he gamurra was worn over a white linen or cotton camicia or chemise. The camicia fabric showed or was pulled through the openings at the lower arm or at the armhole. Also worn with the gamurra were calzeviii, or stockings made of silk, wool, or sometimes linen. They came to the knee, then were folded down over garters. A pair of white linen socks, calcetto , were worn under the calze to protect the more expensive fabric from body oils and dirt. These undergarments were always made from either white linen or cotton, which was more easily laundered and whitened and certainly more easily replaced when worn.
  Petticoats could be worn under the skirt to give added fullness (Figure 7). In some paintings, the sitter is wearing a very sheer partlet tucked into the dress. This fazzolettox or covercierexi was so sheer that at first glance it could be easily missed (Figures 5 and 6). The hem was sometimes finished with beads or fine trim. They were also sometimes closed with small pins or buttons. These neck coverings were a product of sumptuary laws that, in 1464 ordered that dress necklines be no more than 3.3 cm or about 1.25 inches from the base of the neckxii. This explains the sudden appearance of this accessory in the later half of the Quattrocento
Figure 7: note figure on the far left. Shows sleeve open under the arm. She also wears a green petticoat visible under the blue gamurra. The figure in blue on the right shows typical construction with tied-on two-piece sleeves, and a poste draped artfully about her neck.    
 

 

 
 
Hosted by www.Geocities.ws

1