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Balad
is covered in greater detail in the section on Old
Jeddah but suffice to say
it is primarily the major collection of traditional souqs - with new
developments on the periphery it truly offers the best of both worlds.
To go on a weekday morning or on a Thursday night is to see two
different places entirely. Although
people do shop on a Thursday evening, it is better to just soak up the
atmosphere - the sights, sounds and smells combine magically to transform you
to a time that spans thousands of years.
Mind-boggling if you think about it too hard so perhaps best not to -
just inhale and enjoy. Gabel/Qabil Street
is identifiable as a wide pedestrianised thoroughfare that goes off to the
left as you drive through the one-way system around the old city, directly
opposite the Mahmal Centre.
Before you dive straight into exploration, stop at the Cafeteria
Al Roshan for a refreshing fruit cocktail and delicious shiwarma to get
you in the mood! Carry on up
Gabel Street, passing the Gold Souq on your left and through a covered section
that seems to sell everything - shoes, fridges, watches, televisions, clothes,
food ….! At the top of Gabel
Street is the underpass to the Alawi
Souq where you walk further back in time with every step.
If you turn right and head south you will come to one of the two
restored gates to the Old City - Bab
Sherif, surrounded by carpet shops. East
and up the hill from here takes you to Bab Makkah Souq, famous for spices and silks.
If at any point you feel unsure of your location either walk uphill and
you will eventually find yourself at …. (what's at the top!) or ask any
passerby. They might not speak
your native language but are friendly, will understand you are lost and gladly
point you back to civilisation - I'm speaking from experience. There is a surprising amount
of car parking available in Balad - an underground car park that is signposted
on your left just as you are parallel with the Corniche
Commercial Centre, a multi-storey mall that is linked to the Mahmal
Centre and an open air car park outside the Corniche
Commercial Centre. Street
parking is limited to the side streets but be warned - it is very easy to
forget where you put it, especially on a first visit! There are other newer souqs
dotted around the city that still engage a frisson of excitement at the
possibility of finding something truly spectacular! The Afghan Souq (S7) just off Sitteen Street near Al Hindiweyah, is
renowned for a fantastic choice of reasonably priced carpets.
It is one narrow road of shops, selling new and old rugs.
There are several that have genuine, good quality old Turkoman rugs and
other tribal rugs from Afghanistan and Pakistan as well as small woven items
such as bags, rucksacks, cushion covers etc. Bawadi
Souq
(K4), north of the Satellite roundabout on Prince Fahd (Sitteen) Street is a
colourful souq selling clothes, luggage, perfume and some great outfits for
the children's dressing up box! Haraj
Souq
(V7) translates literally to Junk Souq and
it is not a modest description! It
is where the contents of misloaded or damaged containers from the port end up
to find a buyer at any price. You
have to be prepared to really hunt though to get a bargain but that is part of
the fun! Find it on the South
Corniche, south of the Petromin Refinery. The Old Airport Souq on King
Khaled Street (R4) - my favourite! No
prizes for the source of the name but the collection of former airline and
travel services offices have become overgrown with what can only be described
as 'stuff', a secret garden that relinquishes treasures with every turn ….
and a certain amount of goodies of distinctly dubious origin it has to be
said! None of the shops
specialises in any one thing and the phrase 'one man's junk is another man's
treasure' springs to mind, but for mementos of your time in Jeddah this is the
place to come. There is furniture
of varying ages - some old, some made to look old, some new and proud of it -
for all uses. Some argue that a lot of it is imported but that too makes it
authentically part of Jeddah's history as a trading post.
There are old books, prints and photographs, rugs old and new, table
linen, coffee pots, water carriers, tribal yashmaks, ancient trunks,
beautifully made rosewood furniture from Pakistan and India, camel stools,
tribal daggers and swords either framed or loose, things whose use has long
since been forgotten but still fascinating by their very existence. The shop at the far left
of the parade as you face it, Abdullah
BR Zahrani Est, is particularly interesting.
