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Are You New

This is for those that have completed the Survival Guide with distinction ie they have a residency permit in their passport. 'Mabruk' as they say here - that's 'congratulations' if it isn't immediately obvious, which to some I suppose it might not be.  In fact, this may be the first time you've been congratulated, as friends and family that have no knowledge of Saudi Arabia, other than what they have read in Western papers, may feel you have lost your marbles.  You haven't.  You are merely exercising your right to explore the world and if you are just starting out on the expat trail, welcome to what can be a wonderful life.  If you are already a seasoned plodder, your time here will be another goodie to build up your ‘experiences’ tally.

 

Your First Few Days  

You need to find supermarkets, doctors, dentists, schools and, well, shops.  Do they even have them here?  My first suggestion is that you get yourself a map.  The pullout map in the back of Jeddah Today should do the job but if you fancy something a bit more detailed then you need the Jeddah Tourist Map.   Difficult to get hold of, of course, if you don't know your way around, but stop at any large supermarket that you pass and it should be able to sell you one.   

Getting your bearings can take longer in Jeddah than in other cities for no easily definable reason.  It could be that the assumption that north is inland, sends one's internal compass awry.  The lack of a consistent set of street names may also hinder progress - Palestine Street is also signposted Felesteen and Tahlia Street's correct name is Prince Muhammed bin Abdul Aziz Street while Prince Fahd Street is also known as Sitteen Street - three examples of many instances. 

For women, not being able to drive may make it more difficult to commit the layout of the city to memory, but with the map and the addresses in the White Pages at the back of Jeddah Today, both drivers and non-drivers should be zipping around the place in no time. 

In alphabetical order then, here are the most important things for you to know how to find, and things you need to know: 

Dentists                       

Dentists are in that unenviable position of not being entirely trusted.  The sound of a drill accompanied by a pair of eyes peering maniacally, sorry, intently over a mask is unnerving wouldn't you say?  And is any patient ever wholly convinced that what the dentist is doing is actually necessary?  Naturally, if they relieve immense pain without causing any, they are heroes and recommended to everybody.  So, find a recommended hero.  If you can't do that, make an appointment with one you like the name of (see under Medical Services in Jeddah Today), go for a checkup and see how you like him/her.  Be aware that many of the hospitals also have in-house dental clinics so perhaps check out one while you're checking out the other - see the Hospital Guide.

Doctors                        

There is a prevalence for cutting out the middleman (in Britain, the GP) and self-referring to a specialist - there is one for every hour of every day of the week here, but there are GPs as well.  Word of mouth recommendations are usually the best, but bear in mind that a hypochondriac's favourite doc may be one that has a tendency to over-prescribe so use your judgement.  Some compounds are affiliated with a particular hospital eg Arabian Homes and Lotus IV with Ghassan N Pharoan (GNP).  Try to get a recommendation but failing that take a tour of some of the bigger private hospitals, including Erfan and Bagedo, Soliman Fakeeh, Saudi-German, New Jeddah Clinic, Dr Baksh and GNP to see which you are most comfortable with.  See the Hospital Guide for more information. 

Although it will soon be law in Saudi Arabia that all employers must provide health insurance for their staff, as yet there is no such legislation and only Saudi nationals are eligible for free treatment.  Hospital care is expensive - SR10,000 to SR20,000 for a broken leg or ribs, up to SR50,000 for a heart attack.  Most companies have some sort of cover for their staff and in some cases dependents as part of the remuneration package.  If there is no formal plan then it may well be in the company's interests to talk to one of the health insurers now operating in the Kingdom such as BUPA, Mednet or NCCI.  It is also possible to arrange corporate cover with one of the leading hospitals. 

If no company scheme is in place then the options for an individual are: a contract with a local hospital; an international health plan such as BUPA or PPP; or cover through a local insurer.  It is best to stick to companies affiliated with well-known international insurance operations - and always be careful to check the limits of the plan or policy and any of those tricky little exclusions. 

Embassies and Consulates             

It is highly advisable that you register with your Consulate in Jeddah, or your Embassy in Riyadh, if your country is not represented here.  Assistance, should you need it, can be offered more easily and, occasionally, they like to entertain their countries' nationals, so they need to know you are in the Kingdom.  Telephone and fax numbers for all Embassies and Consulates can be found in the General Information section. 

Insurance                     

Health Insurance has been mentioned above and you will probably already have made arrangements for any property and possessions left at home while you are away.  Now that you are here you need to consider Car and Contents Insurance.   

Car Insurance 

There is no legal requirement to insure a car in Saudi Arabia and as a result it is estimated that only 20% of the cars on the road are insured.  You would be well advised to take out insurance on your vehicle if you own it, or confirm that your company has insured you if you are driving a company vehicle.   

If you are involved in an accident: 

-                      do not move your car until the police arrive

-                      do not leave the scene

-                      remain calm

 When the traffic policeman arrives at the scene of the accident, he will assess the situation and apportion blame, either at the scene or after all parties involved have transferred to the nearest police station.  Blame is either 100% one party's fault or divided 50/50 or an uneven percentage depending on the circumstances.  As the blame is apportioned, so will the persons or insurers have to pay.  Each driver involved in the accident will receive a special form from the policeman - without this, insurance cannot be claimed and repairs cannot be carried out. 

