This page will detail what you need to do if you've never bought a bike before.  It will cover registration, insurance, and getting a motorcycle license. 
General Riding Tips
1.   ALWAYS wear protective gear.  Food for thought: my brother's 7MPH spill in the parking lot left a huge gash in his Kevlar riding gloves. Just imagine if it was his hand.  No matter how slow you are going, full protective gear is a must (unless you mind road rash or are Superman).  By full protective gear, I mean at the minimum a quality helmet, armored or leather jacket, jeans, boots and gloves.  Shorts, t-shirts, sneakers, etc. are unacceptable as far as I am concerned.   I have seen too many road rash pics not to wear that.  Anti-gearists complain, citing such things as:
    Dorkiness-  Don't worry, you won't look dorky when you walk away from a crash with only a couple bruises.  The gear actually looks cool, sort of the Darth Vader look.
    Price-  It's not expensive at all compared to a hospital stay.  
    Comfort-  The jacket and full helmet are actually more comfortable, as the wind whacking against you is dramatically cut down.  It can get kind of hot sitting at a stoplight in summer, but once moving the vents do wonders.  Also, gloves aren't all that uncomfortable- you never really notice them getting hot.  I recently read that on a hot day, exposed skin is the worst thing to have.  The hot air flowing over your skin will dry it and and "mummify" it.  I wear a very heavy Joe Rocket "Blaster" leather jacket- it's great in the winter and a lot better than you'd think in the summer.   If out riding for the sake of riding, I wear my Joe Rocket leather Speedmaster pants and Sidi Strada boots as well.  

2.  Don't start on a bike that you wouldn't mind dropping.  Believe me, I am NOT lying when I say that everybody drops their first bike.  I'm sure there are maybe one or two He-Man's who haven't, but I've dropped mine three times.  Luckily the previous owner installed an engine guard.  The best bet is to start with the cheapest thing you can, like my $700 CB650.  With my Duc, I've been lucky.   It's also imperative that you get a bike you can pick up, cause nobody's going to cut you slack if you drop it at a stoplight during rush hour and can't move it. 

3.  Practice, practice, practice.  Don't just assume you know everything about riding, because you don't.  Nobody does, and anybody can benefit from more practice.  I doubt I will ever realize my full potential on a motorcycle.  They always say that the slowest part of the bike is what's sitting on top.

4.  Stay focused.  Remember, you are on a precision machine, and there is no time to gawk at hot chicks in tight shorts jogging on the side of the road (for example).  The margin of error on a motorcycle is much smaller.  Constant attention to speed, surroundings, and other motorists is required.  Never assume that anyone will do anything.  Turn signals lie and people are unpredictable.  Imagine that everybody is out to get you, and don't let your attention lapse for a second.  In other words, be ready for anything!

5.  The other half to that equation is to stay calm.  Don't get into a duel with another motorist, because believe me, the bike won't win.  You've never seen rude or inconsiderate until you've been in traffic on a motorcycle.  You HAVE to expect it, and not let it bother you.  Just do what you're going to do and stay cool.

6.  Take a safety course.  Probably the best way to become a skilled and attentive rider is to take a
Motorcycle Safety Foundation course.  The classes are fairly cheap and you learn a lot.  In most states, you can even use the course to wave the skills test for getting your license!  At the very least pick up  a riding book, such as David Hough's "Proficient Motorcycling".  It is an excellent resource.
Registration/Insurance
Before you even buy a bike, consider insurance cost.  It's true insurance is generally cheaper on a motorcycle, but some models have been red-flagged as death traps and insured accordingly.  If the extra money doesn't bother you, no problem, but if it does, alittle creativity is in order.  This means finding a bike with serious speed potential but that hasn't been red-flagged.  Good examples include Kawasaki EX500's (before they were called the Ninja 500, as the mere mention of the "Ninja" jacks rates up by at least 30%.  My bro lucked out, as his insurance was $300 cheaper because of the lack of the "Ninja" moniker), Suzuki Bandits, or pretty much any half-faired or unfaired bike.  If it's got full fairing, be ready to pay.  Unfaired and full-faired bikes are usually built on the same platform and only minor differences exist.  Thus, the same parts to hop up a Suzuki GSX may work on a Bandit, etc.  Many companies sell full fairing retrofit kits, and millions of engine hop-up parts are available for all kinds of bikes.  It takes some research to find out what exactly will work, but the less you spend on insurance, the more you can spend on your bike.  Also, don't expect an insurance company to know about your off-brand bike.  For example, progressive didn't have a category for an '81 CB650, so the rate was based off of CC's only, and they assumed it was a race bike when in relaity it is quite slow.  As a comparison, my '98 Ducati Monster 750 was $79 CHEAPER to insure.  Go figure.

From the day you buy the bike, you have 14 days to register.  I don't know how to get  a temp plate from a private party sale, as I bought my bike from a dealer, but the DMV should tell you what to do.  Also, you must make sure that you get the title when you buy the bike from a private party.  Once you do that, you go to DMV and they do something (I'm not sure what, but it costs about $50).  I bought my bike from the dealer, so they had me sign the title and they mailed it to DMV, who will mail it to me (it takes a LONG time). 
  
