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he
gamurra was worn over a white linen or cotton camicia or chemise.
The camicia fabric showed or was pulled through the openings at the
lower arm or at the armhole. Also worn with the gamurra were calzeviii,
or stockings made of silk, wool, or sometimes linen. They came to
the knee, then were folded down over garters. A pair of white linen
socks, calcetto , were worn under the calze to protect the more expensive
fabric from body oils and dirt. These undergarments were always made
from either white linen or cotton, which was more easily laundered
and whitened and certainly more easily replaced when worn. |
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Petticoats
could be worn under the skirt to give added fullness (Figure 7). In
some paintings, the sitter is wearing a very sheer partlet tucked
into the dress. This fazzolettox or covercierexi
was so sheer that at first glance it could be easily missed (Figures
5 and 6). The hem was sometimes finished with beads or fine trim.
They were also sometimes closed with small pins or buttons. These
neck coverings were a product of sumptuary laws that, in 1464 ordered
that dress necklines be no more than 3.3 cm or about 1.25 inches from
the base of the neckxii. This explains the sudden appearance
of this accessory in the later half of the Quattrocento
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Figure
7: note figure on the far left. Shows sleeve open under the arm. She
also wears a green petticoat visible under the blue gamurra. The figure
in blue on the right shows typical construction with tied-on two-piece
sleeves, and a poste draped artfully about her neck. |
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