flying!
Christmas is difficult here. We have 11 days to go and it hasn't felt like Christmas at all. Of course I received my Christmas present from my mother 16 days ago and it remains unopened as a direct order. What a test of patience! I have never been known for my will power or patience but I'm trying it out in Jordan. I sit and look at the box thinging and wondering if maybe I just opened it a little when mom calls I can retape it and she'll never know the difference. This test of patience is coming from the girl who used to try and find all the christmas presents when she was little...and usually succeeded! But I'm trying to go good. The wierd thing is the box came directly to my village. Boxes are suppose to go to Amman where they are opened by Customs but this box didn't go through that process...I didn't even have to pay a penny on customs. God was working on my side because I didn't have to lug it on the bus :)
Which reminds me of the newest story...the post office amman story.
Last Thursday I received a text message from my friend that was going into the Amman to get a package that have come for her, saying that I had one too...she saw it. The way the system works here is that when I package comes into Amman a package slip is mailed to the local post office and you then pick it up when you go to the po and bring it to Amman. Well, lately a lot of slips haven't been appearing for people so I went directly to the post office in Amman and asked them to go through this card catalog -type thing looking for it. The man who is responsible for this really doesn't speak or read great english so I stood behind me looking for myself. Then I saw there was a packing slip from my sister! I got all excited but asked why the slip never got to me...and of course he did what any normal person would do, he showed me the date of arrival and it was the day before...oops...my fault :) I go to the back room to pick up the box and the doors are closed and a man comes to me and says they are closed. I whine a little (because Im told this works) "I came all the way from S----b PLEASE just give me the package, I work every day..." and the man cuts me off..."your from S----b??? I am too! " He rushes to get the key to the door, tells me to sit down and asks if I like chai (tea)... I briefly look around and think, Chai in the Amman p.o.? I've never heard of such things...and I reply with "YES" I sit we chat and of course of the first thing people ask is where you live. I told him where my house was and who I lived with and he replied with "good, they are good, are you happy?" He tells me that he lives real close to the Center I work at and the Police station which is where I walk every day to get to work and home. Things are going well, making new friends, they find my box and we take (oops...they took it so I wouldn't have to carry a heavy box) to the custom's man. He tells me I have to open it but since I'm sipping my chai my fellow village friend opens it for me. I tells them that its for Christmas so I can't look at it but who am I kidding, the box is open through no fault of my own, so I jump up and say "WOW!" which is probably not the best thing to say in front of the man who is about to charge me based on the contents. he pulls out a pair of mosturizing gloves and says "its christmas and I've seen a lot of these before, what are they?" I respond with "they make your hands soft" to which he replies "I need to know for custom reasons" and I reply with "the water and the heat and the cold ruin your hands so its for medicial purposes." And he said with a little chuckle, "I thought so" After a little going back and forth between the custom's man and my new best friend from S---b I was charged NOTHING in customs... My friend asked if I wanted to go to his house for dinner soon and I said "is it ok with your wife" (because accepting invites from men is not at all culturally appropriate). His friend replied with "he has two" (Muslims can have up to 4 according to Koran interpretation) And I asked "is it ok with both of them?" And he replies with "yes" So I agree. I don't know why, but it just came over me. So we agreed on Sunday and he would pick me up at the Center. We didn't exchange phone numbers. All day Sunday I was anxious. I didn't want to go and I had no way to cancel. I hoped he wouldn't show and I even thought about leaving work early in case he did. At about 2:45 pm a woman and child came in and asked for "Kelly." I stand out a LITTLE so they knew. We both just laughed and I left with them. We went back to their house and had lunch and talked (in Arabic). The wife, the second wife because the 1st wife lives elsewhere was awesome! Their cousin came over who spoke fluent English and told me that we would take me into Amman one day to show me around. And then we went to visit his mother...I meant 4 brothers, and 1 sister. I'm not sure of their background but the mother looked Bedowin. I'll find out with time. I had such a great time and I gave them my number and they invited to stay and sleep at their house but I politely refused saying that I like my own bed which they misinterpreted and offered their children's bed to me. At 6 pm I went home and went downstairs for my nightly ritual of playing cards and drinking coffee with Khloud and Rasha my downstairs landlords, neighbors, and friends.
I hope to write again before Christmas but if I don't get a chance... Merry christmas!
December 23, 2004
The computers at the Center are down again but this time the phone lines to the center are messed up. They can receive incoming calls but cannot make outgoing ones. so... no dial-up internet and it doesn't look like they are in any hurry to get it fixed LOL
My director let me accompany one of the staff to a 2-day computer training in Amman. Its completely in Arabic so I don't undersrand a word of the training but once we get on the computers to work with the Internet, Word, and Powerpoint, I feel right at home :) Computers have their own language, you don't need English or Arabic. Don't get me wrong, it would help but
I love it!
Christmas is two days away. The PC Director is having a party at her house for all the volunteers and staff. Tomorrow, Friday we are having a big sleepover to celebrate Christmas in this Muslim country. My mom sent me xmas lights and I put them up on my wall in the shape of a xmas tree and then hung xmas ornaments on it as well so I get to have my own xmas! :)
One of the volunteers organized a secret santa exchange so we'll do that on xmas too. I bought my person a few VCD's (movies) and a kilo (2.2 pounds) of popcorn. Cute huh? Karen (my sister) gave me the idea last week on the phone.