It has wooden bins just inside the door full of old coins, ancient
pistols and daggers while antiquated telephones sit next to unusually shaped
glass bon-bon dishes on the shelves behind.
A bizarre pile of wind-up gramophone bases wobbles gently on a crate in
the breeze of the fan, while their respective horns lie on the floor nearby. Not far above your head hang fantastic chandeliers.
Walk through and the shop opens out with a Chinese enamel and glass
display case on the left and some more common steel and glass cases on the
right. Follow these to the end
and on your right will be a very narrow door that looks as if it might lead
somewhere you'd rather not go. Trust
me - through the Narnianesque door is a partly covered warehouse full to the
brim with coffee tables made from old doors and twisted metalwork, cupboards
of all sizes and shapes, chairs, desks, screens and all sorts of weird and
wonderful things that defy definition! This is one shop where the bargaining process does not
seem to work so well - experience has shown a very swift fall in price of
about 20% and then nothing further, even over a period of several visits.
Another shop similar to this but not as large can be found round the
corner at the far right of the parade. There
are other smarter shops in Jeddah that sell the same merchandise - for their
pre-cleaning and more elegant surroundings expect to pay double! The Macarona Souq (O4) on the northbound carriageway of Macarona Street,
after the Al Rajhi bank, (opposite
Lebanese Fruit Juice on the other side of the road),
is where to go for the best choice in dress fabric, threads and general
haberdashery. Some of the fabric
shops are tremendous value with everything SR10 a metre and not just grotty
polyester but a wide selection of good quality linens, cottons, voiles, satins
- even velvet. Also available are
cosmetics, perfumes, shoes and a good lingerie shop.
Unless you are a whiz with the sewing machine you will need to find a
tailor - personal recommendation is the best way to find a good one who will
either copy an existing piece of clothing or construct something from scratch,
the only limits being his talents and your imagination.
The Petromin Souq is not as far south as the Junk Souq, but don't go in a local taxi unless you are absolutely
certain of its location. It is a
vast collection of units in open warehouses with textiles, furniture, luggage,
household goods and clothing. Textiles for curtains and upholstery are an
absolute bargain at truly incredible prices - SR10-15 per metre that would
cost SR100+ back home. Set
aside a good couple of hours unless you know exactly what you are going for
and where to find it. The market
doesn't open until 11am and then is open all day (apart from prayer times)
until around 10pm. The Philipino Souq (L7) is known as Saudia Market by Philipinos and its official name is Khalidia! Whatever it's called, it's on Prince Abdullah Street, west of
Prince Sultan and north of Saudia City and it is the place for well-known brands of clothes and sports shoes that
they promise are the real thing but cost less than the price you would expect.
Sounds too good to be true but they look OK!
It's also great for luggage, watches and handbags. The Syrian Souq (L1) on the northbound carriageway of Prince Mitab 'Petromin'
Street and south of Tahlia Street is good for Filipino fashions, pots and pans
and, apparently, made to measure curtains in 24 hours! The Tent Souq (L4) is also known as 'Old Mahmood Saeed' on the
Northbound carriageway of Sitteen
Street near the Bicycle Roundabout - it does not sell tents.
A labyrinth of mostly open-air shops selling textiles, clothing,
furniture, toys, carpets, gold and jewellery, it gets its name from its roof -
made of tents! To confuse things there is the
unofficial Tent Souq (N3) on Tahlia Street, eastbound, just after the junction
with Macarona Street, which has much more claim to the title selling, as it
does, tents! Beautiful may not be
quite the right word but they are handmade, sturdy canvas and made-to-measure
from pup size to a marquee fit for a wedding.
You can choose your choice of pattern from the rolls of canvas on
display - big bold red and white stripes has certain appeal!
They will also handmake 2ft long and 1/2 inch in diameter steel tent
'pegs' (and a denim bag to carry them in!) that look strong enough to hold a
tent fast in a hurricane! |