---You don't need the title to register after buying from a dealer, as you will have a dealer's bill of sale. 
                I'm not sure if you need it to register after buying from a private party---

As far as the actual insuring goes, start by getting quotes.  Some people won't even insure motorcycles, and others are way expensive.  The cheapest quote I got was on the Progressive website, but I went with one of their local reps just to make sure that I would be able to talk to someone in case of problems.  Independent agents are more expensive, but you're not talking to an automated line or computer.. 
  ---Note:  it is not necessary to have a motorcycle license to get insurance, but it is required to ride on city streets----
Once you've set up the insurance, take the card down to DMV (make sure it is stamped by the agent) along with the dealer's bill of sale (or the title, etc.) and register the bike.  If it's been more than 14 days since you bought it, you will be required to fill out an "Affidavit of Non-Moving" that states you haven't been driving without a temp plate.  You pay the various fees and are on your way.  It's pretty easy, except it takes forever!  (Note-this is for Nevada, other states may vary)

I was told by Nevada DMV that the bike you take the skills test on must be registered and insured, but found out that since the test isn't on public streets that it doesn't need to be registered or insured.  I could have saved at least two weeks had I known that, as I waited until it was registered to worry about the license.
Licensing
  
---Note:  If you take a Motorcycle Safety Foundation course, the written and skills test in most states can be waived---
The first step in the licensing process is the written test.  In Nevada, you simply show up at DMV and fill out a license application (even if you're only going for an endorsement on your normal license).  Then you hand that to them, take a vision test and walk in and take the written test.  (The test is pretty easy- if you've read their motorcycle manual, which should be available on your state's DMV website.  Make sure you pay attention to statistics, definitions, and traffic laws (specifically DUI laws))  If you pass, they give you a number to call to set up your skills test.  The skills test outline on Nevada's DMV site was wrong, and I practiced wrong.  Therefore, I am going to tell you exactly what I had to do.  I'm pretty sure that a majority of the states use a standardized test that isn't very different.  NOTE:  Be sure that you have complete control of the cycle before you show up for the test.  The instructor will stop the test as soon as you drop the bike or show lack of control. 
This is the course.  The yellow and white lines are painted on the ground.  The red writing and lines are added in for clarification.  All numbers are measurements in feet.  The easiest thing to do is find an empty parking lot, draw the course in chalk, and practice.  Believe me, the practice is well worth it.  My bro failed his first test because he hadn't practiced enough.
The first thing they ask you to do is park your bike at the Setup/Instruction point.  The instructor will tell you all about the first phase of the test, and tell you to go to the starting point.  You drive from the Setup point to the start of the Acceleration zone (the far right when looking at the picture).  From there, you will accelerate to between 12-18 MPH by the time you reach the start of the yellow box (you don't have to shift).  In the yellow box, you will cruise at whatever speed between 12-18 you chose (they are looking for the ability to maintain speed, so don't adjust).  When your tire reaches the end of the yellow box (timing zone), you will come to a slow, controlled stop at the white line (20 feet).
After you have come to the stop, you will make a sharp u-turn (there's about 25' to make it in) and proceed back towards where you started.  As you come to the end, you must go through the tight L-shape as fast as possible without clipping the lines.  Believe me, you don't want to bomb through it, just go at a controlled rate.  After that, you continue back to the Instruction point.
The next portion tests your turning abilities.  After the instructor has told you what to do, you will drive over to the T-shape line on the right side (looking at the picture).  You will start from a stop and accelerate as FAST as you can SAFELY go between the lines.  Points are taken off for going to slow or clipping the lines.  After you have made a left turn, you will come to a stop at the opposite T.  Make a u-turn and line up on the T facing where you came from.  You then must do the same thing in the opposite direction.  It's realley very simple, just practice
If you can ace the first two portions, you should be in good shape for the emergency maneuvers portion.  This is where it gets hard, and the practice of swerving and emergency braking really comes in handy.
The instructor will explain the emergency steps and you will proceed to the red dot, where you started from before.  You also accelerate and coast the same as you did before, only you don't know what to do when you get to the end of the timing zone.  There is a little T-shaped light at the 45' mark on the course.  You must look at that for your directions.  Most generally, the first run is a red light, indicating that you must panic stop.  Just slam on both brakes as safely as you can.  This is why you must practice panic stops, because you need to know your limit and the bike's.  You don't want to crash, because then the test is immediately over.  A good mark is in the 12-20 foot range. 
They'll do more than four runs, so one of the maneuevers will be a double, probably the braking.  My brother and I both got two emergency stops.  If it's an amber light on the right you must swerve right.  If you don't know how to effectively swerve, it's probably a safe bet that you're not ready for the test.  The goal of the swerve is to get as far around the white line (which goes to 8' on either side of the yellow line) as possible.  It's harder than it looks, which is why you should have a friend randomly signal stop, left, or right so you can get a feel for it.  Practice makes perfect.   
If it's a left amber light, go left.  You don't need to straighten out by the end of the course, but you do have to stop.  The key is to swerve as hard as possible, don't break until after the white line (points are deducted) and come to a controlled stop.  There's generally going to be only one swerve in each direction, but the instructor may go as high as six random events.  You have to be ready for anything. 
I hope all this info has helped, and happy and safe riding!  Go back to the Ducati Suite, or browse around here!
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