I started my tutoring sessions one week ago. We've arranged for once a week for 1 hour for right now. She gives me homework and I've asked her to give me 15-20 new words a week. I'm still having a difficult time picking up the language because whereever I go, everyone wants to practice their English. My director even does it! When I do try and speak arabic, she asks me to speak in English if she doesn't understand what I'm trying to say. My director is not the "ideal" PC counterpart.
I was trying to feel "normal" again so I put together some spreadsheets LOL I was going to do them on Excel but then realized, "why do something in 6 minutes when I can take 6 hours to do it." I was taught not to take the shortcut all the time and not to rush through things so I figured that for those reasons as well as my ample amount of free time at work, I might as well make it a creative project. So I did it with old fashioned pen and paper - they are cute!
I'm getting even better with transportation in Amman! I went into the city a few days ago with the same girl that I'm attending the computer training with and we found a "service" which is something of a cross between a taxi and a bus. Physically its a regular 4-door sedan like a taxi but it has a specific route and fixed rate...like a bus. Its a ton faster than a bus and a ton cheaper than a taxi. Its really an ideal way to travel the city if you can figure them out. So we found one at a circle close to where I go a lot that takes you directly to the main bus station that I need to get to in order to catch a bus back to my village. I hate to say it because it seems so trivial, but it was a really happy day :)
The last time I wrote about the post office man. Well, his counsin, who is my age, called me to invite me to an engagement party in Amman on xmas eve. Unfortuantely I have plans but were going to hang out after the New Year. She actually called me last week too but I was on a bus to Irbid to sleep over my friends house. I just hope I'm free the next time! :)
A few days ago I went online and found out through www.classmates.com that my 10 year high school reunion is in the works for November 2005. I knew that this was going to happen while I was away, but I feel so old now! LOL
Last week I had an interesting conversation at work with 2 girls - R & F about the pros and cons of being in Jordan. Its really hard to be honest and sometimes it would definately not be in my best interests to do so, so when I come up with answers I want them to be honest but I can't always give the things that pop into my head initially. With that said, I came up with the following things....I said that I don't like being passed by on the bus because there are no seats for women, which of course is also something that I like about Jordan - woman being respected and seen as too good to stand on a moving bus. I told them that I don't like that Arabs hate American and I told them that when I say hello to women I'm still ignored. Although them sympathized with me they said that they ignore me because they don't trust me because I am American and that Arabs hate American because of US policy on the Palestineans. They also think that all Americans think all Arabs are terrorists. Regardless of what I say about it, its what they have been taught to believe...mostly through the media I can gather. Atleast they are honest! LOL The things that I liked most about Jordan is their sense of family and community as well as their committment to religion. I'm not sure if I ever wrote about women and education. I don't think this is all that relevant in the large cities but in the villages and small cities I've found that college-educationed women are not getting married. I'm sure there is more to it but I think the men are intimidated by them because university frees their mind and educates them to some of the inequalities. I'm curious to see how this plays out in the future. I wonder if this is going to create a mini crisis for finding men.
We also talked a little bit about the ancestories. (We have really good conversations when the director is away...)
F. is Palestinean but her tribe (families sharing the same lineage) can also be found in Iraq but when Saddam Hussein was in power he eliminated 1/2 of their tribe for supporting a new regime coming to power. A. is a (approximately) 70 year old Palestinean who thinks her family is originally from Saudi Arabia. She is completely illiterate but when a Muslim prays he/she is required to read certain passages from the Koran and so was taught to read those passages. Her daughter reads the Koran to her and she repeats it when they pray together. She was married when she was 13. Her youngest child is 20....you do the math.
Funny observation: Buses, especially on Thursdays after work, is as close to a cattle call as one can get. Its a true Darwinism experience where only the strong and the fast and the pushy survive. People actually jump through the bus windows to ensure a seat, and the bus is attacked before it even has a chance to empty its previous passengers. Sometimes a dignified line is created and when one bus comes to pick up new passengers, the persons in the front of the line signle-file themselves into the bus. However, as the last few buses of the day come and go the people drop their digified place in line and mad rush the buses in fear of being deserted in Amman for the weekend. It would be interesting to go to the bus station in Amman with a camera on a Thursday just for pictures. Now that I can get there for $0.33, it might be worth it! :)
You'll only hear a PC volunteer say... "Why did you buy me a new laptop? I didn't want a NEW one....Take the new one and give me your old one!" I overheard my friend Ami say this to her brother last weekend.
Two days ago, Khloud made chestnuts on a open cass LOL A cass is like the soba in that it is a heater but instead of a propane tank it is feuled by gasoline. It smells gross but I think it may be a little cheaper...not sure, I don't have one and I hope that I never do. Did you know that chestnuts take exactly like potatoes...how does that work?
I have another interesting political discussion with one of the girls at work but I'll save that for after the new year. Hearing what people think and believe is very fascinating and makes this whole experience worth it that much more :)
OK ya'll. This is most likely my last words before Christmas so I hope you all have a good one and I hope I can write again before the New Year :)