If you are involved in an accident in which another person is injured, be aware that you may have to wait in jail while fault is decided.  Blood money for injuries caused can be as high as SR100,000 but this can be covered by insurance.  Ensure that you carry company contact numbers at all times so that you can inform your sponsor and employer should the worst happen

Contents Insurance 

If you live in furnished accommodation, confirm with your landlord or compound owner whether the contents of the villa or apartment where you live are covered - it should be made clear in your lease.  If the company provides the furniture, then check with them.  Your personal effects are your responsibility and you should insure them as you would anywhere else in the world.  

Schools                                   

There are numerous schools in Jeddah for expatriate children, including American, Bangladeshi, British, French, German, Indian, Italian, Pakistani and Philipino - an English-speaking curriculum is followed at the British International School (known as The Continental School), Jeddah Prep and Grammar School, the Saudi Arabian International School (American), the Bangladesh School and the Indian School.  All have modern campuses with good facilities and offer education from nursery age to 16, in the case of Jeddah Prep and, recently, 18 at the Continental School.  All expatriate education is private and can cost up to SR27,500 per annum. 

Contact Details:

British International School +966 2 699 0019

Jeddah Prep and Grammar School +966 2 654 2354

Shopping Centres

These are covered in much greater detail in the relevant section, but rest assured - you can get pretty much everything here - and a whole pile of stuff you haven't thought of as well. 

Supermarkets               

There are numerous supermarkets of varying standards - the big ones include Al Raya, Azizia Panda, Bin Dawood, Danube, Marhaba, Sarawat, Sawary, Star and Watani.  Virtually all of the larger supermarkets are open 24 hours a day, excluding prayer time and are very well-stocked with little unavailable except perhaps for the ready-meal lines you may be used to.  Prices are two-tiered - imported vegetables can be as much as four times the local equivalent but, on the whole, the difference is only the same as premium and own brands at home.  You'll find that people have their shop preferences just as they do elsewhere.  As yet only one, Sawary, operates a loyalty scheme, which offers 5% discount. 

 

For the Trailing Spouse … 

What follows are the two things that women may find the most difficult to adjust to.  I apologise for assuming that the trailing spouse is a female, but in this part of the world, it is highly likely!   

The Abaya       

Technically, you don't have to wear this all-covering garment, as it is only followers of Islam that are bound by its rules.  However, as a mark of respect to your host country it is only courteous to follow local customs.  At the risk of sounding pompous, if you were visiting a friend's house you would not go out of your way to offend them while you were in their company, would you?  Don't even start with the 'my friend lets me do what I like …' - go and stay with them if covering up seems too much.  But we're forgetting the good points - you're rushing out the door but mortified as the baby has plastered porridge all over your shoulders, there are cat hairs all over your black trousers and your pre-schooler thought he'd wipe his painty hands on your t-shirt as it was easier than washing them.  No time to change - no need to change.  Your abaya covers everything, as it should!  You can buy them pretty much everywhere - the cheapest anyone that I know has paid for one is SR40 - but it only lasted a year.  A word of advice - buy one that either has poppers down the front, or has a velcro fastening on one shoulder.  The long, flowing, unsecured ones can feel very elegant but are a nuisance to keep closed.  Why not splash out and have a 'serviceable' one for the day and a floaty-light one for evening!  Take the offer of the 'free' headscarf and keep it in your bag (they fold up very neatly) as occasionally you will be asked to cover your head. 

Driving             

You can't.  And after a week here you won't want to - unless you're the sort of thrill-seeker girl whose adrenaline merely flickers on a roller-coaster, thinks stock car racing (driving, not watching) is only as exciting as a pedal car, and that you'd do a much better job than Michael Schumacher if only you had the chance.  Instead, wallow in the luxury of never having to find a parking space and relish the opportunities for back-seat driving, without ever being on the receiving end.  You can also close your eyes as a passenger, should you feel the urge, without the risk of an accident. 

If you live on one of the larger compounds then there will probably be cars and drivers that you can book for when you need them, or shopping buses running on a schedule to alternating destinations .  If you are living in a private villa you can experiment with street limousines until you find one you like and trust - many of these guys have pagers and concentrate on servicing a small client list.  Or employ a driver.  This may be provided as a 'perk' through your husband's employer or you can hire on demand or full-time.  (See 'Automobile Rental' in the White Pages of Jeddah Today)

*   *   *   *   *   *   * 

So - these are the basics to guide you through your first few days and weeks in Jeddah - before you move onto the big stuff like exploring locally as well as the wide blue yonder.  In the meantime, be prepared for the city to exceed many of your expectations yet fall short of others; for huge waves of homesickness yet a giddy sense of freedom; most of all, give it time to feel like home.  Most expats long to go back to their 'mother countries' at some point but are then pleasantly surprised when their adopted home has a stronger pull at the end of that first holiday.   

So many times you will hear the expression that life is what you make it, and that was never more applicable than to the life of an expat in Saudi Arabia.  For those unable or unwilling to adapt, it can be difficult.  Even those who admit a fondness for the place would agree that there are days when they want to pack it all in and go.  But these feelings affect every human being at some point or other in their lives, wherever they may be.  Here you can look at the blue sky, the swimming pool, think of the long lazy Friday afternoons at the beach … the feelings will pass!

If you have any further questions about life in Jeddah as a wife and mother, please feel free to email.

 

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